Yea. Have to save a little bit, then I'll pick up the radium rail/damper kit and put an aftermarket regulator on. Maybe I'll hold out for the new damper they're supposed to be coming out with.

 

I wonder if this is my issue. Have an Evo 3 that was running fine but now that we upgraded to a walbro 416 pump and AEM regulator it goes lean at 2000 or so rpm. It's running ECM Link and the 02 feedback wizard is suggesting adding 20% fuel in that area to cleans it up. It seems like a bandaid fix considering the car was running ok before, with well scaled injector size/latencies.

 

I'll take the second damper if you had no use for it Dave.
I'll drill and tap it into my AEM rail.

 

With the aftermarket regulator, it definitely sounds like you issue, and a damper will help. Especially since it was fine before, and all you changed was the regulator, and the pump. But the pump wouldn't cause a lean spot.

 

I know this thread is basically solved, but I will add that this solution brings basically most of the fuel control back in that 2250-3000 RPM range. I can vouch that a Marren Fuel Pulsation Damper does fit on an AEM rail when you weld a 3/8 NPT male fitting (to mate with the Marren) flush between injectors 2 and 3 (we chopped an aluminum union in half/make sure it's clocked so the Schrader valve is at the 12 o'clock when tight).

Without touching the VE table/or really anything else (EVO 9/SD/ID2000's/Aeromotive FPR (small)/PUMP 93!) the AFRs went pig rich in this area when they were 18's before. I did NOT like changing the MAF COMP or VE tables to something in-humane (which really doesn't work that well anyways) in this area so this thread was some motivation. I would highly recommend this modification.

The only issue I see is ethanol compatibility/longevity but since this is a pump 93 vehicle, it should be OK.

 

I have now tried the new Radium manifold referenced damper, and it works too. Its not obviously better than the relabeled Bosch that they sell, but its a step in the right direction for the design of a better damper.

 

mrfred,

Good info and I know what I will be buying for both of my cars soon.

This actually makes me mad with all the IDAing and KPITing and hex editing and such from the past and a solution comes about to a recent problem that's purely mechanical.

Are you mounting this new version on the rail? I would highly recommend it if possible--unless it is strong enough to act as like a "capacitor" for the fuel flow before the rail. In all sense, one would be needed after the rail too I guess for true isolation.

The center of the rail just attacks the issue from the most even point--and it seems to work pretty well!

 

Its still interfacing at a Tee before the rail. I wanted to use the Radium rail, but it was not set up for standard fuel entry/exit. Hoping I can convince them to redesign their rail to offer a better solution.

 

^ this comment

"I wanted to use the Radium rail, but it was not set up for standard fuel entry/exit. Hoping I can convince them to redesign their rail to offer a better solution."

Is my thinking exactly.

 

When you say standard fuel entry/exit what do you mean by that?I emailed Jim at Weldon racing pumps and he said a lot of his top guys use a dampener but i definitely like Radium's rail with said dampener bang in the middle

 

I realize now that it is possible to have standard location entry exit for the fuel, but for whatever reason, the rail entrance and the center port are ORB, but the rail exit is NPT. So different fittings are needed at each end, and the damper with -8 ORB would need to be used. Another issue I had is that there is no gauge port (typically 1/8" NPT) on the rail. When I asked if they could add it, they said that they would consider it.

 

I can't seem to dial my injectors in properly on 93.
Idling/cruising are spot on, but as soon as I go WOT, I feel like I am all over the place, it is not smooth.

I will get tuned by a professional, although in the meantime I just wanted to mess around Can I get some pointers and see what I am doing wrong

 

What do your AFR's do? Is your timing curve smooth? Is your boost curve smooth, no big ramps in wgdc?

 

Its pretty easy to kill a motor just messing around with the injector settings. FIC2150s and ID2000s (same injector) are more challenging to tune than the average injector as well, and on SD, its even more tricky. Not really any quick pointers I can give out. There's plenty that you can read though that can point you in the correct direction. However, my thought is that it would be safer to stay off boost and wait for the professional tune.

 

Here is an interesting article that brought this thread to mind:

http://www.adaptronic.com.au/fuel-pr...-a-difference/