Notices
ECU Flash

Factory ECU Dual Pump Control

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jan 4, 2012, 11:02 PM
  #91  
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (50)
 
mrfred's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
Posts: 9,675
Received 128 Likes on 96 Posts
Originally Posted by 03whitegsr
If you are talking about the bit Acamus pointed out and the code chunk I went over, it doesn't really make sense as the #2 relay. Could be EVAP related?

It is in the main CAS interrupt driven routine instead of the main loop, which seemed kind of odd to be there if it was the fuel pump change over. Doesn't seem like it would really need to be that real time to me.



The corresponding routine in 96530006 is at 205AC and I have it marked as an unknown solenoid. Table is located at 0x4568 and axis is 0x6576, should anybody be interested in testing.

When you say bit.7, are you talking bit.1 being the lowest? It's looking for 0x40, which isn't that bit.6 if you go by bit.0 being the lowest? Isn't that the typical method used? Or is this just matter of preference?

Anybody got any good ways to simulate the crank and cam signals with proper phasing? I have some stuff to build up a test bench and being able to run the ECU on the bench would make it pretty easy to make sense of this stuff as otherwise I have no way to test anything out. I've been thinking about using an Arduino to kick out the two signals?
I prefer to enumerate the bits using #1 as the lowest bit, but it seems like most of the world starts at #0 as the lowest bit, so that's the base that I use for my posts on EvoM. The terminology I use is that when I write bit.X, bit.0 is the lowest bit, and when I write bitX, bit1 is the lowest bit.

Before I left town for work this week, I had a quick opportunity to log FFFF6A0C bit.6 during startup and idle, and the status of that bit matched perfectly with what relay #3 was doing, so I'm very confident that its the correct bit. I just need to verify with probably 10 seconds of actual driving of my car.
Old Jan 5, 2012, 07:44 AM
  #92  
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
 
03whitegsr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Utah
Posts: 4,001
Received 14 Likes on 12 Posts
Acree, yeah I've used Matlab quite a bit. Didn't really think of using the speaker as an output though.

MRFred, I think the mistake I made before is I logged the car and had a voltmeter on relay #3 as well. However, I only did it with it sitting idling and free reving and I never got a chance to drive it around with the voltmeter on. I could see how free reving it would have easily lead me astray.

It would be good to nail both fuel pump relays down to a known output on the microcontroller, if for nothing else then just getting a good idea of what outputs are still left.
Old Jan 5, 2012, 01:35 PM
  #93  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (8)
 
Acree's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Dallas
Posts: 787
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I've done quite a bit of signal processing and analysis in matlab for my classes and work. I'll graduate this May with a BSEE. I wouldn't mind doing some kind of collaboration with you and code part of the project as this is part of the ECU I'm definitely interested in nailing down.

-Acree
Old Jan 6, 2012, 07:08 PM
  #94  
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (50)
 
mrfred's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
Posts: 9,675
Received 128 Likes on 96 Posts
Originally Posted by mrfred
...

Before I left town for work this week, I had a quick opportunity to log FFFF6A0C bit.6 during startup and idle, and the status of that bit matched perfectly with what relay #3 was doing, so I'm very confident that its the correct bit. I just need to verify with probably 10 seconds of actual driving of my car.
Made some tweaks to the high voltage load table this evening, and everything correlates perfectly. Nice having this worked out - perfect fuel pressure control with the stock FPR and my fuel pump rewire.

03whitegsr, I think you had asked about relay #2. That's FFFF6A0C bit.7.
Old Aug 28, 2013, 04:52 PM
  #95  
Newbie
iTrader: (3)
 
CT9Asphixyation's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Grand Junction, CO
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Back from the dead. Anybody get this completely figured out? I'll be purchasing a squash double pumper in a couple months and I'd prefer the ecu to control the second pump rather than a hobbs switch.
Old Aug 28, 2013, 05:12 PM
  #96  
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
 
211Ratsbud's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Watertown, NY
Posts: 4,279
Received 41 Likes on 40 Posts
Why not control both pumps in parallel through the factory resistor set up? Ie both at low voltage, both at high voltage. The load switch tables have been figured out I believe for everything
Old Aug 28, 2013, 05:15 PM
  #97  
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
 
211Ratsbud's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Watertown, NY
Posts: 4,279
Received 41 Likes on 40 Posts
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh....php?p=9926421
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mrfred
Evo Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain
377
Jan 20, 2022 01:02 PM
mrfred
Vendor Service / Parts / Tuning Review
68
Jul 13, 2017 11:22 AM
Carloverx
Evo Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain
14
Dec 22, 2011 01:00 PM
rhyzin
Lancer Engine Tech
7
Aug 15, 2006 02:37 PM



Quick Reply: Factory ECU Dual Pump Control



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 10:27 AM.