Can't wait for one to come to DB's shop and get tuned WITH the MAF, then do the SD conversion and see what gains were made

 

i was thinking of doing the sd conversion on my car. now that ive seen more results on it .. Its a definite thing..

great job br...

This is some awesome power especially coming from the heart-breaker dyno lol

 

DJ, something tells me that I'll be getting out of your way before long

 

Rich and David thank you for answering my questions. Now that you explained the low RPM load stutter then I'm in the clear since even when I do cruise around tune I usually high in the RPM3-4k.

Dave so I guess when I'm ready I will just ask Jimmy@The Shop CT to pull the head and inspect the walls. I'm leaning towards your new 2.1L setup do you think I should just have Jimmy order the upgrade parts and have him do the build or do you suggest mailing my block?

Thanks and sorry to hijack thread you can PM it back to me. Great job again can't wait to have Junior do this for me

 

I would for sure have us build the 2.1 if that is the route you are taking. It's not an easy drop in affair.

I would also guess one of these guys working with the stock ECU constantly will figure out why there is the low rpm studder.

 

Thanks Dave. Lets hope that someone figures out the studder

 

Now that you mention this I've noticed that these cars seem to like near stock values for the 0-60 load and 0-2500 rpm spots. Probably some other tables in play with the stock ecu but i can't say that for the AEM.

 

I just noticed that the power is still climbing where the dyno ends at 7500, particularly in 4th gear. That's pretty amazing. I'll be interested to see how the boost curve looks when I get the car back. I was worried about my 1G BOV (with leak-stop kit) not holding up to 30 psi, but I guess it did.

As far as the parts on the car, here is a more complete list of the modifications affecting power:

BR 2.0 (drop-in rods/pistons at 15K miles)
BR stg 3 head w/BF 272s
BR ported FP-Red (64mm compressor housing)
BR Race FMIC with upper and lower piping
BR ported stock IM
BR 2-bend 3" intake pipe w/K&N cone filter
BR 65mm TB
BR ported stock exhaust manifold (Swain coated)
BR quiet TBE (bullet muffler and Magnaflow, coated DP)
FIC 1050cc injectors (mrfred scaling and latencies were dead-on)
DSM 1G BOV w/Dejon Tool leak stop kit
Walbro in-tank pump (single)
Helix 02 housing (Swain coated)
HKS DLI II
Blitz SBC id3 EBC
96530006 EDM ECU running tephra v5.1 and jcsbanks SD mods (formerly 96420008)
AEM 3.5 bar MAP sensor
GM AIT sensor

The car has an Aquamist HFS-5 kit on it too, but I haven't used it for the past year.

As far as the condition of my short block prior to this build, the car saw about 25-30 track days, including 3 Redline Time Attacks and around 50 autocross runs over 2 SCCA seasons. I did change the oil after every track weekend though.

Thanks again everyone. I can't wait to get the car back. It was the last thing I thought about when I went to sleep and the first thing I thought about when I woke up

 

Rich few question are you running the BOV VTA now?
And do you sometimes daily drive the car? I only ask because there was a post about driving condition when the motor is cold. I ask only because I garage park my car and I start the car, back the car out, close the garage and go. But I don't even hit boost for about 2 miles by that time, the car is warm. I'm just trying to fingure out if SD is for me.

 

Rich that is an awesome build you put together! Dave great job on the tune!

 

I can't speak for the new setup, but with my Comp 280s the cold start and fuel trims were just as good as with the MAF. I did reflash the car over 20x though to dial in the SD, plus I had the benefit of a lot of maps with the 96530006 that I didn't have the XML for with my previous native ROM. Short answer: cold start should be fine once the tune is dialed in on the street. It does take time though. My car is not a trailer queen. It is driven on the street on weekends.

I do still recirc the BOV.

 

Aww, I was hoping you were running Tephra's 96530706 v7 patch with the BIG fuel/timing maps Next time.

 

Nice build! Finally some solid dyno results on speed density, looks promising except for the 2500rpm stutter. This is a known problem that's being worked on, curious that you see the same thing on AEM cars david.

Was the stock MAF in place for this tune, or was it completely gone & different intake setup on the car? Would be curious to see what would happen with MAF on/off the car on a few back-to-back pulls, this would be the best way to tell if the MAF is an actual restriction yet at this power level. It almost has to be, but to what extent is yet to be really discovered and dyno proven AFAIK (david prolly has some numbers in the back of his mind but with switching to AEM to try this before there's some serious x-factors that are now eliminated!).

31psi on pump gas, 450whp...redonk.

 

The boost on your car was excellent actually. The dyno sheet in front of me shows peak of 31.6 and it's nearly flat to 7500 rpm, without going to the dyno computer I'd say it has 29 psi at 7500, that is very good.

The MAF was completely removed for the tuning.

It's high 40's here right now. Because of the questions on the cold start I just grabbed Rich's keys and started his car. Fired right up, idled at about 900 rpm then caught and went up to 1400 where it should have been. Idles good, AFR's look good for cold start, about 12.5:1. Rev'd nice, I didn't go drive it but it seems very good.

BTW, in the XML file you sent me Rich the Idle control look up table is incorrect. I wanted to modify it but didn't want to mess with that XML file you sent me. Can you view that table in your rom?

 

Time for speed density on project white ?