564 whp - Stock Block, Head and MAF/ECU - Dyno or No Dyno !
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564 whp - Stock Block, Head and MAF/ECU - Dyno or No Dyno !
I am having a blast at my new dyno home up in Milford, CT - Pruven Performance and I greatly appreciate thier assistance and cooperation with my recession busting winter specials which I have rolled out to aide my Evolution brothers get more accomplished with their winter build ups on a tight budget. In any event onto the dyno news
This car was a fully stock long block (except for HKS 272 cams)
Stock ecu and stock maf
Pump gas - 93 octane with SMC alcohol injection
29 psi
Power mods
Buschur GT35 HTA 60mm turbo - fast spooling - tubuar manifold
Injen intake and fmic pipe
Buschur Race FMIC
Hallman MBC
Tial 44 w/g
Walbro fuel pump
1,000 p/t injectors
HKS exhuast
Stock ecu tuned by Dyno Flash
I will have a video up of the car shortly - it ran really good almost like a stock car - great driveability and very smooth idle etc. We all werre jealous and said that we would all love a car like this to daily drive.
Although another 50 whp was on the table with the stock rods and pistons we were taking a conservative route and did not want to push the tune
I would have been more happy with a Aquamist alcohol kit with a fail safe on this kind of set up and recomended it to the customer
This car was a fully stock long block (except for HKS 272 cams)
Stock ecu and stock maf
Pump gas - 93 octane with SMC alcohol injection
29 psi
Power mods
Buschur GT35 HTA 60mm turbo - fast spooling - tubuar manifold
Injen intake and fmic pipe
Buschur Race FMIC
Hallman MBC
Tial 44 w/g
Walbro fuel pump
1,000 p/t injectors
HKS exhuast
Stock ecu tuned by Dyno Flash
I will have a video up of the car shortly - it ran really good almost like a stock car - great driveability and very smooth idle etc. We all werre jealous and said that we would all love a car like this to daily drive.
Although another 50 whp was on the table with the stock rods and pistons we were taking a conservative route and did not want to push the tune
I would have been more happy with a Aquamist alcohol kit with a fail safe on this kind of set up and recomended it to the customer
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Saftey is relative
As I suggested to this customer in my extensive disscussions on the subject, its like planning an investment
If you are an investor who wants a 30% annual return and invests in speculative investments you are going to make great money if things go well but if things go bad you may loose your entire investment. On the other hand investing in a 1% interest CD may be 100% safe buy you are going to earn less than the rate of inflation and CPI increase.
On a stock engine Evo you are now making more than double the power level that the car made stock. Obviously nothing is "safe" You can minimize risks of failure by trying to obtain the best gas available and always filling up at known and reputable gas stations and by trying to stay tuned into the way the car is running and dont boost it if somethiing does not feel right.
With all this said, I have tuned many stock internals engine Evos with around 550 whp which lasted for significant amounts of time with no problems. Certainly IMHO 550 is a safer level than 600 which is IMHO asking for trouble.
Of course making 550 on the stock bottom end entails more risk than running 240 whp on the same engine and the engine will not last as long or be as reliable with double the power. Most importantly the margin of saftey for bad gas etc is must lower with more power.
Al
As I suggested to this customer in my extensive disscussions on the subject, its like planning an investment
If you are an investor who wants a 30% annual return and invests in speculative investments you are going to make great money if things go well but if things go bad you may loose your entire investment. On the other hand investing in a 1% interest CD may be 100% safe buy you are going to earn less than the rate of inflation and CPI increase.
On a stock engine Evo you are now making more than double the power level that the car made stock. Obviously nothing is "safe" You can minimize risks of failure by trying to obtain the best gas available and always filling up at known and reputable gas stations and by trying to stay tuned into the way the car is running and dont boost it if somethiing does not feel right.
With all this said, I have tuned many stock internals engine Evos with around 550 whp which lasted for significant amounts of time with no problems. Certainly IMHO 550 is a safer level than 600 which is IMHO asking for trouble.
Of course making 550 on the stock bottom end entails more risk than running 240 whp on the same engine and the engine will not last as long or be as reliable with double the power. Most importantly the margin of saftey for bad gas etc is must lower with more power.
Al
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The more power you make the more stress on the parts and the less saftey margin is left to handle knock in the event of bad gas. Also metal parts can only last so long with "X" amount of power.
Here is the video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wWMghqEalTU
Here is the video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wWMghqEalTU
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cant wait for the video to finish getting processed!!
i have a similar setup with an ets hta35 kit and hks 272 cams on stock head and block. all the other stuff too, 1000cc inj, bigger intercooler and piping, hks exhaust etc...stock ecu stock maf but my question is would you recommend converting to SD since its pretty easy now on the stock ecu? im looking for similar numbers..mayb 50hp less for a lil more reliability but would it be worth it to convert? main reason would be cus im running a tial bov but alot of ppl tell me it should be fine without it. what do you think?
wish i was close to you so you could to all my tuning and maintenance on my evo : (
i have a similar setup with an ets hta35 kit and hks 272 cams on stock head and block. all the other stuff too, 1000cc inj, bigger intercooler and piping, hks exhaust etc...stock ecu stock maf but my question is would you recommend converting to SD since its pretty easy now on the stock ecu? im looking for similar numbers..mayb 50hp less for a lil more reliability but would it be worth it to convert? main reason would be cus im running a tial bov but alot of ppl tell me it should be fine without it. what do you think?
wish i was close to you so you could to all my tuning and maintenance on my evo : (
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cant wait for the video to finish getting processed!!
i have a similar setup with an ets hta35 kit and hks 272 cams on stock head and block. all the other stuff too, 1000cc inj, bigger intercooler and piping, hks exhaust etc...stock ecu stock maf but my question is would you recommend converting to SD since its pretty easy now on the stock ecu? im looking for similar numbers..mayb 50hp less for a lil more reliability but would it be worth it to convert? main reason would be cus im running a tial bov but alot of ppl tell me it should be fine without it. what do you think?
wish i was close to you so you could to all my tuning and maintenance on my evo : (
i have a similar setup with an ets hta35 kit and hks 272 cams on stock head and block. all the other stuff too, 1000cc inj, bigger intercooler and piping, hks exhaust etc...stock ecu stock maf but my question is would you recommend converting to SD since its pretty easy now on the stock ecu? im looking for similar numbers..mayb 50hp less for a lil more reliability but would it be worth it to convert? main reason would be cus im running a tial bov but alot of ppl tell me it should be fine without it. what do you think?
wish i was close to you so you could to all my tuning and maintenance on my evo : (
Whole SD may offer some benefits for more seriously modified vehicles with VTA BOV's and more radical cams and head work by allowing the car to function, in this case I dont think the car could drive or "feel" any better than it does.
SD is a great option but in most cases unless the MAF is a limiting factor in the power production you will not realize any benfits from going SD
Al