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FP Red + E85 + Stock Motor (cams)

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Old Aug 17, 2010, 05:48 PM
  #61  
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I'd say you got more then a million things to check.

Most shops get frustrated when people bring their cars in for tunes and they gotta fix like a million things on the car.

The most important thing to do before going to get tuned is go over the car with a fine tooth comb and check things like compression, boost leak, and fluids.
Old Aug 17, 2010, 05:52 PM
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Well, c'mon, it's not like I took them a mess.. My car just didn't make the power it should.. Could be as simple as an inefficient intercooler or the actuator arm that is defective like awddyno said.
Old Aug 18, 2010, 09:23 AM
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Whats going on man? If I were you,I would swap your fmic and definitely get a bigger intake. Its all about air flow man,you also need to boost leak test the car asap. That intercooler may not be efficient after 30psi,or 25psi for all you know. And yes a small intake would make your spool up come on late and would be putting a huge restriction on your numbers. Also,its a mustang dyno. There are a lot of factors here which could be affecting your numbers,you just need to take things one step at a time. First things first,boost leak test the car. If you find nothing,then swap your fmic out and get a new intake. NOTE: Have a couple buddies handy while your boost leak testing,have one friend sit in the car and hold the car WOT (obviously when the car is OFF) that way your throttle body blade is open for the air to pass through with ease,then have another guy with a bottle of soapy water spraying the **** out of your intercooler clamps,around your intake mani,etc etc. This way if there is a leak,its going to start bubbling up wherever the leak is coming from. And throw head studs in that motor ASAP,not the best idea to try making that power without those. Hope this helps!



-Frazier
Old Aug 18, 2010, 09:38 AM
  #64  
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Thanks Frazier,

as far as the boost leak test goes I looked around for a good 5-10 minutes trying to find that EGR vac line that Bryan said could have popped off, but I couldn't find anything that looked wrong.

I'm taking an air compressor home from work today so I will try the test again.

I've read so many mixed reviews on replacing head studs (1x1 method) which is the reason why I wasn't sure and haven't installed them yet, even though I do have them in my garage.
Old Aug 18, 2010, 11:42 AM
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Just rechecked the EGR vac line to see if it was off after looking at a diagram, and there is no line attached.

Thanks Bryan!
Old Aug 18, 2010, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by jtyler
Just rechecked the EGR vac line to see if it was off after looking at a diagram, and there is no line attached.

Thanks Bryan!
Glad I could be of help. Now let us know what the boost leak test tells you.

- Bryan
Old Aug 18, 2010, 02:05 PM
  #67  
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Finished boost leak test.

Had a few leaks:
1) Recirc. line from intake to UICP
2) Coupler that connects top and bottom UICPs
3) Throttle Body Coupler or TB Gasket (This one I removed the entire coupler and clamps and resat everything, but it still leaks a little...not sure if its the TB gasket)

All together, I couldn't completely fix everything but I did quiet it up quite a bit.
Old Aug 18, 2010, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by jtyler
Finished boost leak test.

Had a few leaks:
1) Recirc. line from intake to UICP
2) Coupler that connects top and bottom UICPs
3) Throttle Body Coupler or TB Gasket (This one I removed the entire coupler and clamps and resat everything, but it still leaks a little...not sure if its the TB gasket)

All together, I couldn't completely fix everything but I did quiet it up quite a bit.
Sounds like possible shaft seals, which is pretty common.

To check, pressurize the system and wiggle around the throttle shaft and see if the pitch changes.

I've changed more shaft seals then I can remember...

- Bryan
Old Aug 18, 2010, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by GST Motorsports
I've changed more shaft seals then I can remember...

- Bryan
TMI! TMI!!!!

Seriously though, they all do leak sooner or later.
Old Aug 18, 2010, 02:33 PM
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+1 on the shaft seals, just changed mine. Bought the MIL.SPEC ones, holding up pretty good. I don't know if you have EGR delete, but I found a leak where the block off plate goes. GL
Old Aug 20, 2010, 10:24 PM
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I'm beginning to think my problem was just my boost leaks, which is unfortunate because now I need to be tuned again...Well after I get new seals and 100% fix the leaks..

It makes sense though; higher IAT's and compressor being pushed more than it needs to with 34psi.. a lot of boost for the power I am at.

Total I would say I had +-5 leaks... is this enough to keep me from at least 50whp?
Old Sep 27, 2010, 01:50 PM
  #72  
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Did you ever get these fixed and have a re-tune, numbers?
Old Sep 27, 2010, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by jtyler
I'm beginning to think my problem was just my boost leaks, which is unfortunate because now I need to be tuned again...Well after I get new seals and 100% fix the leaks..

It makes sense though; higher IAT's and compressor being pushed more than it needs to with 34psi.. a lot of boost for the power I am at.

Total I would say I had +-5 leaks... is this enough to keep me from at least 50whp?

It certainly can hurt numbers... spool up, mid range, everthying man... go get re-tuned and let us know...
Old Sep 29, 2010, 03:53 PM
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I've seen some totally different numbers in cars that do and dont have boost leaks. Sounds like you had a lot of them. I hate it when I have one small leak, let alone 5+ leaks.

Fix em all the right way and get it back in for a tune! I want to see what this combo will do as I'm looking at about the same.

Good luck,

Josh
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