mods are:
kelford 272s
aem meth injection
buschur 4" fmi
custom uicp + licp (2.5")
tial 50mm bov
wally 255
custom 3" tbe
jmfab twin scroll ex mani
jmfab o2 dump
fp black @ 30psi
exedy twin disk
stock trans
stock tcase
stock block
made 523whp 486trq on 93 pump gas

 

I can't really speak for safety of my block, but that really seems like WAY to much torque on stock block. Also, post up a dyno or virtual dyno graph before you get flamed.

 

i will when it gets emailed to me. and it runs pretty good, no knock or anything of that nature.

 

Who did your tuning if ya don't mind me asking?

 

I'm curious how that transfer case and tranny will hold up

 

Thats not really the issue unless he's launchin all day long. I'm wonderin how those rods are doin lol

 

Any bets on how long the block lasts?

 

Awesome numbers on 93 + meth!!! Trust me though, you need to get that tq way down with meth. I know it is fun now, but bending a rod is no fun. Just trying to help you out man .

 

No head studs?

 

I am curious if this "crowd" (this particular engine variety) Is in the habbit of installing head studs without boring the block with a deck plate first.

In other words, do people routinely pull the head, and just throw in studs/gasket and go?
Does that actually give good results? (do you guys make it 50,000 miles or more like that)

 

Seems like alot of power for 30 lbs.

 

Don't quote me on this, but I'm pretty confident in saying. The guys who are lucky enough to get the 1x1 method I believe have good results for a long time. Now since I blew a headgasket in my car, I know the shop I took it to, pulled the head, made sure both contact points for the gasket were cleaned up, and sent it to a machine shop to make sure it was level. What do you mean by boring the block with a deck plate. Kinda interested to know what that is.

 

It's a plate that is torqued down onto the block while the cylinders are bored over. The idea is to simulate a cylinder head being bolted to the block, so you preload any distortion out of the block and get a round bore for when the head is bolted down. I'm confused about why this could possibly be necessary though if head studs were the only thing being installed, I'm not sure why you would bore the cylinders unless there was damage to the cylinder walls.

Edit: Was thinking about this more. If he's referring to installing larger diameter head studs, then there may be some merit to this argument. A larger diameter stud could be torqued to a higher value and produce a higher clamping force which could consequently create deformation in the cylinder shape. The idea behind high quality head studs though is to use some kind of exotic material that has a very high yield point, in other words you want something that can take a lot of stress but has very little strain (i.e. it doesn't stretch very much). So unless you were changing to a much larger diameter stud where you'd be applying a huge amount of torque and thus a lot of clamping force that could distort the block, say something like a 0.5" stud, you probably wouldn't need to worry too much about cylinder deformation. But I haven't done an ANSYS analysis on this for our block or anything, I'm just procrastinating at my desk at work, so who knows?

 

You don't really need headstuds at 30psi from what I've read/seen. If the tune is knock free (cylinder pressures with knock are far higher than when running higher boost) I believe it should be fine. You can double boost pressure and cylinder pressures increases by ~8%, but with knock it's far higher. Not all cars are created equal though so some may have issues but it's often impossible to know what really happened when they lifted the head.

 

Head studs provide a different clamping force than head bolts. They are also usually a different torque spec. In many engines, if you simply go from head bolts to studs, the cylinders will no longer be round. It's an especially well known issue with lightweight aluminum blocks like the sr20det (nissan 2.0L).

Mazworx even rents them. They are, in my opinion, the only company in the USA capable of properly building an SR20DET engine to date.


No one "should" install head studs without first bolting down a deck plate, using the same head studs that will be used on the engine during final assembly, using the same lubricant and torque specification as in final assembly, and boring the engine to ensure round cylinders. People still do it all the time, and get away with it; doesn't make it the "right way" though.