Hi Guys,

I trust that you are all well.

My Dyno day would be coming soon after i get several parts installed in my garage.

Ill keep you guys updated in any achievements, however, seeing that everyone here is quite experienced... i would like to see what you guys think and have an approx figure in mind.



Evolution IX 2007' MIVEC - with 31,000 miles


Intake:

• Gruppe M Cool air intake w/ K&N air filter

Engine:

• STOCK
• Sard Iridium Spark plugs (Heat range 7)
• Cusco oil catch can

Cooling:

• AMS intercooler 3.5" current model
• AMS upper / cold side intercooler pipe
• AMS lower / hot side intercooler pipe

Turbo:

• STOCK
• 3" Aluminium (Aluminum) suction pipe replacing rubber pipe
• Evolution VIII MR BOV

Exhaust:

• Invidia o2 housing (dump)
• 3" down pipe
• 3" catback exhaust
• 3" hiflow cat

Drivetrain:

• STOCK

Fuel:

• Walbro 255 Fuel pump with 98 Octane / RON

Boost:

• 22 - 24 PSI

There are several other items that the car has that i don't really know. (installed prior to purchase e.g ralliart shift bushings, diff member support etc that would most likely be insignificant to the tune and dyno..)



what you reckon guys? with an aggressive tune…. (also is it worthwhile to have the cams as additional bolt on?)

a bit of figures to go with the anticipation!

 

See my PM.

 

Assuming 93 octane you should be anywhere from 300-350whp on a mustang, dynojet, or dyno dynamics dyno.

 

Yeah I made 330/313 on 93 with intake, exhaust, EBC and dyno tune @ like 24 or 25psi Evo IX

 

Your boost level will limit your power. Why only 22-24psi with 98 octane? Unless you are knocking like crazy, I don't see why 26-28 would be out of your range on a safe tune.

 

312hp

 

I told you wowsers, with a good tuner, 93 oct, on a mustang dyno you will be arround 330whp.

I say 339whp )

let me know dude )

 

Thanks champ, will do.


Ive often wondered why does everyone here from USA mention 93 octane?

in Aust, our cheap unleaded is about 92 - 93. the "premium" is about 95. and the "high octane" that the owners manual for the EVO recommends 98+ RON.

so i never would put anything less than 98. (not many stations offer e85 from where i am. so i don't think i would tune it to that at this stage)


Well I'm a bit nervous of 26 - 28 PSI.

the car's history on a particular mechanic's record was that, the previous owner somehow boosted it to 28psi without ANY supporting mods. yes OEM exhaust & intake. He also failed to tune the ECU… in which he did not want to spend the money to unlock the flash a previous tuner had locked.

As a result, he had blocked the Catalytic converter. (i assume by possibly running too rich) & some how may have caused the Engine to flex + expand and caused a leak from the head gasket, losing coolant.

I dunno, some say 25 psi is no sweat with the 4G63 + TD05 but that would be with a good tune and supporting mods…

but a local mechanic reckons that the EVO has a safe boost of stock internals of 22psi. i dunno...


Ill see what the tuner would say on Dyno day, when i have all the supporting mods installed. I would like to run at least 24psi.


Heya, 339hp @ wheels… i seriously would be a happy guy!.
ill definitely keep you posted.

 

That is because the US use the Anti-Knock Index to classify their gasoline, unlike Australia as well as many other countries, who use the Research Octane Number (RON). Anti-Knock Index = (RON + MON) / 2.

So Australia's 98 RON would be the equivalent to the US' 93 (R + M)/2, maybe 94.

Also, get the cam install if you can. The gains are tremendous and very noticeable. 272 (GSC S2, JUN 272, Kelford 272) cams would be ideal, so give those a thought.

With a proper tune on ~25 psi + cams, I'm fairly confident you'll exceed 380whp (Dynojet).

 

Heya Faisalm

hmmm interesting about fuels…

makes sense though, what fuels do you have over there?

anyhow, in relation to camshafts… i would like 272 cams but I've been told by a few people that, to run aftermarket cams… it is essential to replace the supporting parts e.g; springs, Stems, retainers?… not just a simple bolt on.

bit of a tedious job it sounds.

I might leave that for the 2nd dyno tune later on…

380 - 400hp @ wheels is my dream goal

 

Fuel here is 87, 89, 91, and 93. So in Australia that would be 91/92, 93/94, 95, 97/98.


About the springs and retainers, yes they are a must on most cams. Up to you really.


Keep us updated

 

how about Tomei , or HKS cams?

 

Well technically, you don't really need to upgrade your valve springs and retainers when changing to larger cams. You shouldn't really experience valve float unless you pass something like 7,500 RPM on high lift cams such as the GSC S2. I've read about many many people installing large cams on stock valvetrains without any issues whatsoever.

It's still not recommended though. The only 272 cams I would feel safe to install on a stock valvetrain would be the HKS 272s because of their milder lift. However, there is a catch with HKS cams. You're not really benefiting much from them. I've seen cars make more power on GSC S1s than they did on HKS 272s.

Tomei 270 cams are still high lift cams, so springs and retainers are recommended as well.

Obviously 264 cams wouldn't need an upgraded valvetrain, so the GSC S1s and Kelford 264s would be safe to install.

 

Interested in results as well, I have a similar set-up

 

What ever your choice is going to be on cams, make sure you install springs and retainers. If you are going to do something do it right from the begging.
Even if you don't pass 7,500 RPM, you might accidentally or in an emergency situation drop to second gear from forth gear at 100km. Your rpm's will go more than 7,500. As long as you are on stock turbo, no need to change your cams. For sure you will gain some hp either from GSC's or HKS but at some point you are will desire a bigger turbo. Since then keep it stock and safe