help timing 2.4 4g64
Nov 3, 2017, 09:00 AM
#1
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
help timing 2.4 4g64
hi sorry for double posting but im in desperate need of help. can someone please help me with setting the timing on my 2.4 4g64
this is how i have it currently
this is how i have it currently
Nov 3, 2017, 01:35 PM
#3
Evolving Member
It's not right. Intake is retarted 2.5* and exhaust 3.5*. The number 0 line should be towards the cam cover mark.
Are you sure the crank is at tdc? In the pictures it looks like it is almost spot on if you didn't do the adjusting. It's not the case with 4g64. If you have a 4g64 block and 4g63 head and 4g63 timing belt, you shouldn't be spot on. You should be 3.75* off and start the adjusting after that.
If you have a 4g63 belt:
1. put the aem gears back to 0 point.
2. put the crank to tdc. CHECK IT IS AT TDC.
3. No you should have both cams about 3.75* degrees wrong.
4. You should have to retard or advance cams 3.75* depending on the start point.adjust the cams so that the number 0 (zero) line is pointing the cam cover mark.
Are you sure the crank is at tdc? In the pictures it looks like it is almost spot on if you didn't do the adjusting. It's not the case with 4g64. If you have a 4g64 block and 4g63 head and 4g63 timing belt, you shouldn't be spot on. You should be 3.75* off and start the adjusting after that.
If you have a 4g63 belt:
1. put the aem gears back to 0 point.
2. put the crank to tdc. CHECK IT IS AT TDC.
3. No you should have both cams about 3.75* degrees wrong.
4. You should have to retard or advance cams 3.75* depending on the start point.adjust the cams so that the number 0 (zero) line is pointing the cam cover mark.
Nov 3, 2017, 04:08 PM
#4
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
i have 4g64 block 4g63 head resurfaced 2 times and evo 9 timing belt. but as you can see icould turn the cams leaving the gears and center to them to zero if needed.
so just pit them to r3.75 ?
so just pit them to r3.75 ?
Nov 3, 2017, 11:06 PM
#5
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
hows this
how does this look now?
took off the belt primed the oil pump put belt back on set the tensioner till the grenade pin was loose, rotated motor a bunch of times, and slightley adjusted intake to where it is.
please any help im desperate
took off the belt primed the oil pump put belt back on set the tensioner till the grenade pin was loose, rotated motor a bunch of times, and slightley adjusted intake to where it is.
please any help im desperate
Nov 4, 2017, 01:24 AM
#6
Evolving Member
It is not right, don't start it!. You have adjusted the cams the wrong direction. You have retarted them and you should have advanced them now. Like I wrote, adjust the number 0 line pointing the cam cover mark. On the pictures now it looks like you should advance the cams about 2 degrees, so they are 5.5* wrong now. But the photos can lie. Don't start it! Retarding the exhaust cam too much -> the pistons hit the exhaust valves.
..and remember that the tdc mark on the plastic cover might not be exactly at the real tdc point. Remove the 1st spark plug, put a long pin in there over the piston and find the highest point of the piston. Don't damage the cylinder walls or the piston. On my build, the crank pulley mark just starts to hit the tdc mark at the real tdc. Well, it's not much because 2 degrees at crank is 1 degree at cams.
I hope some of the forum professionals could shime in and help you here with better English.
..and remember that the tdc mark on the plastic cover might not be exactly at the real tdc point. Remove the 1st spark plug, put a long pin in there over the piston and find the highest point of the piston. Don't damage the cylinder walls or the piston. On my build, the crank pulley mark just starts to hit the tdc mark at the real tdc. Well, it's not much because 2 degrees at crank is 1 degree at cams.
I hope some of the forum professionals could shime in and help you here with better English.
Nov 4, 2017, 03:15 AM
#7
Account Disabled
Your cams need degreeing the proper way by making a lash adjuster solid, using a pointer degree wheel and dial gauge.
Aftermarket gears are always marked wrong (zero isn't zero).
They're marked in cam degrees, not crank degrees and resurfacing the head makes a difference of 0.5 deg unless it's been overdone in which case it's toast.
Aftermarket gears are always marked wrong (zero isn't zero).
They're marked in cam degrees, not crank degrees and resurfacing the head makes a difference of 0.5 deg unless it's been overdone in which case it's toast.
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Nov 4, 2017, 03:24 PM
#10
Account Disabled
Cams are degreed in crank degrees, not cam degrees so they're NOT 5.5 deg out....they're 11 deg out.
That is a LOT.
Guesswork = fail.
Nov 4, 2017, 06:16 PM
#11
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
ok all is 0 or close as i can get it. im so ******* confused.
I understand it will not be set to perfectly as it would be with a degree wheel but it will be adjusted later during tuning for optimum performance with the given setup.
thank you all for your help.
I understand it will not be set to perfectly as it would be with a degree wheel but it will be adjusted later during tuning for optimum performance with the given setup.
thank you all for your help.
Nov 5, 2017, 02:42 AM
#13
Evolving Member
The cam timing looks about right now, but it should be like this if you had a 4G63 block. I just cant understand, how you get your crank at tdc and cams are about spot on without adjusting.
Nov 5, 2017, 07:41 AM
#14
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
yeah thats whats so cornfusing. and why i had previously retarded/advanced the cam 3.5* as i assumed this was just part of the process
ie. set crank to tdc. set cam dowel pins as close to straight up as possible put the evo 9 belt, on crank-oil pump-pulled up to tensioner and idler- wrapped onto exhaust cam with outer gear only retarded enough to match teeth on belt- then did the same with the intake gear. this left me with the cams retarded iirc, so i adjusted them from there.
ie. set crank to tdc. set cam dowel pins as close to straight up as possible put the evo 9 belt, on crank-oil pump-pulled up to tensioner and idler- wrapped onto exhaust cam with outer gear only retarded enough to match teeth on belt- then did the same with the intake gear. this left me with the cams retarded iirc, so i adjusted them from there.
