probal79

We were going through a long lockdown here in Bangladesh due to spike in COVID-19 cases. So had a lot of spare time to read the many threads on crank case pressure. I always had a feeling my catchcan setup was missing something and cound be better designed.

So I borrowed TScomptuned's idea on enlarging the drivers's side breather hole. Also, followed the diagram suggested by MrFred to bring the crank pressure to as low as possible
MrFred's digram below for reference:


The end result pictures below:

Stock breather hole

tpped with 5/8"

Our in-house machinist made this :-)

Installed -10AN on the other side as well.

Breather filter after the catchcan

Picture from another angle

How the finished product looks :-)
Made a good difference at the top end in IMHO:

probal79

So, I've switched back to HKS cams after living with the Tomei Pro Cams 270 for more than 6 months. Reasons are:
- Had to go open loop to idle well with Tomei which i don't like
- My goal was always to have a fast DD. So low speed torque and fast spool is always higher on my priority list over top end power.
- HKS makes the car idle like stock cams. A small video on how well the car idles below for reference:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/11fV...ew?usp=sharing
- 1500 - 3000 RPM part throttle with HKS feels night-and-day compared to Tomei

So, couple of days ago, I decided to try 10% ethanol with fuel. In Bangladesh we only have access to 95 RON which is same as 91 in California I guess.

I'm able to run much leaner uptop with more timing without any knock so far . Will take out the spark plugs next week to check if anything funky is happening inside. Hopefully fuel lines will have no problem as Mitsu suggested in the manual that 10% ethanol should be OK for regular use.

Interestingly, with the valve cover mod done recently to better manage crank case pressure and the addition of Ethanol to run lean uptop, higher timing and slightly higher boost, HKS is able to keep up with Tomei numbers. The runs below are corrected for temp as right now its scorching hot here in Bangladesh. The Tomei runs were in December when it was nice and cold.

extreme-eg

Double the Ethanol % to 20 and you'll start seeing more benefit. The rule of thumb with Ethanol is that the 'noticable difference' range is between 30 & 70%. Lower than 30% doesn't give significant gains and higher than 70% doesn't either. Here in South Africa we also limited to 95RON and we buy E95 from Chemical Suppliers to blend our own E-mix. As a daily driver I know you limited to the quantity you can run practically though.

We used to also use Toluene and Xylene around 10 years ago to create 'race fuel', but those compounds are not good for the human body (carsogenic). Now everyone runs Ethanol blends or Octane Booster (can).

probal79

I always wanted to test my theory that on a small to medium sized turbo, the turbine itself is the biggest choke point for the engine. Big, loud and straight exhausts have little to no effect on power.
With the Blouch 2.0XTR (BBK-3B) and 4G64, my car was ideally suited to test this theory. Over the last weekend, installed a Vibrant resonator in place of the cat (I actually had a test pipe installed) and did a few WOT's to see what effect it has on power and torque.
I'm happy to report that I was right and the resonator had zero effect on power.
The car is now whisper quite with an average of 83.8dB sound level 6" from the exhaust (tested with my iPhone: NIOSH SLM app). I have the Fujitsubo RM-01A exhaust which had 2 resonators already.
Who doesn't love a neighbor friendly car with over 500whp

All the goodies arrived from NY after 45 days :-)

The tech's did a wonderful weld job...

The vibrant resonator clears the propeller shaft easily

A close-up view of the install

All 3 resonators in a line :-)

Average of 83.8dB 6" from the exhaust at idle (1031rpm)

The red line is with the resonator installed. Ignore the peak numbers, most likely clutch slip or road bumps :-D

probal79

Reading up on MrFred's post on the GT-R coil packs, decided to try it on my ride as well. Searching the net for various offerings from different vendors, I decided to go for the kit from Lamspeed, as it was CAD designed and CNC machined aluminium brackets with o-ring seals which completely seals off the plugs from outside elements. And boy am I glad I ordered it.
Received the product yesterday all the way from the land down under. The quality is even better than what they pictured on their website.
Did a test install today and it fits like a glove. I'm waiting for my relays and tefzel wires to arrive to do the final install and test if there's any improvement in off boost throttle response and idle.
Ordered the GT-R design plugs as well which fits the Evo. All the parts should arrive in about a month from NY.
Hoping to run 0.031" gap for a butter smooth idle

probal79

I've been meaning to upgrade my wiring for the fuel system keeping the dual voltage option for a long time. Also, the GTR coils needed upgraded wire to run.
Had a long weekend last month and read up on all the wiring diagrams for both and came up with a strategy to strengthen the wiring system to ensure better voltage throughout the system.
Bought Tefzel wire and relays from racespec and got the job done couple of weeks ago. The price and quality is excellent...couldn't be happier with my purchase from there.

For the fuel system, the wiring was a bit tricky as the hi-voltage relay is NC (normally closed), but following the wiring diagram from manual, got it done on the first go. Had to relocate the ACD relay to make space for the lo-voltage relay but it was pretty straight forward. Used the starter relay from Toyota for it which is available everywhere in Bangladesh

Made a mounting clamp for the Ignition relays(s) from our in-house machine shop which came out nice. Decided to go overboard and install a 20 amp relay per pair of coils

Needless to say, the car starts up and idles a thousand times better now. Specially cold start and cruise driving with the GTR coils are unbelievable. Also, running 0.031" gap has made the car idle like glass.

Sharing the wiring diagrams and pictures for reference if anyone is interested to convert


Racespec relay for the GTR coils. Toyota starter relay for fuel pump lo-voltage. The relocated ACD relay can be seen at the bottom.

Zoomed out pic for location reference

The Lamspeed coil mount fits like a glove. The highest quality kit I've seen...bar none.

probal79

I was curious to see some guys reporting good experience with the underdrive water pump pulley and always wanted to try it out. While browsing for it in evospec website, I also noticed they make a very nice belt tensioner delete kit. Ordered both and installed it last week.

I'm happy to report that the parts quality from evospec is top notch and installation was a breeze. Cant share VD log yet as I'm breaking in my new clutch...but did a couple of WOT's (clutch slipped post 6k RPM) out of curiosity and it seems like the boost is coming on a bit early. Might be because of the GTR coil swap...I'm not sure. But I'm seeing a 200 rpm gain in boost across the board as well and 2 notch less WG duty cycle required to achieve the same boost curve as before.

The water temp used to go up to a max of 192F, I've seen it now go up to 194 briefly after spirited driving....which is not too bad in my opinion. There's no track in Bangladesh...so cant comment on performance for track use.

Sharing a few stock images from evospec for the underdrive pulley and tensioner delete kit as well as a screenshot of log for the spool.


Log screenshot

Water pump under drive pulley

Picture of Water pump under drive pulley and belt tensioner kit installed

probal79

My Exedy twin organic SD clutch was slipping a bit of late and struggling to hold around 480ft-lb wheel torque. Also, I was looking for a clutch which could hold 600+ torque and the pedal feel is lighter compared to Exedy...if possible close to stock as my car is a DD and there's heavy traffic on Bangladesh roads.

After a few nights of research, I pulled the trigger on ATS twin carbon pull type clutch with double action release. It stood out from the others with its patented wedge collar and claim of pedal effort 20% lighter than stock.

And boy I'm glad I chose ATS. The pedal effort is actually lighter than stock. Also, no cold driving tantrums associated with carbon clutch is there. The gear shifts like butter with no difficulties at high RPM shifts. In fact the clutch prefers quick gear ****s...

The few minor quarks:
- Sharp whining noise but not too loud with clutch pressed in...both in idle and during shifts. Much lower than Exedy twin SD
- Noise during decel if gear is not put into neutral...the Exedy clutch did not have this
- Slight jerk when starting from stand still...but it has started to go away after 200km of driving. I'm pretty sure it will not be there once break-in is finished.

I cannot recommend the ATS clutch enough....it's an absolute gem. Also, the build quality is out of this world.

Swapped the clutch lines as well during the install....upper line with Cusco and lower line from STM. Pictures below for reference:

Patented wedge collar

The built quality is a sight to behold

Lower clutch line from STM

Upper clutch line from Cusco

Changed all Diff drain bolts with ATS magnetic one's. Very good fitment and product.

probal79

Hi Guys,

I was extremely busy last few months with office work and a large wave of omicron sweeping across Bangladesh.

Lots of update in terms of tuning and parts in my daily driver

Starting with the bad news....as much as I loved the ATS clutch for its feather light pedal feel and superb high RPM shifting...it did not hold power for my car. Not the clutch's fault...it was mine. I thought they advertised WHP on their website. Before switching out the ATS, I drove about 800km for break-in and the pedal feel was absolutely spot on with 0 jerking starting from a stop. Lateron I realized I needed to get their triple carbon for my power goals.

So after some research, I have installed the Cusco twin organic as it has the strap drive system. The break-in is complete and it is holding power during 3rd gear WOT so far. Pedal feel is 30% stiffer compared to ATS and about 50% softer than the standard Exedy HD twin. Due to strap drive design, it has 0 chatter with or without clutch in. I have a completely silent car after 5 years


Cusco twin copper mix installed with ACT Monoloc

Picture of the organic disks from the net

Concept of the strap drive system. Notice the springs in the middle plate...also, the clutch cover is bolted to the flywheel.

probal79

I have always wanted to tryout a bigger throttle body for my car and retain the existing glass like idle with the HKS cams. Also, I feel like the S90 and full blown is too large for power goals and idle control is lacking compared to the stock one. My dream was to get the Mil.spec or Works TB, but couldn't source one after searching for almost a month.

So, finally I pulled the trigger on the 68mm Skunk2, and boy was I in for a ride...

First off, the the positives:
- Built quality and materials used are very good
- 0 leaks from the shaft
- Excellent idle control with the stepper motor location and idle screw

Now, the negatives:
- The TB wont hit 100% in evoscan no matter how much TPS is adjusted
- I like my final stepper motor position to be around 25-27 when car is warm resulting in ISCV demand trim at -1.17% which is what it defaults to after every flash. Unfortunately, with the idle screw loosened by even 6-7 turns it didn't go there.
- The Pedal feel was super stiff after installing the Skunk2. It was impossible to tip in the throttle from a standstill situation. TPS would go from0 to 20% and car wanted to jump off the line even when I'm driving casually.

Machine shop guy to the rescue:
Our inhouse machine shop guy fixed all 3 problems.
- He got me a custom spring fabricated from a local factory which made the Skunk2 pedal feel just like stock. They replicated the design and gave me 3 springs to try. Each with different resistance. I settled for the middle one. Cost was $5 for all 3 (I love Bangladesh )
- Adjusting the throttle stopper screw while keeping a close eye on evoscan did the trick of bringing the ISCV demand to-1,17% with the idle screw about 1.5 turns open.
- The throttle plate stopper at WOT position needed to be grinded off by about 1mm to bring the TP to 100% with the TPS at 642mV (13.33% on Evoscan).


The blue marked screw had to be adjusted...

Stock vs Skunk2 68mm


All was done by my machine guy in 1 days

probal79

Installed the STM power steering fluid reservoir last month and am very happy with it The design is very close to stock so no more fluid starvation on hard turns unlike other after market designs i tried before. Love the wrinkle black color.

probal79

I've been looking at Australian parts manufacturers for the last couple of months as I think my current setup is maximized. I don't want to lose any spool for making more power and hence the research began.

I found a company named Artec who has just released a new exhaust manifold in Feb 2022. It's cast iron, the only kind I would ever use in my car. Also, it can retain the factory heat shield but has narrower and longer runners which fits my goals perfectly.

Thanks to a fantastic article from Morrison Fabrications, I decided to try out narrow and longer runner manifold in my car. The article is below if anyone is interested. Also, I loved the design of the Artec O2 dump with provision to fit 2 Oxygen sensors and the front pipe with V band design for quick release and eliminating the need for a gasket which is prone to leaking.
http://morrisonfabrications.com/larg...old-dyno-test/


I think my setup is maximized...what do you guys think? These are with my current parts. Artec will be arriving in April.

Comparison with the Artec and my existing FP manifold



Ceramic coating Done :-)


Love the V band design.

probal79

After using the Blouch 2.0 XTR for almost 4 years now, I want to upgrade to something new. In my opinion, the 2.0 XTR is one of the best turbo that can be mated with a stroker engine. Instant spool and holds above 30 psi at 7500...what can beat that.

Over at Australia, a relatively new turbo company has launched something for the Evo platform in 2019....I want to try out one of their turbo to see if I can touch 600whp while still make 32 psi by 3800 on 3rd.

Reasons for choosing Intense Turbo 5656rs are:
- MHI hotside
- Surge cover
- new blade design
- Size is close to 2.0 XTR (2.0 XTR: Compressor inducer: 57mm, Turbine Exducer: 54.5mm / 5656RS: Compressor inducer: 56mm, Turbine Exducer: 56mm)
- Many dyno sheets published by intense turbo and other reputed shops in Australia

I should receive the turbo by June...hope to share some VD graphs by July

alpinaturbo

iTrader: (5)

We are all looking forward to your next update, trying ArTec Cast SST exhaust manifold and the Intense Turbo 5656RS turbo.

I casually compared the Specs you shown above to the golden-standard FP Red:

• Compressor wheel - 76HTZ
• Flow rating - 61LB per minute
• CW Measurements - 54.8MM Inducer / 76MM Exducer (56 mm inducer for 5656RS)
• TW Measurements - 67.3MM Inducer / 58.8MM Exducer (56 mm exducer for 5656RS)

I think that BBK-3B, aka Blouch XT2.0, is just ever so slightly smaller than FP Red, but more more responsive even on 2.0.
Wil be interesting to see the results, but I would have gone for FP red becasue larger turbine ever - than 5656RS - ever so slightly benefits lowering backpressure, which is the issue for MHI 10.5T housing turbos.

There is also 5960RS, which seems to have nicely impressed in Australia when used on stroker 2.3/2.4:
Built 2.3.
280* camshafts (Kelford?)
Intense 5960 turbo kit.
3.5inch exhaust.(ArTec dump)
Benchmark PnP ECU package.
Flexfuel tune.
Key numbers being torque.
500+Nm by 4k on 98.
700+Nm by 4k on Ethanol.

I suspect that 5960RS is notably laggier than your current XT2.0 Blouch. FP Red on 2.3/2.4 should be "all in" by 3600-3700rpm in my observation.

probal79

Hi Alpinaturbo,

I also think Intense 5960RS is way too big for the setup I have in mind. I would love to try the FP red somewhere down the line and compare it with the Blouch 2.0 XTR in terms of spool vs power.

So.....this week have another update on car hardware . I bought the HKS oil cooler kit from Japan last month and finally got it installed. Thanks to Anas, a fellow Evo owner here in Bangladesh for bringing the HKS unit to my attention.

I'm always a sucker for increasing the oil capacity in my Evo...and my main goal with the HKS unit was to increase oil capacity as It's unique design allows to keep the OEM cooler side by side. I have the Setrab oil cooler kit in my car (in place of OEM), so had to fabricate one -AN joint from our in-house machinist. Rest of install was a breeze. Total Oil capacity with the Moroso Oil pan + Setrab oil cooler + HKS oil cooler is now 7.2 liters

I can't praise the quality of the HKS unit enough. Extremely well built unit and everything fits like a glove. Initially looking at the sheer size of the cooler, I was very skeptic that it would fit in the designated location as suggested by HKS. In the end, everything lined up like a champ.

Sharing the install pics below for pipe routing reference for future:

Haven't measured the difference in temp on my car, but I was super impressed by the data HKS shared in their website. Above data is from a lap on Evo 9 in the HKS test circuit.

JDM Evo's like me has the intercooler spray tank here. HKS suggests to replace it with Nissan part # 27480-H1001. Since I run the USDM tephra 3D SD ROM in my car whereby the spray doesn't work, decided to remove the tank entirely.


Setrab oil cooler kit on the left...HKS on the right. The intercooler is HKS Type R with piping incase anyone is wondering :-)