Awesome build Probal79!

If you want to lower your oil temps a little more, you can run the HKS 75ºC oil thermostat:
https://stmtuned.com/products/hks-ev...2117553f&_ss=r
It's got a stiffer spring on the end of the thermostat also, so less chance for the oil to bypass the oil coolers.

I'm running the Intense 5353 turbo with a 2.3+Mivec engine. It works really well and made good power with good response.
I think you'll really enjoy the 5656 turbo.

Can you do me a favour?
Before you swap turbos, do some transient spool testing (or "Time-to-boost").
For example, measure the time to reach a desired boost pressure in a specific gear and specific starting rpm.

Example:
3rd gear, get the engine speed to 5000rpm.
Lift off throttle, until the engine drops down to 4000rpm. This allows the turbo to spin down (low turbine speed).
Once you hit 4000rpm, then go to full throttle. Measure time to desired boost (15psi, 20psi, 25psi etc).
Repeat the test at least 3 times to get an average number.
Going from the Blouch to the Intense turbo, this will give some great "real world data" rather than only dyno sheets.
As we know - dyno sheets dont always show the engine characteristics.

 

Hi RSMike,

Good to hear from another Intense turbo owner. I though I was the only one in the forum going that route. Please share few VD or Dyno results of 3rd gear WOT if possible for my future comparison reference.

I am already using the HKS oil thermostat. Bought it with the oil cooler as suggested by HKS. Forgot to mention in the earlier post

Did some testing today for transient response as requested. Unfortunately, run started from 3625 RPM, not 4000 despite me eyeballing it to the best of my ability. From full vacuum (-23.5 in.hg) to full boost (33.1 psi), stabbing the throttle from idle to 100% took around 1.44 sec. This is a 3rd gear run.

Time taken for 15, 20, 25, 30 & 33 psi is marked in the graph below. Let me know if you want 4th as well.

 

Got 4000rpm on the dot today in 3rd gear

Graph and log below for reference:

 

Fantastic - this at least gives you a baseline so you can see the differences between this turbo and the new one!





I'm running 225/45R17 tyres with 4.111 final drive. So this will effect the results relative to your setup.
It's best to conduct the test consistently however you want to do it. But here is some data from my setup.

 

Your setup spools pretty quick!
I think mine is "slow" because of my larger intake manifold and 2.5" intercooler piping.
I like the idea of changing to the Skunk2 to see what the response difference is like, just quite a big job to change it!

 

I'm surprised to see the 5353 is out spooled by Blouch 2.0. Keeping my fingers crossed for the 5656 as I am not willing to lose more than 200 rpm of spool for more top end power.

My HKS Type R intercooler uses 2.75" piping. So I doubt the piping is your reason for slower spool. From my spool experiments of past 3-4 years, following items have really helped with quicker spool:
- Right cams. I briefly switched over to Tomei procam 270 from my current HKS 272/278 and resulted in over 300 rpm of spool loss at WOT
- Boost leaks. Throttle shaft seal, J pipe seal and vacuum pipe leaks really rob spool. Also, I've had excellent results with HPS spring loaded T-bolt clamps
- Exhaust Manifold....Artec has helped with around 200 rpm spool at WOT. Also, part throttle response is night and day compared to the FP I had earlier
- Lean spool enabled and keeping AFR around 12.8 - 13 till 10 psi and 12 till 25 psi helps a lot with spool
- Super aggressive MIVEC map till 4000 rpm

Please share some dyno graphs of 3rd gear if available

 

I was wondering if anyone can share their experiences with logging back pressure with Evoscan.

So far from reading posts by MrFred, I see that 3 plug Evo 8/9 ECU's have 3 empty ADC pins which the ECU reads. Picture attached for reference.
Pin 64 - 0F - using for Meth failsafe
Pin 73 - 0A - using for AFR safety
Pin 93 - 0C - want to use for logging back pressure

I am thinking of using the following kit from AEM and wire the sensor to pin 93 of ECU.
Setup Evoscan with request ID: 0C and use formula: 0.490*x-12.5 (Derived from AEM transfer function graph by blockade35)

AEM kit: https://www.aemelectronics.com/produ...stallation-kit

Any opinions or suggestions will be highly appreciated.

 

I'm running the big AMS F1 cast intake manifold on my setup. It's a much larger volume than yours, and the runners are a little shorter.
If it was running the stock intake manifold, it would spool much quicker.

I think the 5656 on your setup will be fantastic

 

What timing belt did you use? Stock Evo 9?

I am currently building a Evo 9 4G64 2.4LR with a FP Black MHI. I am wondering about the timing gear alignment. From what I understand you need an adjustable gear on the exhaust side and set that to compensate for the 4G64 block. Is the MIVEC gear set to the timing marks? If so what adjustments need to be made in the ECU?

 

Gates T256

 

The stock timing belt for the 9 works...although I'm currently using HKS timing belt which is manufactured by Gates.

The exhaust cam gear must be adjustable to compensate for the 6mm taller deck. Around 3.75 degrees. Align the exhaust timing gear post adjustment with the timing mark on the valve cover. The intake MIVEC cam gear will be slightly off which is fine. In terms of ECU maps, I run 9 degrees timing and -1.2 degrees on the MIVEC map in the idle zone. Car idles better than stock although it will entirely depend on your choice of cams. I run HKS 272/278 cams on my 9.

After timing is done and the pin is pulled from the tensioner, turn the engine twice and align exhaust cam gear with the exhaust valve cover mark, wait for 10 mins and check if the pin goes back in freely. If it doesn't, something is wrong.

To get the full 28 degrees of advance on the intake MIVEC cam, the stock gear needs to be modded. English racing does this for a fee. Also, Aaron has a write up on how to do this if you want to do it yourself. Just search the forum.

Hope this helps. Cheers

 

Thanks for all the info on this. I am planning on trying out the GSC R2 cams. I also have a set of S2 cams from my stock motor if I find the R2s too laggy. I also have a Headgames head with a pocket port for this build. I’m on a LinkECU, but have it setup so I can also run the stock ECU if I need to.

 

Very helpful thread @probal79

How did the Intense turbo go? Did you get the Link ECU?

 

Thank you for the kind words @evl08.

I've sold the Intense Turbo to a friend of mine after through testing. It made a tad bit more power compared to the Bloch 2.0XTR but sacrificed a lot of spool which didn't appeal to me much.

Also, I've moved on to a BC 2.5L stroker kit for the 4G64 block with 8.5 compression custom CP pistons. Shout out to Zach at realstreet for fantastic price and support. The car now has absolutely 0 knock and spools like a monster.

Below graph demonstrates the difference between the 2 turbos. Please note the graphs are 5 months apart and ambient temps are different.

Notice the Blouch 2.0XTR makes 30 PSI by 3,400 RPM in 3rd gear

 

Also, I've bought a X MR about 10 months ago and in the process of finishing all the mods on that car as well. Both cars are a blast to drive and put a smile on my face daily.

My recent mods and tune related posts are now covered over at Insta under same username (probal79).