Car is a evo 8 mods are
- evo 9 mivec engine
- 280 kelford cams (springs and retainers)
- arp headstuds
- 3” fmic
​​​​​​- gtp 762 turbo
-1000cc injectors
- nvidia dump to 3” straight pipe exhaust
- 320lph fuel pump
- evo 7 5 speed trans
- tuned on a haltec platinum
- runs on e85

previous owner tuned the car to 280kw “safely” but just curious would it be capable of more power or should I start getting internals before pushing for more. My goal is around 500-550whp

 

Keep wheel torque to 400 ft-lbs (542 Nm) or under, depending on the dyno. Don't worry about WHP or KW because that isn't what breaks engine or drivetrain parts. The WHP or KW will make what ever the turbo will push while your tuner limits your wheel torque.

 

Bigger injectors will be needed. I run 1000cc inj & i'm tapped out running E85 / Results were: 460whp / 402wtq (DynoJet). I agree that 400 wtq is a safe figure on a Dynojet

 

Would it be worth stroking it or just going forged pistons and rods to get the 500-550 mark? And what would be the best brand?

 

It all depends on your power goals.

 

what would be the best route for 500-600 torque and hp, stroke it or stay with the 2.0? And what brands. The car is just staying a street car

 

You will get a bunch of suggestions. Realize, you also need to match your tranny gearing up too. So if you want to rev it up for this power and keep the bearings happy, 2.0 is easiest on bearings and you can mod the tranny the least. If you go with 2.1/2.2/2.3, bearings will take more punishment with each step and more extreme tranny builds will be needed.

 

Just to give you an idea, I'm building my own 2.16 stroker (94mm crank). I'm working on a special fill to stiffen up my block. And have a design to boost my engine. I am also building my entire drivetrain myself to match up with stroker. It all adds up REALLY FAST!

 

But for your plans, I would stick with a simple 2.0 build and the newest 6466 turbo. You will be 500-600 wtq and around 800whp. 2.0 or 2.0LR (Long Rod) will keep your bearings happiest.

 

Good move on the 94mm crank.
An OEM 4g63 Block is plenty strong for 1000+whp

 

Thanks. This is the same build that I started years ago with everyone's advise here on evom. It just took a long time buying parts to build since I didn't want down time and have my evo on jack stands for a year.
The custom pistons were a disaster because Buschur took my money and never ordered them. So I finally got a refund after 4-5 months and calling him out on his fake updates ("it's getting a coating", etc).
But now, the mods expanded into me doing my tranny build myself since my current build whines from 1st launch so I don't have confidence in my top evo (self proclaimed) local shop build. And then I got a rear diff where I need to tear that apart to restack the plates and install my new and treated ring & pinion. I'll eventually get it all built and installed....hopefully before 2021 when Fontana opens up.

 

10-4.
I wouldn't fill the block with anything on a street car. Thats where I was going with that statement. If you are running into a 4g63 block issue south of 1000+ hp I would look somewhere else..

 

Thanks, but I have a setup that only needs to be welded together and hoping that it could make up 1200 whp. I have an idea on how to mid fill the block but it takes time to set up. I'm just extremely hesitant to risk a block to test an idea.

 

Asking for a "safe power level" then saying your goal is 500whp+ doesn't really make for an efficient conversation

 

You have zero reason to fill the the block. Not needed below 1000whp, at all. You're not risking anything. This is long since proven information.