EVO 9 SSL speaker performance
EVO 9 SSL speaker performance
Hi,
Just curiuous about how good the stock is, here's my little analysis:
1) The sound system became much better after they get used up a bit (in audiophile lingo, we called this 'break-in') they sound quite decent now.
2) Further analysis with RTA (real time analyser): the front is decently good, the crossover point is probably between 2.8-3KHz, not much output after 16Khz.
The rear speaker is more problematic, with extremely uneven frequency response. The subwoofer in the trunk is hopeless, very uneven, with not much output below 50Hz, basically, it's a 'one-note bass' at around 100Hz. Taken together, the overall sound is quite bad.
I would remove the rear subwoofer, and replace the 2 rear speaker with a decent 6.5" mid-woofer (will investigate if I would filter the high or run full-range; for fill-ins), the front is easy, and probably just replace the door woofers and the A-pillar tweeters with better performing parts.
The amp looks like it can be easily removed, but finding another small amp to fit there could be a challenge (using existing bracket). I would suggest the Pioneer Premiere amplifier full-range Class-D amp PRS-D4000F (approx $300 street), the Icepowr technology they licensed from B&O is very serious, similar technology used in home amplifiers costing $3-5K.
Since I am more of an audio guy but not a car guy, wondering anyone in the N.CA (SF Bay Area) would like to take on a side job of helping me swap speakers and head?
Just curiuous about how good the stock is, here's my little analysis:
1) The sound system became much better after they get used up a bit (in audiophile lingo, we called this 'break-in') they sound quite decent now.
2) Further analysis with RTA (real time analyser): the front is decently good, the crossover point is probably between 2.8-3KHz, not much output after 16Khz.
The rear speaker is more problematic, with extremely uneven frequency response. The subwoofer in the trunk is hopeless, very uneven, with not much output below 50Hz, basically, it's a 'one-note bass' at around 100Hz. Taken together, the overall sound is quite bad.
I would remove the rear subwoofer, and replace the 2 rear speaker with a decent 6.5" mid-woofer (will investigate if I would filter the high or run full-range; for fill-ins), the front is easy, and probably just replace the door woofers and the A-pillar tweeters with better performing parts.
The amp looks like it can be easily removed, but finding another small amp to fit there could be a challenge (using existing bracket). I would suggest the Pioneer Premiere amplifier full-range Class-D amp PRS-D4000F (approx $300 street), the Icepowr technology they licensed from B&O is very serious, similar technology used in home amplifiers costing $3-5K.
Since I am more of an audio guy but not a car guy, wondering anyone in the N.CA (SF Bay Area) would like to take on a side job of helping me swap speakers and head?
Any analysis of the stock 03 system and what to replace? I'm not an audiophile, but I already realized my stock radio sucked... and replaced it with an old model 50X4 pioneer deck I've had for years. Sounded great already. Also took a 100w amp and put in a 10" 10w1 in my trunk.. sounds decent, but not as good as my DSM that it came from
i don't have the ssl in either of my evos but i know the stock evo radio sucked. i too noticed that the fronts sounded mediocre & the rears were worse. if u take out the SSL sub, u will notice that the enclosure has no internal volume + it's plastic so it sounds like using a bucket as a box!!! i chose to run Niche Audio NS 6.5c components as their dynamic range & RMS power are equivalent to the Dynaudio System 360 (the midrange is flatter on the Dynaudio as it is a 3 way system). i am not running any rear fill speakers. i am temporarily running a Sony XM2200GTX 2ch amp for those & a Majestic MA-1620A mono amp for the Alpine Type-X 12 in the trunk.
bcuz the EVO speaker is a Euro-Din (7") i fabbed brackets so they would mount EXACTLY like stock & also bcuz my midbass driver was almost 1 inch deeper in mounting depth. if i hadn't done this, my windows wouldn't have rolled down!!!!!!!!!!!!(stock depth 2 1/16" vs 3" on the Niche) i also had to trim the inside of the door panel so that it would go back on.
here is the thread i showed pics in:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=115777
bcuz the EVO speaker is a Euro-Din (7") i fabbed brackets so they would mount EXACTLY like stock & also bcuz my midbass driver was almost 1 inch deeper in mounting depth. if i hadn't done this, my windows wouldn't have rolled down!!!!!!!!!!!!(stock depth 2 1/16" vs 3" on the Niche) i also had to trim the inside of the door panel so that it would go back on.
here is the thread i showed pics in:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=115777
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Originally Posted by shimla
is it possible to just replace the sub but use the same box in the trunk?
i also noticed that the SSL's sub prevents you from running a rear strut tower bar. u have to unbolt the sub to put one in...
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