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Old Oct 18, 2006 | 01:23 PM
  #46  
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Yea, if I am going to be spending this much on speakers, I definitely want to take every measure I can to make them sound as good as possible. Is there anything else besides sound deadening I need to do when installing?
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Old Oct 18, 2006 | 02:10 PM
  #47  
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A solid baffle. Screwing a speaker to a tin can will cause a ton of resonance and hte sheet metal in the door isn't much better. A steel or MDF ring would be a good idea. Don' put the xover or hte tweeter in the door. Play with speaker phasing to get the best possible sound.
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Old Oct 18, 2006 | 02:50 PM
  #48  
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second the wood baffle.
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Old Oct 18, 2006 | 04:29 PM
  #49  
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Is the wood baffle just a ring or is it actually like a small enclosure? Is there actually that much room in the door? Sorry for such a noob question.
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Old Oct 18, 2006 | 06:15 PM
  #50  
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Just a ring to make the mounting point stronger. That will make a bigger difference than any deadening can. I am using 1/4" steel baffles that are tapped for bolts to secure the speaker and it really helps midbass.
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 08:16 AM
  #51  
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I second this. I used a thin plastic + foam baffle that basically does little in way of buffering the speaker mounting points from the door itself. This midbass response as a result is very very low. I can feel the speaker moving, but I can't hear it because its also moving the panel area around the mount points.

I did, however, secure the xover within the door frame itself although the tweeters are in the stock position.
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 08:00 PM
  #52  
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alright

alright ladies,

why dont you post specs of your systems and some pics of your systems.

i am very interested too
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 01:35 PM
  #53  
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where do you guys purchase the wood or steel baffles.i'm going to buy a set of focal speakers.what would you need to mount them.because i see they wont fit in the stock location.do they sell brackets.pictures will help also to get an idea.thanks
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 02:27 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by icedomin8r
Ideally, unless you care about your rear passengers, you shouldn’t run rear speakers if you want true sound quality. Tell me, when is the last time you went to a concert and sat backwards to the stage?.
Granted the rear speakers dont sound as clear to the driver as front speakers, but if you can listen to a full set up with and without rear speakers the driver WILL hear a difference. the rear speakers are fillers. and if you want to talk true sound quality, now day decks have time correction to filter out any "echoing"

Originally Posted by icedomin8r
If you drop $300 on a nice component set don’t go cheaping out on an amp. Make sure it’s from a quality manufacture. Your system is only as strong as your weakest link.
+1
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 02:39 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by evo4g63awd
Granted the rear speakers dont sound as clear to the driver as front speakers, but if you can listen to a full set up with and without rear speakers the driver WILL hear a difference. the rear speakers are fillers. and if you want to talk true sound quality, now day decks have time correction to filter out any "echoing"


+1
True most higher end source units include time alignment, but to get a perfect stereo image you only need a front stage. My head unit has time alignment and it helpes raise and seperate the sound stage. I have installed F+R speakers with a time alignment headunit in many cars and they just dont sound right.
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 02:48 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by icedomin8r
True most higher end source units include time alignment, but to get a perfect stereo image you only need a front stage. My head unit has time alignment and it helpes raise and seperate the sound stage. I have installed F+R speakers with a time alignment headunit in many cars and they just dont sound right.
agreed, so have i.

well perfect stereo image, how bout a center channel
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 03:03 PM
  #57  
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All Time correction that comes from a crappy DSP chip in the head unit is meant for Left to Right correction, not front to rear because you don't sit in the center of the car. Pathlenghts are very important, especially for midbass freuquencies. Rear fill is pure voodoo. The car has so many reflective surfaces that a single speaker has arrival times within a quarter of the amplitude for over half a second. More speakers firing at reflective glass only make it worse and makes the system sound diffused.

I built a test chamber a few years ago from an old Civic 4 door sedan. I built a new dash, made the seats extend back another 9" and treated the interior to acoustical damping. It was amazing how much decay was eliminated by covering different areas and doing before and after measurements. It was also very helpful in determining which speakers had faster response. Bottom line is, more speakers doing the same thing is not a good thing in a car.
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Old Oct 28, 2006 | 12:36 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by pltek
alright ladies,

why dont you post specs of your systems and some pics of your systems.

i am very interested too
working on mine currently

Eclipse avn 5500
ARC 4200 Signature
Morel 3 way Elate components
2 JL 10w3v3 Ported.
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Old Oct 28, 2006 | 07:59 AM
  #59  
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Mine is a work in progress as well

Alpine CDA-9855
Alpine 6.5" Type R components SPR-17LS
Alpine 6.5" Type R Coaxials SPR-17LP
Alpine MRD-M605
Alpine MRV-F345
Alpine 12" Type R
Alpine Amp Link
Alumapro 5 farad cap

Monster Cable 2G wire
Monster 2&4 channel RCAs
etc etc - mostly monster...

My work in progress. still isnt done. and i am replacing the crappy box for the sub...

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...1&page=1&pp=15

Thats the link to my stuff with pictures...
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Old Oct 28, 2006 | 08:09 AM
  #60  
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evo4g63awd,

Great system man, i was checking out your other thread earlier yesterday.

I am getting ready to do my system however i will be running an alpine 10" type R. Still surfing for a nice amp, then i can get to installing. Any suggestions as far as amps are concerned, and capacitors?

Steve
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