Caps and additional batteries only add more components for the alternator to charge. A nice yellowtop could help a small light dimming problem, but if you have a major voltage drop, an alternator is the best answer.

 

psst, future reference, im a girl
as far as they other guy is suggesting yellow tops, yes they are great and reguardless your alternator is still going to have to charge the battery. its just much stronger. i love alumapro's caps, havent had any problems with them, just my opinion though. 1 farad for every 1000rms supposidly. depends on the cap and the product too. the 10" type r should requre 400rms if i remember correctly. but then again i am wrong a lot. alpine is getting wishy washy now days, i still kinda like them though. kicker, eclipse, mtx, alpine, etc, dont go for a cheap amp though. better to over power than underpower.

any questions, dont be afraid to shoot me a pm


Sarah

 

Sarah,

Sorry about the mix up on the gender.

Yeah i was under the impression that 1 farad for every 1000rms as well. Thats why i figured .5 would be the best for the set up. Mind you i am not looking to enter my car in any sub contest and am not looking to load the trunk up with subs. I have heard a lot of subs and for some reason the type-r still remains to be one of my favorites. Also its a greast sub for the price, it was under 100 smackers.

If i run into any stereo installation problems, i'll let ya know!

Steve

 

i'm running 6 1/2" pioneer speakers in my evo with a pioneer hu...the bass is decent without an amp....but if you put an amp on them i'm sure you would have plenty of bass....i've thought of doing this or adding a sub but i haven't done anything yet

 

bass is not really good for speakers, they should put out just your mids and highs. granted they may sound somewhat decent when you bad bass, most times this will fry out the speaker faster...

 

You're not going to get "better" bass then the stock paper speakers without a sub. Those suckers have quite a bit of travel and excel at being boomy.

 

THe 1mFd per 1000 watts is a good rule that good amps follow. All amps have capacitance built into the power supply. Whether it is enough is a wuestion of how good the amp is. I know of 300 watt amps with .5mFd built in. You should never have to buy a cap unless you bought a crappy amp or didn't intall properly.

Carbon Alloy Caps (Alumapro, Phoenix Gold, Rockford, etc) do nothing for your system, they are basically a second battery which is why they need a relay to activate/deactivate them. They have a very slow discharge rate where a true stiffening capacitor discharges completely in 1/32nd of a second 'hiding' a problem.

 

Thanks for all the info!!

 

i'm not sure of the point that some of the guys were trying to make...yes bass is supposed to come out of a 6 1/2" speaker...that's what the big cone is made for....and yes the pioneers have a lot more bass than the stock speakers

 

They are not designed for bass, and will distort far more noticeably than the factory cones that are designed to play a very short frequency range.

 

+1

actually factory speakers most of the time will put out more bass than aftermarkets. ESPECIALLY pioneers. Bass + high and midrange speakers = bad

thats why they made subs....

 

yeah..i agree with what yall are saying but i don't have an amp on them so i'm not pushing them hard at all so there is no distortion...i'm just talking about a hu and speakers with no amp...i had the stock speakers in and that sounded ok but the pioneers sound better and have more bass response than the stockers did...probably since the magnet on the pioneers is twice as big and they can handle more wattage