roll cages
roll cages
how do officials say one cage is to spec or not. i know there need to be so many points for certains speeds... so define what a 6 point cage is where are the 6 points ..... i just want a detailed description so i understand cages
http://www.nhrasportcompact.com/2007/rules/index.html
Here is a complete rule book for the NHRA Sony Xplod series.
You will need a flywheel scatter shield at 11.49 and quicker and a driveshaft loop within 6 inches of the front U-Joint. If you are going quicker than a 10.00 or 135 mph you will need a "roll cage" not just a roll bar. You will also need the cage certified with a serial number if your quicker than a 10.00 as well as a NHRA License. A neck coller is also required at 9.99 or 135mph. A master cut-off or (kill switch) is required at 9.99 or 135mph. A parachute is required for 150mph or faster.
If you plan on going faster (Up to a 7.50 or slower) you will also need to run a funny car type cage. Im not sure how quick you can go with just a 10 point but I believe it is an 8.50 or slower. If you need to go quicker than 8.50 you should really buy the SFI book that will apply to your chassis. Assuming you dont make it a tube chassis you will probably get the SFI 25.5.
If you run a rollcage you will also need to swap to a 5 point belt type and need a window net and a fire jacket. At 9.99 you will need the jacket and pants meeting sfi 3.2A/5, and gloves meeting SFI 3.3/1.
Here is a complete rule book for the NHRA Sony Xplod series.
You will need a flywheel scatter shield at 11.49 and quicker and a driveshaft loop within 6 inches of the front U-Joint. If you are going quicker than a 10.00 or 135 mph you will need a "roll cage" not just a roll bar. You will also need the cage certified with a serial number if your quicker than a 10.00 as well as a NHRA License. A neck coller is also required at 9.99 or 135mph. A master cut-off or (kill switch) is required at 9.99 or 135mph. A parachute is required for 150mph or faster.
If you plan on going faster (Up to a 7.50 or slower) you will also need to run a funny car type cage. Im not sure how quick you can go with just a 10 point but I believe it is an 8.50 or slower. If you need to go quicker than 8.50 you should really buy the SFI book that will apply to your chassis. Assuming you dont make it a tube chassis you will probably get the SFI 25.5.
If you run a rollcage you will also need to swap to a 5 point belt type and need a window net and a fire jacket. At 9.99 you will need the jacket and pants meeting sfi 3.2A/5, and gloves meeting SFI 3.3/1.
http://www.nhrasportcompact.com/2007/rules/index.html
Here is a complete rule book for the NHRA Sony Xplod series.
You will need a flywheel scatter shield at 11.49 and quicker and a driveshaft loop within 6 inches of the front U-Joint. If you are going quicker than a 10.00 or 135 mph you will need a "roll cage" not just a roll bar. You will also need the cage certified with a serial number if your quicker than a 10.00 as well as a NHRA License. A neck coller is also required at 9.99 or 135mph. A master cut-off or (kill switch) is required at 9.99 or 135mph. A parachute is required for 150mph or faster.
If you plan on going faster (Up to a 7.50 or slower) you will also need to run a funny car type cage. Im not sure how quick you can go with just a 10 point but I believe it is an 8.50 or slower. If you need to go quicker than 8.50 you should really buy the SFI book that will apply to your chassis. Assuming you dont make it a tube chassis you will probably get the SFI 25.5.
If you run a rollcage you will also need to swap to a 5 point belt type and need a window net and a fire jacket. At 9.99 you will need the jacket and pants meeting sfi 3.2A/5, and gloves meeting SFI 3.3/1.
Here is a complete rule book for the NHRA Sony Xplod series.
You will need a flywheel scatter shield at 11.49 and quicker and a driveshaft loop within 6 inches of the front U-Joint. If you are going quicker than a 10.00 or 135 mph you will need a "roll cage" not just a roll bar. You will also need the cage certified with a serial number if your quicker than a 10.00 as well as a NHRA License. A neck coller is also required at 9.99 or 135mph. A master cut-off or (kill switch) is required at 9.99 or 135mph. A parachute is required for 150mph or faster.
If you plan on going faster (Up to a 7.50 or slower) you will also need to run a funny car type cage. Im not sure how quick you can go with just a 10 point but I believe it is an 8.50 or slower. If you need to go quicker than 8.50 you should really buy the SFI book that will apply to your chassis. Assuming you dont make it a tube chassis you will probably get the SFI 25.5.
If you run a rollcage you will also need to swap to a 5 point belt type and need a window net and a fire jacket. At 9.99 you will need the jacket and pants meeting sfi 3.2A/5, and gloves meeting SFI 3.3/1.
holy crap!!!!
Supposedly any NHRA licensed track "should" kick you out if your running an 11.49 or quicker without at least a 6 point yes. If you go to track days where someone rents the track out I dont think they care but for all time trials or any type of elimination they should be kicking people yes. For instance at the BS Shootout I dont think you need any type of safety stuff even if you should need it. Its kinda a kick in the pants for all of us that do install all the safety stuff.
The window net is designed to make sure you cant get flung out of the car I suppose. There are also other regulations if you run in a certain class. Like Halon (Fire suppression), types of fuel you can run, size of turbos, etc, etc...
The window net is designed to make sure you cant get flung out of the car I suppose. There are also other regulations if you run in a certain class. Like Halon (Fire suppression), types of fuel you can run, size of turbos, etc, etc...
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I've been reading the rules for the last few weeks and it sure seems that it's difficult to meet all of the guide lines and do all of the fun stuff you want for the street. Forget about meth injection if you racing in just about any bracket class. Almost makes you want to say forget about it and just drive it on the street. Buschur's is building my car right now, cage and all, but I'll still need 'chute, window net, neck collar, fire suit, kill switch on rear of car, and the list just keeps going. Since the Evo can easily go into the 9s, the safety list is long and expensive.
The cage is the big one... the rest is piddly crap. The parachutes are removable for daily driving. Many of them the whole thing will come off otherwise you would only have a plate sticking out in the rear of the car (would look like a bike rack sorta). The firesuit obviously has nothing to do with daily driving, not does the window net, neck coller, kill switch, etc...
If you dont mind having a cage than the other stuff is pretty much only going to be seen / used at the track.
Meth injection is kinda worthless at the track anyways considering most people will use race gas at the track
Meth injection would be to mimick race gas without actually using it. Honestly if your getting the cage installed you should do the rest of it just to have it.... why put a cage in the car and get kicked out of racing because you didn't spend the $60 for a window net
If you dont mind having a cage than the other stuff is pretty much only going to be seen / used at the track.
Meth injection is kinda worthless at the track anyways considering most people will use race gas at the track
Meth injection would be to mimick race gas without actually using it. Honestly if your getting the cage installed you should do the rest of it just to have it.... why put a cage in the car and get kicked out of racing because you didn't spend the $60 for a window net
Not all cages are for drag racing. If you plan on racing in any organized motorsport contact them and get their specs for the cage that you need. Then find a reputable builder with experience in cages and talk to them about what needs to happen.
If one wants a cage for no other reason than for looks, please reconsider. Driving on the street with a full cage is a bad idea.
If one wants a cage for no other reason than for looks, please reconsider. Driving on the street with a full cage is a bad idea.
Well a cage would be safer assuming you always use the 5 point belts, wear a helmet and only use the two front seats and have the proper padding where you need it 
There is a reason why SFI has cut off speeds for each cage design... the faster you go, the more energy the cage needs to absorb.

There is a reason why SFI has cut off speeds for each cage design... the faster you go, the more energy the cage needs to absorb.
Because typically one does not drive with a helmet on when on the street - greater risk of head injury. Bars will usually protrude out farther than your interior trim, creating a hazard if your head happens to bang against any portion of the bar - padded or unpadded - in the event of an accident.
I've been reading the rules for the last few weeks and it sure seems that it's difficult to meet all of the guide lines and do all of the fun stuff you want for the street. Forget about meth injection if you racing in just about any bracket class. Almost makes you want to say forget about it and just drive it on the street. Buschur's is building my car right now, cage and all, but I'll still need 'chute, window net, neck collar, fire suit, kill switch on rear of car, and the list just keeps going. Since the Evo can easily go into the 9s, the safety list is long and expensive.
I have the same problem but if you are going to run and you think that you will get into the low 10's high 9's then you have to do it!! ALL!
ALso I know this may sound strange but have you ever driven a 9 sec car? If you are coming from a stock 13 sec Evo and think that your just going to get in and run a 9 sec pass well your going to have a big learning curve that will probably take you about one racing season beleive me so if thats your situation then you can wait and practice on street tune and even pump/meth and lay off at the end until you get your launch down. Forget about the C-16 tune until you are ready.
If you have experience driving like Dan Buschur, Eric AMS, Curt Brown, Big AL and Dan to name a few then just get everything done that you need to to run at all the tracks you want to. I'm sure Buschur can tell you where to get everything you need.
I'm saying this not to be a smart a** but thinking only about your own safety and for risk of breakin stuff on that great car Buschur built for you.
Good luck with it.


