Just curious what amps ya'll are running and if you needed to go with a larger alternator to power the car/system. I'm trying to plan a big system for my Evo IX and am choosing amplifiers carefully to try to avoid needing a larger alternator...but I also want big power for a nice 3-way component set up front and a kick a$$ sub(s) in the trunk. Let me know what you are running and if you needed a bigger alternator. Thanks guys

 

Im only running a 1000 watt amp through one 12 in subwoofer and it sucks juice like no other. You may wanna look into upgrading the stock charging system if you are planning on a high power system.

 

How do you get a better alternator?

 

look into high efficancy amps and do the big three..youll be fine!!

 

this is from the thread "where do I get a high output alternator" from a week ago....


"Here are the specs:

DIRECT FIT (no bracket/harness fabrication, DIRECT BOLT IN)
$649 (no core)
Turn on speed (500 RPM)
Idle output (120amps)
output at 1500 RMP (150amps)
Charge Voltage set point (14.4V)
Rated output (2400Va) 167amps @ 14.4V
Weight 18lbs


This is all from www.highoutputalternator.com"

 

High output alternators should also be mated with a power cable (alt --> battery) upgrade to 4ga. There are many places which will re-wind your existing alternator for higher output.

 

You shouldn’t need a bigger alt: I am running 2 sound stream amps, 2 (10') thunder 8500 and 1 (5.0) capacitor. I have no power drain what so ever when running all the electrical (lights, air etc)
Just build it right and you wont have any power drain. use power distribution blocks for the positive and negative.

 

Its a simple equation. What power is produced, and what power is being consumed. Produced power should be equal or more than power consumed

If the alternator is not producing enough power, power will be pulled from the battery untill the batery is drained, then your lights will dim, your stereo will cut out, and if you turn off your car, you will not be able to start it again as the battery is drained.

I personally am running 1400W RMS power with my amps.

Watts = volts * amps. as our cars are running 12-14V (approximately) that means my stereo is is pulling 100-120 amps when being used moderatly. This, along with my headlights, instruments, other lighting, and power accessories means that on the stock alternator, my system would be using all of the exsisting alternator output, plus some of the battery to function. A capacitor is only for momentary power spikes like if a single bass note needs excess power.

now, here are ways you can get away with running a stock alternator with a moderate to large system:

1) you don't run your amps at their capabilities (they are not drawing the amps they can)

2) you don't care for clear music (consistant power is a key for clear music with good amps)

3) you are running multiple batteries, or a large battery with tons of amp hours (and not always running your system at it's capabilities)

I am running a 1 farrad capacitor, Thicker wiring, distribution blocks, (and so on and so forth) with this system as well. I am a fan of CLEAN music, and everything in my system is designed around clarity.

 

Good info Tempe. I'll be running somewhere around 1000W RMS with one JL Audio 500/1 and one JL Audio 300/4 amps. I think I'll be safe on the stock alternator. I'll also get a 1-farad capacitor for the 500/1 amp and will also be getting an Optima deep cycle battery. That should do it for me.

Anyone happen to know how many cold cranking amps the stock battery puts out and how many amps the stock alternator puts out? I have an Evo IX with the SSL package. Thanks!!!

 

If you want a high-output alternator, search Iraggi Alternators on Ebay. I purchased mines from them and I love it. It's a 80amp idle and 180amp at 2000rpm. I think I bought mine for $365. I know it wasn't more than that. You won't find the alternator on Ebay, you're going to have to e-mail them or call them for more info.

 

Brand x electrical is what I'm running for an alt. and Im running a cmaxx lithium bank to support 2 sundown salt 4k amps and my volts still drop when I listen to music. Big systems need big ALTS.

 

Add some Capacitors, only time you need big power is on Bass Licks. Let the Caps handle that and leave everything else alone.

Mitsuatb

 

That's not true, the factory alt is pretty weak sauce as is. The fuse is only 100 amps, so sticking with the 80% rule that's 80 amps. 80 amps at 14.4 volts is only 1100 watts. Subtract what it takes to run the car and what your left with is very little. Tittle of the thread is big stereo, so yeah the big 3 ( alternator included) def needs upgrade if you want to be able to bump and not mess your car up.

If you look into the JDM importer sites there are aftermarket alts available there too. Considering they are JDM I would probably assume they would be good quality, but I'd do some research before dropping dough.

 

How much of a sound system is safe? The most I'm looking at is maybe 400 watts, more likely 300. (Alpine mini amp + underseat or spare tire sub). I'm assuming this is very conservative compared to other systems.

 

Why Does a Car Audio Power Capacitor Work?

A car audio power cap works by storing large amounts of electrical power which it can then deliver to power hungry components when called upon to do so. They have an advantage over typical lead acid storage batteries because they have very low internal resistance. This allows them to deliver large amounts of power (current) very quickly. Much faster than a car's charging system can deliver that same amount of current.

http://www.caraudiohelp.com/car_audio_capacitors.html