The MRP-M450 is rated at (2) 20amp fuses
The MRP-F450 is rated at (2) 25amp fuses

So, he's got a total of 90amps at worst case scenario. He'll never draw all of those 90amps. Probably never even close to that full 90amps.

 

is the alternator the only option for those of on the mini-batteries?

Sorry, don't mean to hi-jack!

Thanks

 

If you have a mini-battery and high-power stereo, yes you'll definitely need an alternator upgrade. The mini-batteries have nearly zero reserve power and you'll drain it rather quickly with even a medium sized stereo. So, yes, do your self a favor and upgrade the alternator. Than you shouldn't really have anything to worry about

 

So if you factor in his head unit also and he is still less than 90 A then he shouldn't need a new alternator? I see what you mean about never actually maxing out the Amplifiers' capacity but then what would cause the dimming?

I ask because I am planning a similar system and I would be hitting about the same Amperage draw...

 

I still think my dimming lights has more to do with the age of my battery rather than my draw. I mean - in my old car (03 Acura TL-S) I went through 2 batteries with stock everything electrical. When a battery gets old it holds a charge much less so when newer, so in my mind it's less able to hand out current when I turn the volume up, hence the dimming.

I'm getting an Optima Yellow some time this week so I'll have to see in a few months if that makes a difference. I have a feeling it will fix it for a few years, since I had the system installed 4-5 months ago and it's just now showing problems.

 

You might also consider cutting off your lows at 35 Hz or so, and reducing the gain on your sub amp -- I imagine that the ulra-low bass is the biggest power draw your alternator faces.

 

That's only true when the car is idling, or the engine is off. When the car is running (other than idling) if you still get dimming, it means that the alternator is not providing enough power; which in turn is slowly killing your battery, because it's trying to supply current for everything else as the alt is faltering.

 

I don't believe I get dimming at highway speeds - though it's hard to start at interior lights then.

I've got a turbo timer that has a voltage meter on it (came with the car - don't laugh). I'll have to take a look at that to see if I get a voltage dip.

And even with the new bat, I get dimming but it's much much lesser. I'm thinking I have to consider a HO alternator.

 

But those are the reason I got the w6v2.

 

Good to hear the new battery helped with the dimming of the lights. Before you go with a new alternator, like I said before try upgrading the Big 3 wires. Here's some information on it.

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID=73496&PN=1

If that doesn't do it, then you'll have to go with a HO alternator. Contact TempeRacerGuy who is a member on this forum. He set up a group buy a few months back for a HO alternator. 180amps would be sufficient in your case. He might be able to help you.

 

Thanks for the batt, and the help!