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AMP Mate N Lock Terminals for Headunit Install

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Old Jun 23, 2009 | 12:22 PM
  #1  
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AMP Mate N Lock Terminals for Headunit Install

I'm going to be installing a new head unit in my evo.

I know I can twist/tape or solder/tape or ferrule/tape to make the connections but I'd like to use a connector like this:



and the pins and terminals are pretty cheap but the crimper is an arm and a leg. I found what appears to be a good one for 145$, lol but I'm not going to spend over $150 just to install a headunit.

Does anyone have any suggestions on crimpers or know of a place to get one at non-rape-me prices?
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 11:16 AM
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Why do you want to use that instead of the normal ways? I wouldn't even spend $20 to install that.
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 11:27 AM
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I'm just being stupid really.

I can install it with solder/tape and be done with it....but I also have an arcade cabinet and wouldn't mind having the wiring be professional and modular
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 03:27 PM
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Well, the wiring is already modular. You have a plug in the back of the headunit, and a harness adapter plug at the factory plug, you just have to connect the wires between the two.
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 08:18 AM
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Why not get a metra:
LINK

solder that to the aftermarket deck harness?
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 08:26 AM
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Yeah, I'm going that route.

Thank you for the link.
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 08:31 AM
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You're welcome. I'm not a big fan of crimps myself. Solder and heat shrink just looks so much more... OE.
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 08:38 AM
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I notice you have an SE.

Did you just buy the harness, solder and slide in the HU?

How does that work exactly when there are 2 tweeters on the pillars?
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 08:55 AM
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My headunit came with the metra. Bought it through crutchfield.

Soldered the aftermarket harness and metra together the night before I was going to install the unit. You only need to transfer the brackets over from the factory deck. The tweeters are separated somewhere past the headunit, maybe before the pillar.

The only issue I had was how the deck sat in the stock position. The edges didn't quite fill the factory opening and looked unfinished. Plus the bezel that came with the deck wouldn't work. So I added spacers to make the deck "stick out" of the dash a little more, so that the bezel would clip on. Wish I had a picture to explain it but I just removed the deck.
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 09:11 AM
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Ha, that's great. That's what I wanted to hear. I haven't really been able to find concrete answers on this so it's been annoying me.
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