What does it control because I found it unpluged and was just curious. I know normally it would be used for the cruise control.

 

Top clutch switch is for turning on the car, if you have the switch unplugged, you can turn the car over without pressing the clutch, it's often good idea on Eclipse/Talon's because of "Crank Walk" issues, might want to search that. But that's what the switch does. Plugging it back in will make it so you have to press the clutch in for the car to turn over (engine starting).

 

Thanks for the help but you are wrong the bottom switch is for the cranking of the car. The top switch is wired into the ecu.

 

the top switch tells the ECU that the clutch is in and it leans out the fuel mixture for shifts.

 

How in the world that clutch switch has anything to do with crank walk? Do you even know wtf are you talking about? I think you need to do a search about crank walk or maybe go thru it and than you would know that a switch has nothing to do with it. Please dont post anything like that ever again.

 

jesus christ, come down, i'm just relaying message that i read regards to clutch switch on eclipse/talons, i never owned a 2g eclipse to really run into it my self.

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What is crankwalk?

It's when your precious engine goes boom. Not literally boom, but you get the idea. It's thrust bearing failure. What causes it to fail? Mainly the clutch (from my knowledge) because it puts an assload of stress on the crankshaft. Poor oil circulation is probably another possibility. Starting the car with the clutch in is bad too since no oil has been circulating, you're putting a lot of stress on the thrust bearing and then starting the motor. This is why all 2g turbo owners should disconnect their clutch start switch.

Have you had crankwalk?

Yes. CW is not a myth, it's very real. In my case it was a very bad case of CW. You see, when I got CW my transmission and clutch also blew. Not cool. I started noticed that my car liked to stall when i pushed the clutch in. Then a day or so later, was driving past the mall, downshifted to 3rd and heared a horrible loud ticking sound. Well decided it was time to go home and take a look. Got a couple blocks from my house, downshifted to 3rd and the shifter completely popped out and wolud not go into ay gear. The shifter was just "free" i guess you could say. Had no resistance at all. Came to a stop, the car stalled. I smelled clutch. Popped open the hood and nothing but smoke.

How do you prevent crankwalk?

I don't believe there's really any way to "prevent" crankwalk. But there are ways to make your engine last a hell of a lot longer.
*Disconnect the clutch start switch.
*Change oil every 3,000 miles and use only full synthetic (you know, the expensive stuff). Don't run the engine with low oil either.
*Don't sit in traffic with the clutch in. If you're going to be sitting anywhere for more than a minute I would say stick it in neutral and let the clutch out. There is no reason to sit with the clutch in for extended periods of time. All this is doing is putting stress on the thrust bearing and oil pressure is going down.
*If you've been sitting long enough for the oil pressure to drop, rev the engine just a bit to raise it, then push the clutch in. (This becomes a pain in the ***, but whatever helps is good). Oil is good for the engine
*Try not to beat the hell out of the car every single minute of every single day. No lauching from every red light, power/speed shifting, etc. I know this is difficlut for some people.
*Use only 92+ octane (this probably has nothing whatsoever to do with CW but the 4g63 likes the good ****...this is why they printed that nice little message under your gauges...PREMIUM UNLEADED FUEL ONLY and kiss your hard-earned money goodbye with $2.20+/gal in some states). DSM's aren't cheap to take care of.
*If you ever have to support your engine using a jack, don't do so by sticking the jack under the oil pan. Not even with a piece of wood. Don't take any chances of denting the oil pan. (Besides why would you want to hurt your baby?)
*Keep your DSM clean inside and out! (Even though this has nothing to do with CW, it'll keep those heads turned towards your car!)

"How do I know if I have crankwalk?"

Look for the typical signs.
*Engine stalls when coming to a stop
*Clutch engage point wanders around
*The tick of doom (don't confuse this with lifter tick. You'll know it when you hear the CW tick. It's a lot louder than lifter tick. What this really is - is the crank trigger plate rubbing on the crank angle sensor. Most people say this is usually the last sign you'll notice before your car won't run. I'd believe it.)
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now i know the guy's a retard,
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&q=crank...4fb2510f8bfc11

Thanks for clearing up that for me.

 

i didn't mean to cause anyone to be mis-informed, please listen to the actual guy who went through crankwalk problems him self... my searches on clutch switch only comes up with crankwalk related information. Sorry dude, as internet is full of mis-information.

 

also is involved in 2step

 

yeah, sorry about that, i didn't read your original question correctly of which switch.

 

i think it involved in the "no lift to shift" too

 

I myself had a 95 Talon TSI AWD that was a crankwalk victim, and it has always been a common belief that pushing in the clutch during start-up could increase the chances of it happening. My original engine started at 70K miles. After tons of machine work and testing on the same block, it started again at 77K miles. Finally, around 2001-2002 the 6-bolt swap was simplified and I was able to have a reliable 2G. Bottom line, it's been 10 years since then and the underlying causes of crankwalk still haven't been proven.

 

kind of an old thread.. but where is this second clutch switch? Ive had issues with my two step and a few members say this could be my culprit. Ive tried following the clutch pedal upward but don't really know what I'm looking for. Is it the same style switch that turns over the car when the clutch presses into it?

Does anybody have a picture or diagram of where its located?

 

Bumping this super old thread from 2012 as I am trying to resolve my 2-step issue (https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...t-working.html) and think it might be related to this secondary top switch.

As Apex has asked in post #12. Does anyone have a diagram or good description of where this switch can be located? I can't seem to find it under the dash. I've looked pretty well.



Edit:
Disregard. Found it. It's actually pretty deep in there, almost up behind the assembly. I made the discovery that my clutch assembly cracked.
(https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-cracking.html)

 

Question about the bottom switch (clutch interlock) which requires depressing the clutch pedal to start. Is it true that when you unplug this you need to put a jumper between the two pins of the connector? I’m trying to figure out why the harness connector near my unplugged bottom switch is jumped.

Top switch is also unplugged. Car is a IX and has NLTS and also does not need the clutch depressed to start.

 

bottom clutch switch can just be disconnected to remove clutch-to-start. earlier I jumped it and added a secret security switch (switched OFF to start). later I moded my starting circuit so it powers the starter more efficiently - this needed the clutch switch plug to be jumped to complete the circuit, so my security switch needed to be switched ON to start