Ok got it. Likely due to the remote start feature of my Viper alarm and the remote start safety switch it has, the clutch interlock switch needs to be jumped like that.

My top switch is simply unplugged. Is that the way to enable the necessary features to get a NLTS tune? I want to make sure that top switch or connector does not need to be jumped.

 

I dont know of a reason to disconnect the top ECU clutch switch. maybe you have a pre-Tephra tune

 

I also suspect the same. I also hate it, as it causes my RPMs to not drop when I put the clutch in.

I just got my tactrix and reflash connector setup ready. I am going to try to remove the NLTS stuff from my tune. Any suggestions on where specifically to look?

Then I plan to plug the top clutch switch back in.

 

Plug it in, see what it happens.
I currently have some pre-tephra tune and its has a rev hang after WOT. i think its ok for racing. I'm at a point where I need to sort some oil leak so I can get a tephra tune and get on the dyno.
I'm not an expert in getting into the tunes but I have tried. A lot of times these are copy & paste dragracer to dragracer and nobody really knows whats in there. it would be nice to get a clean slate

 

Update on my side: I discovered that it was my bottom switch (interlock clutch to start switch) that was simply unplugged. I plugged it back in and now I correctly need to press the clutch to start again.

I thought the switch above the fusebox on the side of the clutch pedal was the "bottom" switch but it is actually the "top" switch.

So my top switch is not only unplugged but the two wires going to the connector that plugs into the switch are jumped. Meaning that the two ECU pins that get feedback from the top clutch switch always have continuity. Do we know why this is?

Again is it safe to assume that it’s due to a pre Tephra NLTS tune?

I won’t try to simply plug it back in until I remove the jumper wire that is tee-ed into the two wires. I may not do this because it could be risky lol.

 

As i mentioned earlier there is a fix to the relay wiring that requires the plug to be jumped. maybe you have that fix. otherwise i dont know whats going on with your car.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...l#post11975179

 

Why would this "top" switch that tells the ECU when the clutch is pushed in have anything to do with the starter? It should not. It is simply telling the ECU something about how to control the air/fuel ratios or in my case possibly allowing revs to hang after shifting to neutral. My understanding is that only the "bottom" switch (which is the clutch interlock switch) is related to starting the car with/without the clutch depressed.

 

i'm referring to the bottom clutch plug. Again I have no idea whats going on with your other 'top' plug. you should do a search, personally i've never heard of this. i asked my OG dragracer tuner and he just laughed at me. NLTS still needs a signal to tell the ECU to cut ignition (If I understand what hes saying)

 

Ah, ok. I have tried to search and still searching. I think it’s jumped so that the launch control can be activated at any speed and with the clutch in or out.