Okay so I fixed this issue a while ago and it came back after about 3 years but this time the Ignition switch isnt worn out like the first time. Anyways, While I had the switch out to inspect it, I was turning it over w/o the key
(For everyone who isn't aware, you can put anything in the slot and it will turn over like normal to start your car, apparently this is how you "hotwire" an Evo 8/9)
And every time that I turned it, I could see this White Electric ARC in the switch as well, but even after reinstalling it, It was still Arcing when i turned it over normally with the key, so does this mean that it's broken or not working correctly?
When I turn the key, it doesn't Crank/turn over or click, it just makes that whine noise.

 

Are you talking about Evo Problems, Or... "Other" problems 🤔 bc I think you explained urself too well. The expression TMI comes to mind. And I'm not sure anyone should try to after saying ​​​​​​​
LoL 😂 I'm just saying

​​​​​​​
​​​​​​I've had this happen too, and in my experience, it will only throw this code if you are holding the key over for too long.
The worst case scenario is bad tho. I should know bc I've had to replace not just the sensor, but the little gears as well and that sucked *****. I had English Racing do it for me and of course it cost way too much!
My advice for everyone who has had this Intermittent starting problem that 90% of the time leads to Not Starting at all, is that when you are attempting to start the car, DO NOT HOLD THE KEY IN START POSITION FOR MORE THAN 2 SEC ​​ each time you attempt to start it.
now if I can only figure out which of these problems is MY PROBLEM, and how to fix it.

 

so we all go thru this process. from key cylinder contacts, terminals, battery, add-ons... IMO this is actually a moving target. one day its solved, then it comes back. the fuse box is not sealed properly so I believe everyone who washes their engine, or drive/park in the rain will eventually experience this issue since the contacts are going bad. too much power is lost due to bad/additional connections, this is why the HD relay fix works... it only needs a tiny bit power that is left going thru your ignition to flick a switch.
I now run a $50 battery and it starts the car fine during winter mornings on e85, batt connected all night

 

So I spent the last 2 weeks going through my entire Ignition/Starter system and I've pretty much solved the problem for every common scenario. ¹) If you are turning the key and you aren't hearing the starter click or w/e, the 1st place to look is the Ignition switch.By now everyone should know the problem with our cars ignition switch is very common. So rip the steering column panels off and check the single little screw that holds the switch in place. If it's loose, that could be your problem. Tighten that irritating turd up and see if it turns over.If not, remove the switch and see if it's worn out. Easy to determine, if the rectangular slot is worn into more of an oval shape, chances are you'll need a new one. But first, stick a screwdriver in the slot and attempt to start the car. If it starts, than the switch is your problem. I saw a post where the guy cuts a piece of tin into a long strip, folds it in half and sticks it into the slot to get rid of the slop & it seemed to work for him & it's a viable option if you're broke(if u own an Evo chances are high LoL), but if you can afford a new switch I recommend doing so! ²) if the car still doesn't start after checking out the switch, we will move on to the Starter Relay. It's the relay closest to the front in the skinny box under the hood.You can check if the relay is good by using a 9v battery and connecting one end of the relay to the Neg— and the other end to the Pos+ and listening for the 'click' sound. If the relay is good, you should check the battery terminal connection. One of the fuses on the battery terminal goes to the starter(ACD is the other if u have ACD).Ive seen threads like this one dedicated to bypassing the Relay or allowing it to recieved 12v if for some reason it's not getting it. Best way to check is to use a voltmeter and check the small black wire connected to the spade on the starter. If it's getting 12V than that's not the problem. Next check the actual 12v power line to the Starter. It's the only other connection to the starter. Make sure the bolt is tight & check the voltage to it. If it's not getting 12v than there's a loose/bad connection from the starter to the fuse box. If it IS getting 12v than the next step is the Starter itself.³) If your starter has trouble in the Cold and works better after heating up, chances are that the brushes inside are getting gummed up and need to be replaced. When it's cold like anything becomes stiffer and when it warms up becomes more pliable which explains why it'll start once warm.You can either buy a new starter, which is going to cost you around $100-$250 & it's the best route if you can afford it. Or you can rebuild the starter for around $30-$40.You can buy the Mitsubishi Lancer Starter Rebuild Parts here. You most likely only need the brushes but I recommend replacing the solenoid as wellBrushes pn 5503063ASolenoid pn 66033392 So this pretty much covers every reason for the Evo not to start when we're talking Ignition/Starter issues. I hope this helps someone else figure out the problem faster than it took me. I had so much going on and so Lifetime to work on my car that I was pop starting my Evo for 2 weeks & had to leave it running LoL

 

like I said, we all go thru this process where the end results is we think can fix anything until the issue comes out again.

I bet you $5 my car would start with the old 60kmi ignition contact i removed

One thing you may need to consider is that relays have contacts inside that can wear off or maybe some random mechanic swapped out your parts. Dont get me started on this but i lost wiring/clutch line brackets and got 'someone elses' broken Valve cover plastic cover IN AN EVO SHOP where the technicians are EVO guys. Years later (just this week) i'm discovering parts they've destoyed or carelessly put together

 

2006 evo - 140k on my odo, original owner, mostly stock. I experienced the same start issue symptoms for the last several months.
I replaced the alternator , battery leads, battery, and did an entire electrical trace for any parasitic drains. Nothing.

I had to buy a portable battery with me to jump start every other time or I'd get stranded. This tells me the starter was fine because it would work when I connect the portable battery - which means it wasn't getting enough current.

This thread is a lifesaver, and I wish I found it sooner. I zip tied the ignition switch and it starts up much more reliably. New ignition switch on the way. Thank you gents.

 

So far, so good with your solution, ViciousLSD. I added a 30amp fuse on the red power line (what do you guys recommend?). I've also been enjoying the no-clutch-in-to-start feature of this. Thanks for it!

 

cool. No more slow cranking I hope.
Presentation-wise, you could have drilled the bottom of the case to hide all the wires. BTW you need to seal that hole in case you wash your engine
I cant confirm right now but isnt that bolt for #4 fused already? I was planning to add a fuse thats why my line#4 has a crimp terminal. If I get around to it i'd keep the fuse in the box to keep it looking clean

 

A 30A fuse should be sufficient, but carry an extra just in case.

Just as a side note, since installing a HD 30A relay back in 2014 (post #148), I've not had a single recurrence of this issue.

 

I never had slow cranking, but it does seem like my cranking is a split second faster every time. It feels very robust. Don't worry, I never wash the engine bay, although I did think about what would happen in a thunderstorm. The hood rubber seal seems like it can block most of the water going towards this box. You guys let me know if this is not the case though. I ordered another relay box cover just to have as a backup for any purpose in the future. It was really cheap and surprisingly still available.

Let me know if you can confirm that we do not need the extra fuse on that #4 line. (that #4 bolt sits on a 60 amp fusible link btw).

Also, if you drill the bottom of the relay box, where would you drill it? I haven't even figured out how to detach that box from the main fuse box yet, despite toying with some of the plastic attachment clips there.

Overall, this mod has been so nice. I had stopped driving my Evo because I didn't wanna be stranded anymore, and in the rare event I did drive it, I was pre-planning my parking spots so I can roll start it if it came to it. Not anymore! Ted B, that's really encouraging to hear!

 

Since your battery is close by then you can just take the the power to #4 there the #4 bolt powersource is just IF you want a completely clean solution
If you look at my #4 wire, thats exactly where I drilled the hole out of the case. I think TedB had some pictures earlier showing the tabs to separate the 2 cases.
If youre going to add a fuse then its better to take the power from the bolt pre-60amp fuse. I would use flag terminals to hold the mini fuse (like the terminals on your relay) and just lay it on top of the other fuses. I keep several backup fuses in that case btw. you could also test your old relay, that way you know its really nothing to do with "HD relays".
yes its good to know how this area works. If your relay or starter switch dies on you, you know you can just tap terminals #4 and #5 to spin the starter

 

bonus feature : you can add a security switch to replace the clutch switch.
When youre done with the relay stuff, look into parts store powersports batteries, so you have a solution when your battery dies on you. I use a ~$55 battery and loving the idea i dont need special batteries. for that you need to get rid of the standard battery terminal and maybe add a battery cutoff switch for bonus convenience

 

This was so helpful you have no idea how much I appreciate it this info. I had the exact same problem only thing I did was extra was open the switch itself and clean the copper contacts with sand paper install everything and problem solve

 

Recently had a no-crank condition. After driving the car a lot last Sunday I was surprised. I inspected the ignition switch and it was indeed a little loose. Removed clutch safety switch. Removed ignition switch and tested starting with key near. Heard relays, fuel pump and the like working had me less confused. Inspected starter motor and found solenoid mounting bolts backed out. Thankfully the upper bolt to the solenoid doesn't have enough room to fully back out due to the front motor mount bracket. Holding the solenoid flush with the starter motor was enough to get the magnetic plunger to engage flywheel and it started. Gravely road and not using thread sealant during my last rebuild got me there. From what I've noticed, the starter/flywheel area seems to vibrate the most after adding a few stiffer mounts. Faulty ignition switch would have been easier but an informative thread here.

 

Works like a charm for me so far! I thought it was my starter switch and checked to see if it moved as well as replaced it. No help.

This no cut method works and is pretty simplistic.

Thanks!