My issue seems not to do with dropped voltage. Jumping batt+ to the output terminal of the relay wasn't fixing my no-start.

So, I want to troubleshoot the starter/solenoid, but it still starts intermittently, so I don't want to keep trying to see if it doesn't start, and only run the engine for a minute.

Can I pull a fuse for the injectors so that I can have the starter run but the engine not fire? Where is the injector fuse? And is this an injector fuse or a spark plug fuse?

And if I pull this fuse, is gas still being injected into the cylinders? Would I be flooding it by doing a few short test starts?

 

You don't need to go through all that. If jumping B+ to the output terminal of the starter relay does not trigger the starter, then the problem can be only:

- Bad wire/connection from relay to solenoid
- Bad solenoid
- Bad starter
- Bad power/ground connection to starter

 

I do see a good amount of rust on the M terminal, but trying to unscrew the nut seemed to turn the bolt too. I don't want to force it and break it completely. Is that bolt expected to move with the nut at all?

Ideally I would clean up all the contact points on the solenoid. I also wonder why that wire between solenoid and starter is exposed like that. A bit weird.

 

I can't recall if the bolt turns as well, but it sounds like your components and connections need a good cleaning. Clean the terminals, clean the solenoid wire connector and terminal, and keep in mind that copper corrosion at the end of a large cable usually means corrosion under the insulation, and that will cause trouble.

 

If you have not already looked, be sure to pull the starter relay fuse, look at the fuse to be sure the prongs are not corroded and look at the fuse housing to be sure no corrosion in down in there.


But first, try all the things Ted told you to review.

 

I probably don't even have to mention that the M-terminal bolt snapped off with the nut

Thinking of getting something like this to protect the threads:

http://www.componentforce.com/catego...-caps---metric

 

Welcome to corrosion.

 

The S connector cable also pretty much disintegrated in my hand. It's a wonder they don't put some rubber covering around an 18 gauge wire that sits underneath a car, exposed to water and salt, with a millimeter of it exposed, just waiting for resistance to build up, or for it to corrode through.

My problem was likely that wire coming off the starter, which didn't run current through the coils, which then didn't attract the plunger and conduct power between B to M terminals.

So an important piece to check.

Oh, and my starter was mounted by one bolt, lol. Used cars, gotta love em.

 

So I realized that the S connector wire is 12, or at least 14 gauge, and it coming apart in my hand was likely the real culprit. A thick cable like that breaking as soon as you breathe on it, must have had 2 strands of copper holding it on.

So this is an important check: continuity and resistance from the starter relay terminal 5 to this connector.

 

Back in here once again

Okay, so at first i knew that the switch was the the problem after diagnosing it. Worked great for 3 weeks. Then back to the problem again. I was like screw it maybe from it being misaligned so long it was broke. So i bought a new one. Same problem...

I know my starter is fine. So i decided to check for another parasitic draw on my car....

Well come to find out i was pulling .080 Amps with the car off.. I don't drive my car every day and now since it is getting colder the battery obviously isn't as strong as in the summer.

I always just leave my tactrix cable plugged in. Found in another post someone else was having the same issue.

The tactrix cable was pulling all this damn current from my car. So hopefully this is the reason why my car wouldn't start. I will report back.

Now with the tactrix cable out, my car is only pulling .01 A of curent.

 

An 80ma drain is quite a lot. It will drain the battery if allowed to sit for a long time, but it won't prevent the car from starting if the battery is charged. Anyway, I didn't know this about the Tactrix cable. Good to know!

 

Thanks Ted B. This forum is very informative. I was having starting issues with my 03. I followed the steps and found that I had multiple problems. First problem and easiest to diagnose was a bad starter, tapping on it seemed to always fix the problem so swapped in a new one. After the swap, car still wouldnt start. Checked the ignition switch and it was good. Read about the clutch switch and decided to give that a shot next. Unplugged the switch and BAM fires every time. Thank goodness for this post

 

I have been having that exact same problem with my 2005 evo 9mr. Sometimes starts right away and some other times literally have to turn the key 20 times.. gets very annoying... Gonna try that and let you know how it went....

 

Great post!!! i pushed up the wires and tuened the swtich clockwise and its been starting up like a champ for the last week!!! Seems like the problem because prior to this the car was slow to start and at times didnt want to start at all!!

 

Hi Ted, guess what? The solution worked for my outlander 2004 as well!! I think, God sent you to this world for solving this problem - that was the single objective he had in mind! I cant help but imagine how many people must have spent how much money changing batteries, plugs, relay's, starters etc trying to solve this and would have continued to do so but for your existence in this universe. You are a gift from the heavens my friend!!