If you hadn't specifically cited my comments in your initial post, we wouldn't be here.

 

Holly crap! I appreciate both of you trying to help me out, but my question was a simple question. No need to go crazy over it. Like they stated above, i just wanted to see if it was recomended or not.

As of right now, I still have not added the sub. I just want the sub in there since it is easily available and it will add a little more "thump" when needed. I do the occasional Drag strip but thats about it, not into the whole "strip your car until its empty" so the weight wouldnt be a problem. Either way, I should be able to just unplug it and take it out.

 

Will it give you more 'thump when needed?" It definitely will when the car is standing still, and I'm willing to bet that you'll hardly know it's on when the car is moving. At least not without some tuning. Good luck.

 

I origionally looked at the thread and wondered... why?! you bought a "light weight" mini battery to save 10 lbs but you're gunna throw in a sub ~12-15 plus amp ~5-8 lbs... in the game of massive power every pound counts but on the street i guess why not. If i were you (and this may be just a canadian thing...) i would revert to fullsize battery and run with the system. The mini battery may be able to hold up when car is running but lets say you stop in a parking lot/beach/car meet........ and you leave the stereo running, you may get a few minutes before the jumper cables get pulled out. I had a 2x12" setup with a 1000w monoblock amp and on stock sized battery i got around 15-20 minutes TOPS, couldn't see a mini battery taking 5 minutes to drain. I would go with a red/yellow top optima battery if i were you...

/rant (sorry...)

 

I had the nisei mini battery in my evo. My evo is not a daily drive car. got tired of having to keep charging the battery every week. So I invested in one of these:

http://www.jmfabrications.com/site/i...mart&Itemid=58

Fitted perfectly with my intercooler piping etc. Even after a week of not driving the evo, she starts first time on the turn

 

The lower the load, the bigger the current draw. A sensitive driver installed in an efficient fashion running at 4 Ohms will draw MUCH less current than an insensitive woofer running at 1 Ohm. So, really, 1000w into what? If it's into a low load, the battery will drain somewhat quickly. Seeing how our alternators aren't huge and the fuel pump needs ~6A to redline, running a big amp configured in an ignorant manner can have harmful effects even on the drivetrain. In the OP's case, a small amp at 4 Ohms will hardly draw enough current to notice. Whether it's worth doing is another story, altogether. There are more effective ways to get better sound, like sealing/deadening the doors.

Good post, BTW.

[RANT] Edit: I've talked about Car Audio, as an industry, rewriting audio to suit its sales goals. After years of 're-educating" the public, we're now down to a solitary determinate - power. Is this a 2,000 watt amp? Is that a 1,000 watt sub? As if power in itself is even a constraint to consider. But, it's easy for folks to understand and comparing one number to another needs no further explanation. This being said, it's not how audio works, which may in part explain why car audio almost as a rule sounds like utter ****.[/RANT]

 

Why you don't run two (2) odyssey mini battery in your car so it will support your sound system. If you are not racing your car everyday then do this set-up. Any good critics or comments?

 

On that case, why not just run a good full-size battery? To be perfectly honest, I'd never install a mini battery in my own car. No reason to.

 

I see what you saying man, but if you want more room for your big IC pipe then you'll have to install the mini battery and another mini battery in the trunk to support your sound system.

 

I haven't been really into the audio scene. I ran a 600 watt amp with a 12 inch Kicker subwoofer and stock battery. Question is, would a capacitor help your situation with a mini battery? Or is 400 watts simply not enough to warrant a capacitor?

 

An aftermarket UICP doesn't really do anything for performance. It's almost silly. One buys a mini battery to install an UICP that doesn't do anything, yet he has to compromise his electrical system for some added bling. Ever seen Bryan's (from GST) engine bay? It looks stock. Of course his Evo is hardly stock, but the point stands - there's no need to change parts that don't need changing.

[OT] FWIW, my personal modding philosophy runs along the same lines - change as little as possible to achieve a given goal. As such, my engine bay looks stock (though it's not), as does my Evo for the most part. The car runs and looks better than it did when it left the showroom [literally]. I see folks compromising their cars by bolting on every available part, whether it's necessary or not, whether it's effective or not, and then trying to figure out why their cars are not as reliable and why they run like crap. Well, duh. There's no free lunch. [/OT]

A cap won't hep. There's no reason to have one on a stock charging system, or in most cases have one, period.

Caps are a fun audio story. Some years ago, a cap manufacturer sponsored several competitive bodies. As such, the appearance of a cap in the install was featured prominently on the score sheets. Soon everyone had a cap, because not having one meant not getting as many points as the next guy. It didn't take long for the car audio market to respond, as it does so well, and for a time almost all installs had some kind of a cap. Even if you think about this on an intuitive level, how is a stock electrical system that can't keep up with the demands of the gear supposed to constantly charge a hugeass cap, too? That's car audio for ya.

 

Well, all I can say is that it really depends on the taste of the owner. Some thinks this is better than the other and vice versa but the bottomline is whatever makes you happy, besides its your own car......................

I rest my case.

 

I'm not sure what you mean, not that I disagree on general grounds. UICPs not doing anything for performance isn't up for debate. It's a fact. A LICP might get ya 3-4 consistent HP on a stock-ish car. It's not a matter of taste. OTOH, installing useless parts is a matter of taste, and on a personal level I support it wholeheartedly. It makes the forum more fun and less Evos on the road only benefits my own car in the long run.

 

I run a JL 500/1 with a W3 12" sub, and it sounds great even at speed. The only time it's drowned out is at full WOT (I have a MAP o2 dump).

I run mine off of a small bat. and honestly, I wouldn't suggest it unless you never run your car stereo with the car off. The bat. isn't meant to handle the draw, and even at idle it noticeably dims the lights (and the idle) when it hits hard.

Short route UICP's are good for running different bypass valves (while not completely necessary), and if the 15-20lb difference in bat. weights between mini and full size matter to you, they're good for that too.

Personally, I'm going to eventually run a trunk mounted full size bat., and sell my mini, as soon as I can figure out a way to mount it clean lol.

 

Sure, one can drown out the car essentially listening to distortion the entire time, sucking every amp of current from the battery, and testing the car's chassis/ build quality in the process. As you have an open dump, that concept of diminished structural integrity isn't exactly foreign to your Evo. Or, one can take a less ignorant approach to achieving better sound without having to carry the weight and (literally) tearing the car a apart.


I remember talking to you about this about a year ago:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ware-help.html

Your amplifier has the facilities to tune the sub effectively for our environment. Might want to give it a shot, instead of just cranking the volume knob and dimming your lights.

Please see above as well as the post on load vs current. It's also no surprise it dims at idle. Again, see current draw and the function of an alternator.

An alternate bypass valve really isn't necessary in most applications, other than making the car run worse. The weight saving is there, but at what cost? We got here by discussing the use of two mini batteries. That's even more ridiculous.