True. But let's keep it simple and say an amplified 10" sub should be audible. Why is this such a big deal to you. Is this your "E" turf? Sorry. I'll go back to the alternative fuels and turbo/ engine forums. Are you on Honda tech too? Jeesh

 

8 inch jl audio w7 ftw. Awesome sound.

 

How does something like this work in a vacuum?

This is a technical forum. Folks come here for real information. As you don't know very much about this, putting it mildly, it might be better to not to show your ignorance for all to see. Just as you cited a passive x-over for the SSL speakers, where such an animal is an utter (off the shelf) impossibility, this falls into the same pool of (err...) knowledge.

Edit: In retrospect, I did make a mistake. 250w isn't 24.5dBw, it's actually closer to ~23.4dBw. My bad.

 

yes it is technical, but the OP of this thread was asking for some advise, nothing too technical. i offered my input and i still stand by it. i had the sub i recomended and know what it sounded like. it would sound great with what he wants, nothing that will rattle the trunk or drown out the other speakers. perfect for his kind of music also. you came in and decided to put it down. even after you admitted that you in all your infinite wisdom to buying the same thing. hmm. i would have thought you should have been able to figure out what it was going to sound like before you even got it.

and also, if you read my post on the crossover, i said to bypass the factory amp. its not impossible, ive seen it done many times

 

You see, the folks here have gone to some effort to configure a workable system in an Evolution. Having someone offer a 'solution" that has virtually no chance of success doesn't help anyone, except for the person trying to boost his post count.

The 8" W7 is a post above is another silly suggestion for this car. Since it has been discussed in detail in the past, there's no need to address it.

What does this have to do with the piece of beans? You're advocating the use of a passive x-over for speakers that:

1. Don't need one; can you guess why?
2. Exhibit electro-mechanical values that render an off the shelf replacement useless

Please stop posting this nonsense.

 

holy ****. nothing will be good enough for this guy

 

Guys, please keep this thread civil.

 

Well I have type r components with a 45x4 amp running them and it sounds great to me. I know I would benefit from more power to them but the money is low, so it works great for now. The speakers provide an amazing amount of feel to the music. I also am going to be putting in a type r sub with a m-500 amp to push it. I have a feeling that I will be able to hear it.

 

This isn't about sound in a static state. Of course you'll be able to hear a sub. Whether you'll be able to hear the beginning and end of a note, while the car is at speed, without ending up with a big blob of undefined, distorted (err...) low-ish frequencies is another question, altogether. True low frequencies will not be audible, or rather will not be felt, unless the car is tuned-off and sitting still. Then, when one considers that better sound can be had quite easily without having to listen to mud or necessitating the addition of a heavy, uncompromising box in the trunk, the project tends to lose its merit. Two ways to do this: Work with the car or work against it. Good luck.

 

Ha, well you write extremely well and make perfect sense. 99% of the people that have systems in their sports cars just want decent sound that can be felt and heard. I personally like the way my stereo sounds and it is plenty for me. If I wanted incredible sound while driving I would have a monster turbo with an O2 dump. But, 100 decibels while driving is kinda high.

 

There's is no decibel reading, as such, that exists as an undefined entity. The reading is weighted, usually A-weighted or C-weighted. This is why I posted a weighting, when citing a figure. There's more to this, but this explanation should suffice:

A-weighted (ie. dBA) omits the bulk of low frequencies
C-weighted does not omit the bulk of low frequencies

As such, 100 dBA can be excruciatingly loud, almost unbearable, while 100dB C-weighted can be indicative of a number of factors, in this case, the low frequencies omitted by the car itself, the road, the tires, etc. This same noise level is what (mostly) cancels-out the lows when the car is moving. If you have a bone-stock Evo, the effect isn't as vivid. Add exhaust, intake and thing become a lot more interesting.

While many sports cars have bearable stereos, few are as loud (inside) as a modded Evolution at speed. I could explain this further, as I've done ad nauseum, or you could follow the link on the first page and read a little more.

I'm sure you have no trouble hearing the four cranked type-Rs while their distortion component is masked by the noise floor. The human ear is MUCH more apt to respond to the mids/highs than the lows. If you're looking for balanced bass, meaning response congruent with the main speakers, it won't happen, period. Not when the car is moving. One can certainly overpower the car. Given the proposed sub/amp, that won't happen, either, without generating a good deal of distortion. Post back ofter you install the sub and let us know how it sounds, as the car rolls down the highway vs sitting still in your driveway.

Please don't misunderstand my point. You want to do this? Great. Best of luck and God speed. Other folks may want to achieve a similar, or better, sonic effect without adding the weight, intruding on the car, or encountering the drawbacks driven by a larger system of which there are many. Those folks are reading this, too.

 

Hey guys just wanted to chime in here and share my experiences with my sound system...

I have a Jensen head unit(I want to change it for an alpine)
Alpine speakers
4 channel 800W amp
1 channel 1000W amp
10" kicker sub

It does the job and it doesn't take too much trunk space. I made a vid, I was driving on the highway and the volume is at "20" which is half power on this head unit. As you can hear, the engine noise is almost un-existent and the sub is just what I wanted, good power and no rattle on the windows

 

I listened to the video. Where wasn't really any low-end. I mean, there was nothing below (a subjective) ~500Hz. FWIW, my PC (PIIx4/890FX) has an M-Audio sound card (configured for no compression), Swan M200 speakers, and a Dayton sub that can crush loose fillings.

Clearly, a lot of factors could have influenced the sound in the video, not the least of which being the response of the mic. As you seem happy with the representation, I'm not really sure what to say, except that one can get significantly better performance out of the stock speakers [in sealed/deadened doors] with a good amp and HU, while garnering low-end response that easily exceeds what we heard. All this, with less expense, less weight, less intrusion, less everything but the sound.

 

I wish the sound quality was better, you could definitely feel the sub in the car though, I think when the video converts into photo bucket it takes away a lot of the quality. I really want to change headunits though, my jensen with the screen is cool but its probably outdated as I bought it over 5 years ago, had it when I still had a Ralliart.

 

I really just like that all I can hear is the music, I drive five hours straight to south FL every two weeks and I just wouldn't be able to take the engine noise at 3750-4000rpm the whole way.