battery relocation issues
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 246
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From: Frederick, MD
battery relocation issues
I followed lots of different peoples relocation ideas and ran 0 or 2 gauge wire through fender to rear passenger side. put the oem positive terminal in a plastic electrical box and batter in a marine batter box with 200 amp circuit breaker.
The issue im having is the memory for my glow shift gauges (i know they are not the best) the color keeps resetting back to blue if i leave headlights on to auto shut off all the time, and it will happen about half the time if i keep headlights off.
the last time this happed my batter was a few days from dying. but this batter is under a year old and the car starts right up like normal and everything else works perfect.
Im wondering if getting rid of the rest of the slack in the power wire will help
The issue im having is the memory for my glow shift gauges (i know they are not the best) the color keeps resetting back to blue if i leave headlights on to auto shut off all the time, and it will happen about half the time if i keep headlights off.
the last time this happed my batter was a few days from dying. but this batter is under a year old and the car starts right up like normal and everything else works perfect.
Im wondering if getting rid of the rest of the slack in the power wire will help
Well, not sure about the gauge color thing, but I do know that getting rid of the extra slack in the battery cable really wont do much of anything to cure your problems. I would start looking at the gauges directly seeing they are the only thing having a problem.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 246
Likes: 1
From: Frederick, MD
I think I found the problem, I re connected the memory wire straight to wire coming off the battery and used a thicker wire. the glow shift instructions say to use a 3 amp fuse and i think it dropping or limiting something when I start the car back up.
I tried 5 amp fuse and would still reset back to blue, then a 7.5 amp and the resetting stopped if I turned the lights off myself. So I'm thinking a 10 amp fuse of higher might solve my problem, but are they any issues with going that high? (FYI I have 2 gauges running off the same lineand also tried contacting glowshift and they were no help at all)
I tried 5 amp fuse and would still reset back to blue, then a 7.5 amp and the resetting stopped if I turned the lights off myself. So I'm thinking a 10 amp fuse of higher might solve my problem, but are they any issues with going that high? (FYI I have 2 gauges running off the same lineand also tried contacting glowshift and they were no help at all)
I think I found the problem, I re connected the memory wire straight to wire coming off the battery and used a thicker wire. the glow shift instructions say to use a 3 amp fuse and i think it dropping or limiting something when I start the car back up.
I tried 5 amp fuse and would still reset back to blue, then a 7.5 amp and the resetting stopped if I turned the lights off myself. So I'm thinking a 10 amp fuse of higher might solve my problem, but are they any issues with going that high? (FYI I have 2 gauges running off the same lineand also tried contacting glowshift and they were no help at all)
I tried 5 amp fuse and would still reset back to blue, then a 7.5 amp and the resetting stopped if I turned the lights off myself. So I'm thinking a 10 amp fuse of higher might solve my problem, but are they any issues with going that high? (FYI I have 2 gauges running off the same lineand also tried contacting glowshift and they were no help at all)
Your current positive (+) cable length should not be a problem with that size cable. You are fine with the extra slack, as EvoooB states.
Guage memory or even lighting doesn't draw that many amps. The fuse rating above the recommended shouldn't make a difference. I don't think that is your problem.
I would bet you have a connection problem and/or a weak ground. I see two potential issues. First, I suggest you replace that cheap-o positive (+) battery terminal connector with a quality one (a lead one that is soldered to the wire). I have used the cheap-o ones before and they eventually fail and cause slow starting and prevent the alternator from charging the battery fully. Have you checked to make sure the battery is fully charging now?
Second, I can't tell where the original battery ground wire is connected; where does your "red" wire go? The battery really needs a strong ground. It may be over-kill, but consider running a ground wire from the battery to the original ground wire terminal. At least move that battery ground from the strut brace and go directly to the chassy metal. And make sure that "red" wire is well grounded to the chassy steel.
Hope that helps.
Is it me or does it look like the battery in the trunk grounds to a bolt connected to the rear strut tower bar? If so that may be the issue... There looks to be some paint on it which would insulate the ground. Or is the ground also going along that black wire towards the windshield washer tank? I would check and make sure its metal on metal there, no paint as well.
Nice install other than that, kit looks pretty good.
Nice install other than that, kit looks pretty good.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 246
Likes: 1
From: Frederick, MD
Here are my thoughts:
Your current positive (+) cable length should not be a problem with that size cable. You are fine with the extra slack, as EvoooB states.
Guage memory or even lighting doesn't draw that many amps. The fuse rating above the recommended shouldn't make a difference. I don't think that is your problem.
I would bet you have a connection problem and/or a weak ground. I see two potential issues. First, I suggest you replace that cheap-o positive (+) battery terminal connector with a quality one (a lead one that is soldered to the wire). I have used the cheap-o ones before and they eventually fail and cause slow starting and prevent the alternator from charging the battery fully. Have you checked to make sure the battery is fully charging now?
Second, I can't tell where the original battery ground wire is connected; where does your "red" wire go? The battery really needs a strong ground. It may be over-kill, but consider running a ground wire from the battery to the original ground wire terminal. At least move that battery ground from the strut brace and go directly to the chassy metal. And make sure that "red" wire is well grounded to the chassy steel.
Hope that helps.
Your current positive (+) cable length should not be a problem with that size cable. You are fine with the extra slack, as EvoooB states.
Guage memory or even lighting doesn't draw that many amps. The fuse rating above the recommended shouldn't make a difference. I don't think that is your problem.
I would bet you have a connection problem and/or a weak ground. I see two potential issues. First, I suggest you replace that cheap-o positive (+) battery terminal connector with a quality one (a lead one that is soldered to the wire). I have used the cheap-o ones before and they eventually fail and cause slow starting and prevent the alternator from charging the battery fully. Have you checked to make sure the battery is fully charging now?
Second, I can't tell where the original battery ground wire is connected; where does your "red" wire go? The battery really needs a strong ground. It may be over-kill, but consider running a ground wire from the battery to the original ground wire terminal. At least move that battery ground from the strut brace and go directly to the chassy metal. And make sure that "red" wire is well grounded to the chassy steel.
Hope that helps.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 246
Likes: 1
From: Frederick, MD
So i upgraded the positive wire with 1/0 awg EB flex welding cable from electronbeam/ and moved the old positive cable over to ground on the original ground terminal, and also grounded to more spots in the trunk and still no change so im guessing i got a crappy battery. oh well, fyi that eb flex cable is awesome stuff
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