Mini Amp instead of Receiver, anyone done it?
#1
Mini Amp instead of Receiver, anyone done it?
Thinking about doing something like this. 2lbs, 50watt RMS x4.
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...eries/GM-D1004
2ch in as 1/8" AUX in. No receiver, no radio, no stupid blinky laser lights or cheesy designs. Just an amp straight to speakers.
I'm guessing since there's no volume adjustment that I'd get a deafening pop every time I plug in my phone. Any ideas?
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...eries/GM-D1004
2ch in as 1/8" AUX in. No receiver, no radio, no stupid blinky laser lights or cheesy designs. Just an amp straight to speakers.
I'm guessing since there's no volume adjustment that I'd get a deafening pop every time I plug in my phone. Any ideas?
#2
I was actually just about to order this Alpine unit because the manual mentions "Stand Alone System" as a configuration option with a phone/mp3 player :
But then I read that it won't work with the OEM circuit / Metra adapter. I don't want to run direct power from the battery, I just finished removing the previous owners wiring. I think I give up.
Amazon.com : Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier : Vehicle Multi Channel Amplifiers : Car Electronics
But then I read that it won't work with the OEM circuit / Metra adapter. I don't want to run direct power from the battery, I just finished removing the previous owners wiring. I think I give up.
Battery Lead (Yellow)
There are two options:
a.
Connect battery lead to OEM radio fused circuit
The OEM radio circuit has a fuse to protect your
vehicle’s electrical system in case of a short circuit. Do
not connect the battery lead to the OEM radio circuit if
the fuse rating is less than 15A.
b.
Connect battery lead directly to BATT +
Be sure to add a 15A fuse (sold separately) as close as
possible to the battery’s (+) terminal.
There are two options:
a.
Connect battery lead to OEM radio fused circuit
The OEM radio circuit has a fuse to protect your
vehicle’s electrical system in case of a short circuit. Do
not connect the battery lead to the OEM radio circuit if
the fuse rating is less than 15A.
b.
Connect battery lead directly to BATT +
Be sure to add a 15A fuse (sold separately) as close as
possible to the battery’s (+) terminal.
#3
Update for search results:
It works.
Alpine KTP-445U + RS radio delete panel is perfect for what I'm going for. The only thing to watch for is that you should plug your phone in before turning the car on, otherwise you get a loud transient pop that could in theory blow your speakers after repeated pops. Now that's a common issue with all aux in systems, even OEM ones, but I'm just saying.
Blue/white remote input side wire to ACC 12V turns it on fine, no ugly headunit needed.
It works.
Alpine KTP-445U + RS radio delete panel is perfect for what I'm going for. The only thing to watch for is that you should plug your phone in before turning the car on, otherwise you get a loud transient pop that could in theory blow your speakers after repeated pops. Now that's a common issue with all aux in systems, even OEM ones, but I'm just saying.
Blue/white remote input side wire to ACC 12V turns it on fine, no ugly headunit needed.
#5
Evolving Member
iTrader: (3)
Update for search results:
It works.
Alpine KTP-445U + RS radio delete panel is perfect for what I'm going for. The only thing to watch for is that you should plug your phone in before turning the car on, otherwise you get a loud transient pop that could in theory blow your speakers after repeated pops. Now that's a common issue with all aux in systems, even OEM ones, but I'm just saying.
Blue/white remote input side wire to ACC 12V turns it on fine, no ugly headunit needed.
It works.
Alpine KTP-445U + RS radio delete panel is perfect for what I'm going for. The only thing to watch for is that you should plug your phone in before turning the car on, otherwise you get a loud transient pop that could in theory blow your speakers after repeated pops. Now that's a common issue with all aux in systems, even OEM ones, but I'm just saying.
Blue/white remote input side wire to ACC 12V turns it on fine, no ugly headunit needed.
#6
Factory harness is untouched. I used the Metra 70-7001 adapter from Amazon and then crimped it to the amp's harness using those little nylon connector caps. 8 months, so far so good. It's a 15A device on a 10A fuse, but the fact that there's no antenna or receiver drawing power seems to balance it out.
I love it, sounds great, weighs nothing, there's nothing flashy to steal, plus I get to rock the RS radio delete panel which looks way better than lame *** head units. Note that the amp is totally flat, so you'll need to use your phone's EQ settings to actually give it some bass.
Here's all you need:
I love it, sounds great, weighs nothing, there's nothing flashy to steal, plus I get to rock the RS radio delete panel which looks way better than lame *** head units. Note that the amp is totally flat, so you'll need to use your phone's EQ settings to actually give it some bass.
Here's all you need:
Last edited by Name User; Aug 24, 2015 at 11:47 PM.
#7
EvoM Community Team Leader
i wouldn't do it this way. You are losing out on many functions of the stereo. For example, you cannot control fade, balance, speaker timing etc, and the dac in your phone is not as good as what you would find in a car stereo it is only putting out stereo. Where as the deck would be putting out 4 channels + a sub channel. So you are basically taking 2 channels and splitting them into 4. My suggestion would be to get a mechless head unit and just install it somewhere else if you want to free up the dash. They are pretty small so you can get it into some interesting places.
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#8
I understand people who want to do it "the right way" but I actually don't think a receiver would improve the quality much.
I got Sennheiser HD650s at home, HD25s are my portable headphones. Event and Dynaudio speakers, I know when to pursue sound quality and I also know when I encounter diminishing returns. It's a Lancer, no amount of weak prosumer DSP is going to make it sound amazing. It's not a Bentley or a Maybach, it's a Lancer. It sounds fine for farting around in traffic, droning on the freeway, or cruising windows down in the canyons. It sounds loud and clear, good transient response. I don't expect soundstage or depth or in this environment.
I got Sennheiser HD650s at home, HD25s are my portable headphones. Event and Dynaudio speakers, I know when to pursue sound quality and I also know when I encounter diminishing returns. It's a Lancer, no amount of weak prosumer DSP is going to make it sound amazing. It's not a Bentley or a Maybach, it's a Lancer. It sounds fine for farting around in traffic, droning on the freeway, or cruising windows down in the canyons. It sounds loud and clear, good transient response. I don't expect soundstage or depth or in this environment.
Last edited by Name User; Aug 27, 2015 at 05:30 PM.
#9
EvoM Community Team Leader
I don't agree that you can't make a lancer sound good. I get that its not your thing though and you want a really simple, bare bones solution. Might i suggest installing a bluetooth receiver to your amp instead of running a cable to your phone. It will solve your popping problems, and you will have an even cleaner setup with no exposed cables.
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