ace33joe

iTrader: (2)

Mine does the same thing (full fan on even the engine is not running), and this is the one replaced under recall back in 2004 or so. (Still under 60,000 miles on odometer)
I ordered one from Aliexpress, will see how long it lasts.

gsrboi80

iTrader: (38)

I may have one here, not sure if I trashed it years ago with the inner fan or not?? If I didn’t and I still have it, it’s free to the first who needs it. I’ll have a look and post back up if I have it here.

Apex Hunter

iTrader: (1)

Bump....anybody able to comment on the long term reliability of the aftermarket units?

@Biggiesacks 1st of all thanks for documenting all this so far. Is that Gates part still alive 26 months later?

Also-
Looking at the options @ Rock Auto (filtering by Evo of course), the Gates p/n is FCM102 and it says it fits Base Lancers and Outlanders as well. Mitsu has one p/n for the Evo, and one p/n for the lancer/outlander. Hope someone can confirm FCM102 is good, and not a catalog error.

Biggiesacks

FCM102 Is what I have, and It's still going strong. IIRC the FCM102 has 2 fan outputs. My OEM unit had 2 outputs in the casing, but one was a blank.

Apex Hunter

iTrader: (1)

That's great to hear.

Found someone else with the FCM102 who says they lost the variable fan speed functionality- only runs on low regardless of conditions. Biggie did you have to modify something to retain the dual speeds?

Biggiesacks

Nope just plug and play. I used evoscan to test low and high fan speed, and it worked fine. 105+ degrees, stop and go traffic, a/c full blast, no problem*.

Total speculation, but maybe they plugged it into the wrong fan port or something? Not saying it couldn't be a faulty unit though.



* Yet, Of course I will update this thread if anything changes.

CurseDSM

iTrader: (3)

Glad to hear the Rock auto one is working. I just got one from rock not long ago for my car before it went to the shop.

osetsky

This thread makes me glad I then have a spare left over from chassis swap. Had thought of turfing it but nowadays I'm keeping all Evo parts.

Biggiesacks

**Update** The Gates controller has failed. Even better, the OEM controller is currently no longer available from Mitsubishi. I'm going to give this repackaged Orielly's unit a try and cross my fingers.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...2Fmodule&pos=1

I will update if/when this unit fails.

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

Dang sorry hear, are you guys still using original fans? what does the controller do anyway lol

Biggiesacks

I am still using the original Fan.

The controller allows the ECU to control the speed of the fan with a very low power digital signal. You could think of it as a relay that toggles off and on very fast. Over time, the average on/off time is what controls the speed of the motor.

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

so you can add a relay to the output? I wonder if theres a generic digital switch available like this one
https://www.ebay.com/itm/33136832773...UAAOSwccpg-B~C
I think i read someone here fixed their controllers. I dont remember which part is weak tho

Biggiesacks

You need to be more specific about what you want to do with the relay. The output of this controller was meant to drive motors though. You wouldn't want to try and trigger a relay with it. What you linked is a relay driven setup, it can only do on/off. This controller allows that plus speed control. So Off / Low speed / High speed

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

sorry i changed the link. the output cant be higher than the batt voltage so 12v can be used to trigger a more reliable fan relay. I mean if its the switch in the controller that is the weak point. Sometimes you just have to give up on other features. i dont see the point in low speed cooling unless you have a straight blade fan which is noisier

Biggiesacks

The ECU is sending a PWM signal to the controller. You can't control a relay with this signal. If you wanted to try and trigger a relay with the output of the controller, IMO It wouldn't really solve anything. If the controller fails you are still stuck with the same problem of the fan staying on.

The stuff you're linking is meant to replace the ECU and take control of the fans directly with a straight on/off mode of operation. If you are willing/able to remove the ECU from the control loop, then you have all kinds of options.