that's nothing yet. check out the price of the lower heatshield. probably $2 to make, sells for $130
I used to have a microfiche for audi parts and call 'the parts department' and save tons, even for parts ordered from Germany

 

Guess I was more curious about what the dealership cost is opposed to manufacturing cost.

I remember being shocked at both the labor and parts costs for my Audi! I will never own another one which is out of warranty.

 

thats what an 'Enthusiast market' is. you get suckered a bit more and youre ok with it
prices are different if youre a shop fixing collision damage

 

so that $15 ebay/preowned controller is working and in my car. do those 2 electric fans run at the same time normally? i just started paying attention today

 

IIRC, assuming stock fan setup, the pusher fan on the RH side (on the AC condenser) only runs with AC on. The puller fan on the LH side (on the radiator) handles all the workload otherwise.

 

That's how i thought how it works. But when I tested with the car warming up I see & hear both fans are running at the same time. It has the same amount of fan noise as before so I assume its always been like that.
I do have a new SPAL puller fan and I cant imagine how that changes things. I'll change back to OE puller and original controller to confirm

 

Just FYI for anyone else dealing with a bad fan controller, I tried two different Gates FCM102 modules, and both were giving me bad voltage drops while driving and at idle.
Going to chalk it up as a loss and go with OEM - even the faulty OEM box doesn't have volt drop issues like this - I do have an aftermarket rebuilt alternator, but don't believe this is contributing to the problem atm.
Will report back once I get the new OEM FCM module in - going back to the faulty OEM one for the time being.

 

My gates unit didn't last. I posted an update about it failing a little while ago. The repackaged unit I got from Oreilly's is still working fine, but the car hasn't been driven that much so that's not really an endorsement.

 

hi. at what mileage does the alternator break? wondering if i should stock up now

 

I'm at 254,000 miles on the original alternator - still going strong!

 

wow. considering my luck with this car maybe i should get a backup around 90k

 

My alt died at 187k
This could have been due to it sitting in cold storage for 4 years.....

 

But back on topic.....
Is there controller all electrical?
Or is there a programable portion of it (Inside little box)
Could always look into making a "New" production.

I have this issue as well but the car is back in the states and I now live in Germany, otherwise i would look into it now that i know why mine is acting up

 

just get the Calsonic unit. its OE for MANY japanese/korean cars

 

I dont know if anyone else posted the part number but I found it and will post it up for those who want the Infiniti/Nissan equivalent part : 214934GA0A.