When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Anyone with electrical knowledge? particularly alternators
This is the backside of the positive terminal, does anyone know which of the of these is the power wire coming from the alternator??
I’ve made a post regarding the issue I’m having with a 160amp alternator at high rpm.
-belt isn’t skipping
-everything works fine if I stay under 6k rpms
-anything after 7k rpm I get a battery and brake light on dash meaning it’s not charging the battery but it’s not constant, it’s sporadic and happens whenever it wants
-car has left me stranded twice and starts right up with a jump
-stock 100 amp fusible link is good
-had both alternator and battery tested and all checked out good
I’m still running the stock power wire from alternator to battery, I’m going with one of these two options
1. Add a 4 gauge wire parallel (meaning I’ll leave the stock one in place) with an inline fuse, but I’m just not sure if this method is ok to add a second fuse.
Or
2. Eliminate the oem power wire all together and use a 4 gauge with an inline 180-200 amp fuse since it’s best for the fuse to be 20% of the alternators amperage. My issue with this option is I’m unsure of which of the wires in the pic is the power wire. I don’t want to cut and open the harness for just one wire.
How long is the wire going to be? 200amps on 4 gauge cant be to long you might want to go to 2 gauge you can look up the ratings for wires (copper and aluminum are different)..personally I got a distribution block and got rid of the factory crap when I upgraded my wiring so that if a fuse ever does blow I can simple put a new one in....There is no harm adding to it but yes put a fuse on it....make sure you check the factory wire and fuse link really good though cause covering a problem isn't a good thing.
my experience has been battery and brake light is a charging issue kinda weird that its fine under 6k should be closer to 3k-4k when the lights pop on.... where did you get this 160amp alt? sounds like it could be an issue with it...if it really can put out 160amps your fuse link would be toasted and or you melted the wire.
How long is the wire going to be? 200amps on 4 gauge cant be to long you might want to go to 2 gauge you can look up the ratings for wires (copper and aluminum are different)..personally I got a distribution block and got rid of the factory crap when I upgraded my wiring so that if a fuse ever does blow I can simple put a new one in....There is no harm adding to it but yes put a fuse on it....make sure you check the factory wire and fuse link really good though cause covering a problem isn't a good thing.
my experience has been battery and brake light is a charging issue kinda weird that its fine under 6k should be closer to 3k-4k when the lights pop on.... where did you get this 160amp alt? sounds like it could be an issue with it...if it really can put out 160amps your fuse link would be toasted and or you melted the wire.
wire from alternator to battery is a little less than 3 ft long. Alternator is an oem rebuilt to 160amps
Originally Posted by jingalalahoe
Marked the alternator wire but I think something's wrong with the regulator for your alternator than the wires.
If you want to upgrade wires, do the big 3 upgrade,not just the alternator wire
Thank you very much man!! I’ve been searching everywhere
