WOW. Some tidbits.
If I were to make an engineering list of the potiental failure pieces (in order of priority) and how to mitigate the risk I'd go with:
1.) Adequate water in the WI Tank.
2.) Nozzle Clogging.
3.) WI Motor Burn-Out
4.) Connectors Failing (both mechanical and electrical)
5.) Electronics Burn-Out.
I think 4 and 5 can be switched in priority. The result of any failure without adequate fueling and timing adjustment could result in engine failure.
I think I'm going to post later on the mitigaton solutions for each item.
Thanks,
jcnel
1.) Adequate water in the WI Tank.
2.) Nozzle Clogging.
3.) WI Motor Burn-Out
4.) Connectors Failing (both mechanical and electrical)
5.) Electronics Burn-Out.
I think 4 and 5 can be switched in priority. The result of any failure without adequate fueling and timing adjustment could result in engine failure.
I think I'm going to post later on the mitigaton solutions for each item.
Thanks,
jcnel
Originally Posted by Zeus
Where's David? I need more info. I've always been against adding a WI system to a high strung daily driver because you are adding one more system that has the potental for failure... however, with more and more safety features being added to these systems, I becoming interested.
Originally Posted by jcnel_evo8
If I were to make an engineering list of the potiental failure pieces (in order of priority) and how to mitigate the risk I'd go with:
1.) Adequate water in the WI Tank.
2.) Nozzle Clogging.
3.) WI Motor Burn-Out
4.) Connectors Failing (both mechanical and electrical)
5.) Electronics Burn-Out.
I think 4 and 5 can be switched in priority. The result of any failure without adequate fueling and timing adjustment could result in engine failure.
I think I'm going to post later on the mitigaton solutions for each item.
Thanks,
jcnel
1.) Adequate water in the WI Tank.
2.) Nozzle Clogging.
3.) WI Motor Burn-Out
4.) Connectors Failing (both mechanical and electrical)
5.) Electronics Burn-Out.
I think 4 and 5 can be switched in priority. The result of any failure without adequate fueling and timing adjustment could result in engine failure.
I think I'm going to post later on the mitigaton solutions for each item.
Thanks,
jcnel
Here are some ideas:
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=18
Failure of connectors or other electronics failures will always be tough to handle without build mechanical safeguards or redundant systems.
O.K. Here are some answers and a more detailed run down of it.
We are using a kit built by SMC. It is a "standalone" kit. Has a tank with a "fuel" pump in it, braided stainless lines, the alcohol nozzle and a controller.
This kit can be used by itself or with any and all aftermarket computers. It controls itself. No need to wire it into the EMS or any other computer.
It is triggered by boost. You can set the on point to any boost level you want. In Mike's car we set it to come on around 18 psi. Then you can also vary the amount of pump speed (alcohol) that is injected through another knob.
The kit required mounting a bottle, drilling a hole in your upper i/c pipe to put the nozzle in and mounting the head unit. From there you will have to run a hot and ground wire. Pretty straight forward and simple.
The kit we have been talking about is $399. There is also a progressive kit available that lets you set the boost point you want the alcohol to start to inject and a full on boost point when the alcohol is injecting at 100%. That kit is $499.
I am working with them right now to get a kit that will actually use the stock intercooler sprayer bottle as the resevoir. This will eliminate the ability to spray on the intercooler itself but will make for one very clean install.
We use straight denatured alcohol in the tank, you have to add a little oil to it to keep the pump lubricated. 1 gallon of this at Home Depot costs about $10. The bottle holds about a 1/2 gallon. The 1/2 gallon bottle will last about 8 passes with the pump speed on max and the alcohol basically on the entire run.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
We are using a kit built by SMC. It is a "standalone" kit. Has a tank with a "fuel" pump in it, braided stainless lines, the alcohol nozzle and a controller.
This kit can be used by itself or with any and all aftermarket computers. It controls itself. No need to wire it into the EMS or any other computer.
It is triggered by boost. You can set the on point to any boost level you want. In Mike's car we set it to come on around 18 psi. Then you can also vary the amount of pump speed (alcohol) that is injected through another knob.
The kit required mounting a bottle, drilling a hole in your upper i/c pipe to put the nozzle in and mounting the head unit. From there you will have to run a hot and ground wire. Pretty straight forward and simple.
The kit we have been talking about is $399. There is also a progressive kit available that lets you set the boost point you want the alcohol to start to inject and a full on boost point when the alcohol is injecting at 100%. That kit is $499.
I am working with them right now to get a kit that will actually use the stock intercooler sprayer bottle as the resevoir. This will eliminate the ability to spray on the intercooler itself but will make for one very clean install.
We use straight denatured alcohol in the tank, you have to add a little oil to it to keep the pump lubricated. 1 gallon of this at Home Depot costs about $10. The bottle holds about a 1/2 gallon. The 1/2 gallon bottle will last about 8 passes with the pump speed on max and the alcohol basically on the entire run.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Another point. This is NOT a water/alcohol kit. This is set up for use of 100% alcohol. There is a lighted display with the kit that tells you when the alcohol is low and when it is actually spraying.
The only problem I could see is if you had the boost cranked way up with the kit and then neglected to pay attention to the alcohol level in the tank. I have heard of no failures with this kit, not saying they haven't happened, I just personally have not heard of any.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
The only problem I could see is if you had the boost cranked way up with the kit and then neglected to pay attention to the alcohol level in the tank. I have heard of no failures with this kit, not saying they haven't happened, I just personally have not heard of any.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
I am working with them right now to get a kit that will actually use the stock intercooler sprayer bottle as the resevoir. This will eliminate the ability to spray on the intercooler itself but will make for one very clean install.
... if I use WI, I'm going to either find, or build a kit that uses the OE intercooler bottle for packaging purposes. Also, I'm set on either water or the windshield mix for the daily driver.
This is a great price for a great product though.
This is a great price for a great product though.
Methanol =
We had a supra here that made 703whp on 93 octane and methanol, then they drained the pump gas and put in straight C16 and turned off the meth and made 698whp.
for meth.
We had a supra here that made 703whp on 93 octane and methanol, then they drained the pump gas and put in straight C16 and turned off the meth and made 698whp.
for meth.
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
Another point. This is NOT a water/alcohol kit. This is set up for use of 100% alcohol.
I have a similar question to the above.
Dave- Do you mean this kit is only for Alcohol?
What are the differences between using 100% alcohol, 50/50 water and alchy, or 50/50 water and meth?
Some people use water, and from what I understand when it is sprayed it pretty much just serves as a heat absorber and cools the air. Do the 3 options I mentioned just have a higher oct rating than the other?
Thanks in advanced.