ACT Clutch Break In
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ACT Clutch Break In
So I have this act installed and I've just about hit 500 miles.
When I first got it the clutch engaged like haflway up the pedal, but now its almost back to stock length...which is like the last 3/4 of the pedal. I liked it before but is this normal? Did I break it in incorrectly? I did do some fast shifting...could resist :P but no dumping or anything.
Also now i'm pushing it a bit but each time i do so it seems I keep getting a little bit a clutch smell... I hear there's a smell in the clutch when you break it in initially...am I shifting bad or is it just not broken in yet? I mean...upshifting isnt that hard...but who knows I could be doing it wrong. ;o
Thanks guys
When I first got it the clutch engaged like haflway up the pedal, but now its almost back to stock length...which is like the last 3/4 of the pedal. I liked it before but is this normal? Did I break it in incorrectly? I did do some fast shifting...could resist :P but no dumping or anything.
Also now i'm pushing it a bit but each time i do so it seems I keep getting a little bit a clutch smell... I hear there's a smell in the clutch when you break it in initially...am I shifting bad or is it just not broken in yet? I mean...upshifting isnt that hard...but who knows I could be doing it wrong. ;o
Thanks guys
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I had a little of the "smell" for the first few miles and instructions do suggest you need to mate surfaces for about 500 miles while the disk gets rid of the initial surface roughness. My clutch works well with no changes in pedal. The engagement is similar to stock just shorter and crisper. Lock up is very much better. I have the ACT hd.
Last edited by WildRice; Nov 14, 2004 at 12:03 AM.
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Normally the engagement point doesn't move unless the clutch is worn out, but I am confident that is not the case here. Sometimes the engagement point will get a little higher once the disc laps in because it takes a a little less travel to operate. The only real concern is if the clutch is adjusted too far. If you adjust the engagement point up to the point that the master cylinder is preloaded (even just slightly), the clutch is not able to self-adjust or compensate for wear. As the clutch wears, the clutch gets preloaded and the engagment point gets higher and higher, until finally the clutch cannot hold the power.
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Originally Posted by plokivos
too far as it's adjusted to much toward the floor? or the driver?
The way the system works is when the m/c piston is all the way back (when your foot is off the pedal) a port is exposed in the master cylinder that allows fluid to travel to and from the fluid reservoir. This is how the hydraulics self-adjust for wear and add or usually take away fluid as needed to compensate for what position the slave cylinder piston is in as the clutch disc wears. If you adjust the m/c rod too far, the piston will become preloaded and not expose this port and the hydraulics are not able to self-adjust. When this happens, the fluid will not go back into the reservoir as the disc wears and the pressure plate becomes preloaded by the release bearing. With the bearing pushing (pulling in this case) full time it acts just like you are pushing on the pedal and riding the clutch. You can imagine what this can do to thrust bearings as well. I hope that helps to explain it. I tried to see if there is some illustration on the web, but I couldn't find one.
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Originally Posted by ACTman
Normally the engagement point doesn't move unless the clutch is worn out, but I am confident that is not the case here. Sometimes the engagement point will get a little higher once the disc laps in because it takes a a little less travel to operate. The only real concern is if the clutch is adjusted too far. If you adjust the engagement point up to the point that the master cylinder is preloaded (even just slightly), the clutch is not able to self-adjust or compensate for wear. As the clutch wears, the clutch gets preloaded and the engagment point gets higher and higher, until finally the clutch cannot hold the power.
I am having my ACT installed with a 6-puck race disk on wed....do i have to break that in like a normal clutch?
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So thats something you would need person who installed the clutch to adjust it then correct? I feel like i might have the same problem (or maybe just paranoid, lol) I have about 2000 miles on the clutch, no lauches or anything like that but the peddle play is going back to where it was on my stock clutch(higher than when it was brand new, but nothing riddculous) I know when I first had it installed in would grip like an inch off the floor but now it seems to be around 2 1/2-3in. (guessing- appoximte #s) Is that ok?
P.s -love the clutch thou!
P.s -love the clutch thou!
Last edited by NYREDEVO; Aug 21, 2006 at 07:44 AM.
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Actually I think it's just when I took it out for a drive first it was really cold. These last couple days when I drive my car out during the cold the clutch clamps really hard for some reason. I can just slowly let off the clutch without giving gas and it'll move whereas when it's warmed up it wont do that. Also when shifting its very hard to get into into another gear smoothly when cold. I'm not too sure if this is really happening but it's what I feel. ANyone else experience this? I have ~700 Miles on it now.
I dont get clutch smell anymore...well it depends. Do all you guys give some gas(1300 -1500RPMS), and let off the clutch ASAP? When I do that I get no smell but engagement is clunkly. When I slowly let it engage i give a very small amount of gas(1100 RPM at most) and just slowly let off the clutch pedal until I feel its engaged. Perhaps it's just my driving style.
I dont get clutch smell anymore...well it depends. Do all you guys give some gas(1300 -1500RPMS), and let off the clutch ASAP? When I do that I get no smell but engagement is clunkly. When I slowly let it engage i give a very small amount of gas(1100 RPM at most) and just slowly let off the clutch pedal until I feel its engaged. Perhaps it's just my driving style.
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How much is too far for the hydralics to not self adjust for the wear? I've compared my New m/c cylinder length to the stock m/c cylinder length and it looks about the same, but I'm still having problems with engaging in the first gear and reverse.
If it's the cold weather, and these clutches need to be warmed up before they could engage properly, I still can't get the reverse to go in after the car's been running for a while.
After adjusting the M/c toward the floor (which shorten the length of the thread on the m/c
), the clutch is releasing slowly and engagement is rougher...
I have no clue... I have about 1/4 to 1/5 inch left on the m/c thread after the upside down U bracket.
If it's the cold weather, and these clutches need to be warmed up before they could engage properly, I still can't get the reverse to go in after the car's been running for a while.
After adjusting the M/c toward the floor (which shorten the length of the thread on the m/c
), the clutch is releasing slowly and engagement is rougher...
I have no clue... I have about 1/4 to 1/5 inch left on the m/c thread after the upside down U bracket.
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well i just had a act clutch installed 2 days ago go 300 miles on it and im loving it clamps in the perfect spot no chatter perfect best thing i ever got for the car should of gotten this with the car when it was new lol