30,000 miles, 5 track days, no hard launches=perfectly fine clutch. I drive the car very hard on the track and on winding roads as well.
Driving style means a lot. Also recognizing the car's utility, which is not for dragging, stoplight or otherwise. Have to say I'm on mitsubishis side on the clutch issue.


Percy

 

I agree with alot of the guys here. I think what GOKOU is saying is that most if not all of the Evo owners in USA will not use the car for the intended purpose of rallying. We Americans are more into light to light showdowns and autox than rallying. With that in mind they should have beefed up the whole drive line/tranny/clutch and whatever else they have to to satisfy us.

And what every one else is saying is that anything that is used to achieve it's full potential whether it be car /computer/bike or whatever on a constant basis will meet it's end faster.

In the end we all can admit that we wished we had a stronger clutch but as it stands we don't so we just have to take what we got and wait for what we want. I think it all depends on the driver. If you want to race every Joe Shmoe that meets you at the light then you are asking for trouble. Any car could only take so much of this. Yes some will last longer but it would eventually fail. The S4 probably doesn't have this problem because it was more intended for road racing and tarmac situations than the gravel and dirt the evo was intended for.

Question: is there any way to upgrade the Transfer Case? I know that most people after the stock clutch goes are going to opt for a better clutch which puts the transfer case next in line to go bye bye. I wonder what's next in line after the transfer case hmmm?

 

My understanding is that its not the transfer case that goes, but rather the front differential. Problem here is that you cant buy just the diff, so you have to buy a whole new transfer case. With that being said, the quaife LSD should correct this problem at a little over a $1000 + installation.

 

So basically you're saying that after one buy's a better clutch and the Quaife LSD we could do (well for us it would be 5000rpm launches with moderation of course) and the car should be able to handle it.

How much better is that setup. Is it like a MR over VIII improvement, a VIII over Lancer ralliart improvement or a MR over Lancer ralliart improvement.(I just want to have an idea)

 

If you have an MR, you don't have the weak open front diff that the older models had. Time will tell how strong the new stock front LSD is.

 

No one has ever built a car so well engineered, with such race-like quality, for such a price. for under 30k this car is ****in bulletproof


People just dont get it.......If you dont mod and you dont launch, the clutch will last you quite some time.

So bottom line: FACT IS- THE BEST DAMN CAR EVER MADE FOR ITS PRICE

 

That's the problem. Maybe should have said that for advertisement. Why buy this car if you're not going to mod and launch? Rally? Grandman driving?

 

It seems some people need to learn how to drive before they learn how to complain....

 

I hope you're not implying that most people who had issues don't know how to drive? I for one know for sure that I wouldn't complain if the issue was my fault and I don't know how to drive

Some people need to learn to think before they make a comment

 

I am.

Stock clutch can hold around 350 crank torque. Your call.

 

Exedy Clutch 1199

 

Since when did any warranty cover parts you add AFTER the warranty was activated? If you modify your car and don't tell your insurance company, will they reimburse you for your mods if you get in a wreck? No.....

Same applies for a warranty. It covers the car in stock form (as bought) from defects in workmanship or materials when the car is driven under normal circumstances. If you race / abuse / modify, then that is the price you pay. I modify my car, and I don't plan on looking on getting a free lunch if something was to go wrong on the car.

Pay...

To...

Play.

 

It looks like you still have a lot to learn if you think that it's driver error/fault , mod every time something breaks. There are plenty of people in here with stock EVO who knows how to drive far better then you and baby sit their car and yet it still failed. I don't know if you own an EVO or not but even you should at least know. I suggest you go back and read all my suggestions and comments about the warranty and clutch issue I think I made some valid points.

If you do own an EVO be happy nothing happen but don't go around saying that it's driver abuse everytime a clutch fails.

 

You really need to stop jumping to conclusions. Just to set you straight, let's go over my personal history with Mitsu products...


I've owned two Eclipse GSX's. The first one lasted over 70,000 on the stock clutch while pushing around 230 WHP. The second one lasted on the stock clutch until around 80,000 with around 200 WHP. Both of these cars were drag raced and road raced. Once I replaced the clutch in each of them, I stepped up the power to around 300 WHP.

I've owned two Evo's now, as well. Yep, I'm on my second one already. The first one I had was putting down near 270 WHP on the stock clutch and lasted 26,000 miles. The car was totaled at that mileage, and the drivetrain felt like day one up to that point. It was never drag raced or launched, except for with the aid of a Flat Shift, and only done twice with that - for test and evaluation purposes only. They were both dune with less than 5,000 RPMs, but with 10 PSI at time of clutch engagement. In other words, I had max torque applied with lower RPMs, so it wouldn't act like a friggin dremel tool on the clutch disk as I launched, but still grab and go. I never did the SS braided clutch line or the restrictor pill removal modification. The car still felt perfect. My current Evo (2004 RS) has around 4,500 miles on it with mods. In no way do I drive the car in a conservative manner. I drive very fast and very hard. The majority of the time the car is in motion, the RPM's are over 4,000. ASk any of the guys that are on here that live in the Norfolk, VA area that have seen me drive. They'll tell you that I wind my car up tight in every gear, and that I am not afraid to drive the car very hard. However....I always rev match, I never slip the clutch, I always downshift on decel, I never grind gears. It is possible to drive these cars hard and have them still hold up. You just have to know what you are doing.

I really like your assumption about how there are plenty of people "here" that know how to drive way better than me, considering I have never met you. If you know me so well, why don't you tell me what my lucky numbers are, so that I can go play the lottery tomorrow. If I win, I'll buy you a new clutch to make your pain and suffering go away.

Before you open your mouth and spout off at me, you might want to count to 10 and ask yourself if you are going to get in over your head and look like an ***. I didn't say it was driver abuse EVERY time a clutch fails, but every clutch I have pulled out of an Evo has had the flywheel scored and discolored all to hell. On each occasion, I showed the car owner and told him that it was an indicator of slippage and hard launches. Guess what they said: "Yeah, I've launched it a few times, but I didn't think it would do this kind of damage." Go figure.


Now let's get back on topic and understand what's different about the MR's drivetrain. The neutral 5,000 RPM rev limit was put in the car to keep the RPM's down on launches, to save the clutch, since so many people were buying an Evo and drag racing it, then complaining and trying to warranty a clutch. It seems that too many people out there complain that the clutch should be stronger, which would lead to more transfer case failures. Personally, I would rather have the clutch be the fuse in the drivetrain rather than the t-case. But you can't get through to some people, and so you have to implement new safeguards and dumb the car down for them. Enter the 5,000 RPM rev limiter.

 

Yes, that would be what a CT9A is.