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Act Clutch!! Help Please

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Old Nov 24, 2004 | 12:44 PM
  #16  
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Since the brakes and clutch run off the same reservoir, and you have bubbles, you might have to bleed your brakes and clutch...it's a damn ***** bleeding all that and be prepared to go through a couple of bottles of brake fluid over what you normally would (I had to...with RBF600...$16/bottle!). After you think you have all the air bubbles out, go romp on the brakes a few times and air bubbles will magically appear. bleed your brakes about 3 times and you should have almost all the air bubbles out lol. good luck!
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Old Nov 24, 2004 | 12:48 PM
  #17  
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Break fluid and clutch fluid are in separate compartments. This is why if your clutch line burst, the breaks still work since the reservoir is devided by a wall. This wall is the reason why fluid don't get to the clutch side unless you overfill the fluid above the max line.

You need to depress the clutch pedal and unscrew the bleeder screw to let the air out with fluid than tighten the screw and release the clutch pedal. Two people would be nice to have for this job.
Once no air comes out than your done and if the problem still exist, than you'll need to look else where.

Last edited by simevo; Nov 24, 2004 at 12:51 PM.
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Old Nov 24, 2004 | 12:52 PM
  #18  
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when do you kno your done no air pressure comes out just fluid??
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Old Nov 24, 2004 | 02:33 PM
  #19  
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????????????
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Old Nov 24, 2004 | 02:35 PM
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thanks
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Old Nov 24, 2004 | 03:04 PM
  #21  
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what cant of fluid can you use does it matter ??? thanks i been using dot 3
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Old Nov 24, 2004 | 03:11 PM
  #22  
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the act clutch comes up to normal engagement after you wear it. It should engage as the same as the stock clutch engagement point.

I have no idea why the caliper replacement will effect the clutch pedal.

check your master cylinder rod above your clutch pedal. It should have about 3/4 of an inch screwed into the U bracket.

don't you want to adjust the hydralics on the clutch instead of the slave or is that the samething?
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