I hate to double post but many may not visit all ares of this web site so here is my question:

How or should I say has anyone got 2 different ecu's to work in 1 evo on the same set of keys or are 2 different sets of key's required for the different ecu's.I programmed a set of keys to 1 ecu and engine starts,swap out ecu's and programmed same 2 keys to other ecu and engine starts,but when I plug in 1st ecu,just cranks and cranks,like keys were never programmed.What gives.Using hand held Mitsu scan tool to do this.How are people doing the 2 different ecu/flash trick.Al,anyone???I realize that the imobilizer ecu is seperate from ecm,but it must recocognize a different ecu and not send the signal to enable ecu to start vehicle.
Any help would be great.

 

There is an ID resident in the engine ECU that is written into the imobilizer ECU when you program the keys. In the past people with the flashing tool state that they don't have access to the area of the engine ECU that contains the ID, thus can't clone the ECU to permit what you are attempting.

This suggests that the supplier of the flashing tool could provide this feature.

 

That is sort of what I thought as the problem that I am having is very consistant with what you are saying.Imobilizer ecu is seeing 2 keys are already programmed in no matter what ecu I have in,but car starts only with last ecu recognized to imobilizer
ecu.I see that communication is done only from 1 wire from engine ecu to imobilizer
ecu,thus removing that 1 wire from engine ecu connector would enable any engine ecu to start vehicle,but make this wonderful anti-theft system useless as when you
connect a AEM ecu vehicle starts right up.

 

Are you sure removing the wire will permit the engine to start? My understanding is that the engine ECU must receive a message over the wire (e.g. it is a serial data bus running between the two ECU's).

 

You're talking about a built in double processor in the ECU.

Like BMW, but really it's a bit complicated then mitsu system

 

You can have two different ecu's for your car. You need two immobilizers. One for each ecu. And of course each ecu/imm combo has its own key.

 

Sounds like the 2 ECU thing (1 for pump gas/everyday driving and 1 for race gas with very agressive timing is a PITA).When everyone started talking about it,it seemed like a great idea,but this now seems like a great big Hassle.

 

Good point!

That is why I gave up and use an Xede.

 

same here

 

No wonder that when I posted this question in the Dynoflash part of these forums Al did not respond as he was the one who originally had this Great Idea.

 

Switching to race gas is far more of a PITA than switching ecus. Sounds like you guys should tune for pump gas and be content with that.

 

Has anyone disconnected the immobilizer wire itself to see if their car still starts without it connected to the ECU? That would certainly answer the question... Run the alternate ECU and disconnect the wire..

But like someone with the XEDE Said, I chose not to use reflashed ECU's because I couldn't alter my tune or change maps based on conditions so I went with the UTEC instead... But same deal..

 

On the JDMs you can disable the immobilizer by having the key in the car, and pulling the windshield sprayer towards you for 15 seconds. Dunno if it works for you guys.

 

Well Thankyou very much for your helpful sugguestions Helpie-Helperton.It is good to see you helping fellow members out with your useful Tips....BTW,I am only trying to actually HELP a friend out by researching this for him,as for Myself I
use the AEM and switching to race gas is actually quite easy,that is if you know what you are doing when you have tools in you hand.