I ususally recomend the ACT with street disk unless you REALLY want to dump $1500 on the clutch. The only clutch I could recomend above the ACT/street would be the carbon.carcon Exedy, and that would only be for cars going low11's and on the dragstrip week in/out or making 500+whp.

I have been using the act since this summer making about 85 dragstrip launches since install and the clutch is still holding great. The car made 350whp and went 115 on pumpgas, ran 119mph last time out..that should be like 385-390whp. The act will hold that just fine. I beat the snot out of this car every day, it gets atleast one or two hard launches every single time I drive it.

Im pretty sure most of the shifting issues ACT owners have is caused by the installer not bothering to set the clutch pedal adjustment after putting it together.

The ACT is $550 and would work perfectly fine in 95% of street evo cars.

 

Thanks for posting again. I appreciate your explanation. I don't like to argue and fight but since I have had first hand experience with the Exedy twin clutch, I wanted to share my experience with it.
I'm sure that compared with a tilton twin disk racing clutch, the Exedy is an easy clutch to drive. The problem is that most of us have not had the experience of driving a car with a racing clutch like that in order to make the comparison

Naturally, if you were able to drive the car the first time, this would seem like a success to you. For most of us we take it for granted that we'll be able to drive off the car without problems every single time
My car had cams, big injectors, standalone ecu, exhaust, intake, etc. I can promise you that it was a ***** to drive. I can get used to a lot of stuff and I was able to generally start the car without stalling from level ground. However, every single time I had to start up hill from a red light with cars ahead and behind me, I'd stall the g-damned thing... It was embarrassing and inconvenient.
I will say that after I removed everything except the cams, cam gears and injectors, the car was much easier to drive and the clutch felt to me almost like stock.... Of course, when I took the car to the dealer to trade it in on my new MR, the guy who test drove it managed to stall it 3 times before he could get out of the parking lot

If I had known how that Exedy twin clutch was going to work, I would have never installed it in my car.... It's a good unit and will take lots of power, etc. It will even drive easier than most racing clutches, but it's in no way "just like stock" or even worse "easier than stock".

Anybody out there thinking of installing any sort of twin disk, tripple disk or any kind of "racing" clutch needs to first try driving a car with that clutch for a while simulating everyday driving and only then make the decision to go that route. Be aware that your daily driver will definitely be transformed into a hot rod not meant to be driven in stop and go traffic or even to go get groceries. Racing cars do not need to stop very much, or do frequent uphill starts, stop 'n go driving or even backing up very much. These cars are only meant to go flat out and to have very positive clutch engagement like an off-on light switch.

 

good points. i know the frustration of the twin disc like your explaining. i used to live in san francisco, and driving the tilton twin up those hills made me sweat! i'd have to do a mini burn out just to prevent stalling. good thing no cops were around... that be a tough on to explain. lol

 

I drove an evo with a cusco twin disc. the clutch pedal wasn't that much stiffer, but the main difference that I notice was that it engaged really low. just as soon as you started letting the clutch pedal up. I stalled twice trying to go over some very tall speed bumps with a lowered Evo. and starting out is kinda weird. it will start bucking with you very easy. it only took a few stop and go situations and i had it down pat. It's definatly different. but not bad different in my opinion.

-Chad-

 

Just wondering why this particular cerametallic clutch is only $496?!?!

Looking at the picture and description I would imagine the drivability of this clutch is pretty rough being a 3 puck design. Anyone tried this?

 

Well, it's a lot less complicated and has fewer parts than the multiplate designs.... I don't have any idea of how well that clutch drives. The design would indicate difficult driveability, but who knows?....


I wish there was a good, complete, unbiased and objective guide to clutches. That way a person could make intelligent choices. It's hard as hell to order the right clutch for one's application when there is no good information to base the decision upon.

for instance, something like this:


----------------------driveability----- power handling-------------- pedal effort etc

Stock clutch------------ 0 --------------- 0 -------------------------- normal

brand x--------------- -1----------------- +1----------------------------ok

brand y--------------- -1 ---------------- +2----------------------------med

brand z--------------- -2 ----------------- +3 --------------------------high

etc

etc

Tilton racing clutch-- -10--------------+10 ------------------------------ high