At the line, if you get the pedal real close to the engagment point, that will help since less fluid has to pass through the restrictor.

It's real easy to change the restrictor to feel the difference. If you don't like it out, change it back. Just don't slide your foot to the left at 6000 rpm while it's out. Also do a seat of the pants diagnostic: If you don't smell clutch after a hard run with the restrictor in, then the restrictor is probably not an issue. Just some thoughts from an expert couch racer.

 

Dirk,

45 dyno pulls and this thing holds awesome. Take the clutch out and it wants to shoot forward with authority.

 

If you want better feel and less inadvertent slipage yet are worried about shock load producing shear then simply drill a slightly larger hole in the plastic disk and keep it in. For me, having the thing on my work bench instead of in my slave cylinder is the best play but I don't dump my clustch since I blew a multi disk up on one of my bikes.

 

About 36k on the car without the restrictor... however, the car has had 8 drag passes on it. Ever. It may never get another one. As Dirk pointed out, removing it can be the best thing you ever did to your tranny (like for me), or the next to LAST thing you ever do to your tranny. It works best in my tool box. For many, I might need to stay where it is...

OT Does anyone know how much the Evo tranny weighs?

 

man, 8 passes. Weak sauce.

then again, you got a drag car.

I think the stock clutch lasted about 60 launches. If you know how to slip well, your clutch tend to go before over shocking your tranny.

With about 20 launches on my act so far, the clutch smell a little bit, but not like the stock.

Everything feels fine and it still seem to hold like a guy falling off of a cliff.

 

Hey, I out grew drag racing back in my mid twenties... it's kind of like sex in your early teens... your in, BANG, and your out, now what do you do? Watch? Brag about how good it was? I prefer something that I can make a day out of... most of the day actually "in the saddle" (roadracing), and not on the side lines watching the next guy "take a go at it".

 

yeh, i'm leaning more toward wanting to do road race, mountain runs and auto-x.

Must be that whole, almost 30 thing.

 

Im installing an ACT clutch with a prostreet flywheel... I picked ACT because the quality is there... I have always been a big WRC fan..... way before the evo ever thought about coming over here, I had a 325wph turbo for focus with the fordrallyesport RS bumper it was hot and I trusted the act kit in it and it never let me down... unfortunately I got rearended by somejerk@ss w/o insurance so i got a used evo with 17K on it and the first thing i said (before i came familiar with the cars problems) was well atleast I wont have to worry about upgrading the clutch for a while cuz it comes stock with that nice exedy unit... well i thought differently when the car hit 23k miles... I went and raised hell @ my mitsu dealer, i told them u know its kinda funny i had a $8k focus that i beat the crap out of and now i have a $30k evo and i baby it and u see what happens... I trusted ACT then and I'ma trust them again so I just wanna thank ACT inc. for picking up the slack for mitsubishi and ill let you know what i think about my new clutch asap!

 

the clutch grabs a whole lot sooner from the 40miles i have driven on it so far. Killed the car 3 times soo far. It's totally different from the stocker after being used to 37k miles on the stock clutch. I like it sooo far. Its a whole lot more quiet, I think my stock TOB was a whole lot louder.

 

tt

 

The restrictor restricts the fluid from escaping back to the clutch master cylinder faster than a certain rate. Meanwhile if you are trying to get the clutch to engage faster than the fluid is allowing, and you are under boost, the clutch simply slips. It is just like having a lazy foot when it comes to engaging the clutch. Now if you have a quick heavy right foot and lazy left foot, you burn up clutch material. The clutch's friction material only wears when the clutch slips. The restrictor can cause more slip which equals more wear.
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I had the ACT street disck with the Prostreet flywheel installed a couple weeks ago and I now have 1000 miles on it. When I shift in the higher RPM's the clutch slips slightly. Is it because I had my Tech remove the restrictor? If so how hard is it to put the restricto back in?

 

I have one too. It is great. With a proper high slip lauch I still spin all 4 wheels. It is great but DO NOT DUMP IT!!! I would also not remove the restrictor. You may lose a 10th or two, but my Tranny is important to me and I still get sub 1.8's so what is the big deal....

 

Question about dumping on shifts with a pedal lift. I took a buddy out and he slipped it for each shift. I just time my shift, thottle and clutch operations as I have always done. You can feel the shock on the drive line as the ACT lock up is good. My question fits this thread becasue I want to know which method bet fits the ACT design criteria?

BTW I put my car through its paces.... some times she is in the mood for smooth some times she likes it rough... the big thing is skill and going with the mood... right Zeus...

 

 

Zeus, I don't have an exact weight for the tranny, but minus TC id say it's in the area of 175-200 lbs. I am pulling this from memory since i installed my ACT this past saturday.

Also some info on stock clutch with restrictor and w/o restrictor.

w/ restrictor, best 60' 1.62 lasted approx 12k miles
w/o restrictor best 60' 1.62 lasted approx 11k miles.

however with my first clutch i wasnt nearly as modded as i was with my second stock clutch.