Bov Help...
here is another problem i found with my car..stock works best..i say..
i will be honest im now back to the factory... what im going to do is make the spring on the tial really weak.. being how i have everything opened up i can really hear what goes on with the turbo... the factory is open 70% of the time when we drive, even at idle.. its for the mass airflow meter.. and the way mitsu designed our turbo setup... since i have everything opened up, it makes the prob even worse.. if you buy a bigger turbo it will solve the prob.. its just that our turbos spool so easy they dont want to slow down.. the waste gate should regulate it but its to small of a vacuum drop for it to open.. thats why the factory bov has a weak spring to bleed of the pressure.. but if your on it the bov will stay shut because the pressure in the i/c pipe ( trying to open the bov) and the pressure going to the top of the bov, (vacuum line going to the bov ) are equal and the spring holds it shut... my advice to you is lighten up the spring till you dont hear any flutter, but tight enough to keep it closed under full throttle... mine will open up even if i keep the boost up to 15 psi very light load on the motor.. but if i give it a just a little gas it will shut till the load lessens on the motor and then the bov will start to open letting some pressure out for the turbo to scroll down..
i will be honest im now back to the factory... what im going to do is make the spring on the tial really weak.. being how i have everything opened up i can really hear what goes on with the turbo... the factory is open 70% of the time when we drive, even at idle.. its for the mass airflow meter.. and the way mitsu designed our turbo setup... since i have everything opened up, it makes the prob even worse.. if you buy a bigger turbo it will solve the prob.. its just that our turbos spool so easy they dont want to slow down.. the waste gate should regulate it but its to small of a vacuum drop for it to open.. thats why the factory bov has a weak spring to bleed of the pressure.. but if your on it the bov will stay shut because the pressure in the i/c pipe ( trying to open the bov) and the pressure going to the top of the bov, (vacuum line going to the bov ) are equal and the spring holds it shut... my advice to you is lighten up the spring till you dont hear any flutter, but tight enough to keep it closed under full throttle... mine will open up even if i keep the boost up to 15 psi very light load on the motor.. but if i give it a just a little gas it will shut till the load lessens on the motor and then the bov will start to open letting some pressure out for the turbo to scroll down..
THe c-clip ensures a good seal between the dejon tool hks flange and the hks ssqv. But it needs that O-ring to help it seal. I don't even know how you're still holding boost without that o-ring. I say just ditch that bov. The bov having no adjustment screw (even though you don't touch it if you did have it), is a really big problem. Gotta ditch it and get another one or talk to hks.
UPDATE**************
well i bought a vacuum check valve (i missed placed the other one i had), and my car is running perfect. guys i want to thank all of you for your help
. i love our evo community!
well i bought a vacuum check valve (i missed placed the other one i had), and my car is running perfect. guys i want to thank all of you for your help
i bought the eids and installed it myself took bout 15 min... havent had a stalling issue since...
mods:
k&n intake
greddy BOV
hks eids
forge mbc @ 22psi
turboxs fmic
arp head studs
flash by Sean Ivey @ IveyTune
mods:
k&n intake
greddy BOV
hks eids
forge mbc @ 22psi
turboxs fmic
arp head studs
flash by Sean Ivey @ IveyTune



. freak i have to find the black ring! could this bov still work?
