Right, I understand it was the detonating that killed that cylinder; what I was saying was that I was going to bring the boost down to 20psi that night anyway due to the front/back-pressure efficiency issue.

And I read about 25psi at 8k; the stock turbo was pumping quite nicely!

Thanks for the insight about not driving it... the mitsu dealer's service shop told me to my face that it shouldn't get any worse and that I could drive it on my road trip. I decided to play it save and took another car instead, btw.

On another note, I *love* the guys at my mitsu dealer service shop. They haven't done anything that could get them in hot water with mitsu, but they've made it clear that they're on my side, and have been *very* helpful in my work. I wish I would've listened to them more... Just thought I'd throw that in there, considering how much anti-mitsu-service sentiment gets tossed around here... It should be obvious, but sometimes it's best to actually come out and say it: they're not *all* bad.

When they quoted $3,500.00 as the worst case to get me a new short-block *and* a new cylinder head, I thought that was a pretty chunk of change. I told them as much, and they said I seemed bright enough to do it myself, considering all the other work I'd done, and could buy it myself and do it in my garage for about $2k.

Now *that's* honest service!

 

if you really live in my dreams you must be in socal in which case i say... **** the motor... take the head off and sell the short block to someone who needs it worse than you.

then proceed to call up roadrace engineering and tell them you want a 4g64 galant block built with all the stuff they like and then say you have a stock evo head that you want built at the same time and that you want all the goodies seemlessly wed.

then take your new engine on its honeymoon. expect this to take a LONG time... but know in the end with your ems already in place that these mods will get the most use and efficiency extracted from them.

btw... galant block will cost you like 500 bucks.... beat that with a stick... taht leaves over enough money for you to get that head built that you weren't expecting to build (or at least get you started enough to think about dumping more money on it ;]).

 

Funny you should say that... I will be in Socal soon! Coronado.

 

just get used 4g63 engine from crashed evo
check private sale on this forum.

 

sorry to hear about the engine. btw i love this forum - no flamming just good advice!

 

Man, I'm trying to pay you a compliment and give you due respect. Please don't get defensive. I really mean that you are a top notch mechanic. Trust me, I've seen lots of bad engine rebuilds. Don't sell yourself short, it's not easy to find somebody that knows how to build an engine right. Like I said, I've been a car enthusiast for nearly 40 years and I've had bad experiences with rebuilt motors and transmissions. I don't doubt that you can do it right, but I tell you for a fact that it's much easier to get a bad engine build job than a good one.

Peace

 

Unless you are running upgraded springs and retainers, 8k revs could float your valves I think.

 

Ok, time to bring this post back from the dead...

I'm out of initial training, but I'm still in Great Lakes, IL. My poor limping car is still parked in Denver, CO, ever since I blew the #4cyl in April.

So, here's where I need some help and advice:

1.) Is there a resource in Denver I can use for help? If I need to take a peek inside my engine, I'll definitely need some guidance. I could figure it out myself, I'm sure, but I'd rather not learn all the hard little lessons of how to inspect my cylinder-head, pistons, and block the hard way.

2.) Is it realistic to think I could get in there and find the problem, get the parts, and then fix it between Dec 17 and Jan 1? What about if I had a mechanic (see question #1) get in there and do the inspection before I got there, so I knew what to fix and ordered the parts before I got home?

I report to San Diego on Jan 3. (My birthday, as luck would have it). I would really like to *drive* there, and have a car (especially *my* car!) again.

 

Short block from here (http://www.mitsupartsdirect.com/) with a core: $1700 plus shipping.

New head if needed; $1000 approx.

Pray your turbo is in one piece

Could even ask them about an assembled long block, then all you have to do is pull the old one out and put the new one in.

You might want to call Jim at TEC and ask him who would be good for your R and R in the area; http://www.turboengineering.com/ . They do some turbos and should be able to help out. He can also check out your turbo.

Can also call RRE if you are interested one of those bad boy 4g64s if you want to roll the dice 4g63.com

It will be cheaper and quicker to get a new shortblock than to chance rebuilding yours.

If you want ball bark PARTS pricing you can take the part numbers from www.mitsupartsdirect.com and plug them in here: http://www.mitsubishiparts.net/

 

Bump...

Seriously, does anyone know any tuners they trust in Denver??? Phone numbers would be great...

 

Like I said, Call Jim at TEC. He's in Golden Colorado. He'd know if there are any good tuners in your state. 800-950-8876.

 

Yeah, their phone number, 800-950-8876, is disconnected...

 

whats your number...i will call you and explain what to do and some other options for you...

 

Hi all, so here's the latest.

I've gotten the head off and looked into the cylinders, so now I can show you exactly what I'm working with:

All four cylinders:

Cylinder #1:

Cylinder #2:

Cylinder #3:

Cylinder #4 (Ack!):

Cylinder head:

Cylinder head dome for cylinder #4 (Ick!:


Nice, huh?

So, the guys at MAC Autosport have offered the following as a solution / upgrade set:

• Remove, restore, rebore and reinstall block
• Inspect/restore head, valve replacements as necessary
• Exedy single disc organic clutch
• AMS 2.3L stroker kit
• HKS intake/exhaust 264 cams to replace my 272's (Stroker kit lowers top end rpm's, which is where those 272's offer most power, so 264's are a better fit now)
• Fidanza intake/exhaust cam gears
• Nitrous Reinstall (I never managed to finish it, and in retrospect, I put the jets in the wrong place, on the "top" side of the intake manifold, instead of underneath)
• Wallbro 255lph fuel pump
• Bosch boost solenoid to replace my MBC, so AEM EMS can control boost
• AMS Fuel Rail
• Precision 880cc Injectors
• 5 hour Tune with AWD dyno, to cover AEM EMS and cam gear tuning

So, the big question is, is this worth the $5k I'll probably drop for the whole thing, and am I missing anything?

 

If you were in Great Lakes you should have talked to AMS. Did you just grad from Boot camp
and if so wow hope you have some money saved caus your going to need it. I am a RDC here and I can tell ya its not cheap having a EVO. P.S I have the red one on base.