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Blew my engine, please help!!!

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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 08:47 AM
  #61  
Dutch's Avatar
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From: Your dreams...
Originally Posted by Fourdoor
I agree 100% with this, and would also say to stick with the MBC. Easy to use, and no real reason to spend money on something else. Also, my next step is a stroker kit, and I will be spinning it to at least 8,000 RPM, possibly higher if my engine builder says it will hold together and the dyno sheet shows any advantage to spinning it that high.

Keith
Which stroker kit? Seems to me that if the crank is going to get more stress from the longer stroke, one would want to lower oneself from the 7,500 redline, not the other way around... ?

Unless, of course, you're using a bottom end forged by God, cold-treated by Jesus, and lubricated by Claudia Schiffer's p**** lips... (Sorry, couldn't resist; kudos to Bill Hicks.)

But seriously, what's your thinking here?
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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 10:03 PM
  #62  
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From: Rosedale, IN
This is on the Buschur setup, but the AMS works just as well.

The stock crank is used in virtually evey 2.0 liter buildup and people spin those to 9,500 all the time without issues, and people using a 2.0 crank in a 2.4 block (long rod configuration) are spinning them past 10,000 without issues.

Since the stock 2.0 crank takes 9,500 RPM in a 2.0 engine without problems I figure I am pretty safe at 8,000 RPM on a 2.4 crank used in the 2.0 block. It all will depend on what my dyno sheets look like though. If the engine makes good power at that RPM I will do it, but if power starts falling off in the upper RPM's I will back off a bit.

Keith
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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 10:10 PM
  #63  
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From: Tucson
NOS usage is basicly a contract. You install it and you are agreeing to almost guarantee blowing the engine up, it is the matter of time.

Yeah, I am ready for the blame from those that have been using the NOS for a while and are running great track times but you know and we know that it is just a matter of time. NOS kills your engines violently.

I am 100% against usage of NOS, the porcentages of total engine destruction amongs any NOS owners vs the totla destruction of engine with engine without NOS is greater than 10 to 1.

If you are putting a 100shot into an already 200hp per liter engine then that is your answer: Total engine destruction.

Sorry if I am being an a$$ but I just feel like people have to learn the hardway!! also, sorry for not helping you much on this issue. My only suggestion is that if you are going to use NOS, use it as chiller and always externally(on the intercooler) otherwise reduce your amount of NOS being injected(perhaps a 25hp shot)

my .50c

Last edited by fromWRXtoEVO; Dec 23, 2005 at 10:14 PM.
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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 11:49 PM
  #64  
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From: Davis, California
Originally Posted by Dutch
Which stroker kit? Seems to me that if the crank is going to get more stress from the longer stroke, one would want to lower oneself from the 7,500 redline, not the other way around... ?
I'm not the hugest Evo expert here, but, if I remember correctly, the Evo's stock redline has more to do with the valvetrain than the bottom-end.

Also, a 100mm stroker crankshaft (2.3L) would have the same inertial load at 7500 RPM as the stock 88mm crankshaft (IIRC) would have at roughly 8170 RPM. So the requisite RPM drop due to increased stroke isn't as great as it might at first seem. (I certainly would have thought it more, but the math doesn't lie.)
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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 11:59 PM
  #65  
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From: in front of your car
your problem is that u used AEM. if you're gonna plunk the $ to buy a standalone u might as well get the best (MoTeC). with electronics u get what u pay for. look into some Omega Pistons (stock on FQ-400) & pull the block & head to check for any cracks or craters. you probably thru a rod or 2 (Crower, Tomei, Eagle, JUN, or HKS). check those and replace them w/new ones. u might have also stretched the head so u may need to get new head bolts. also pull the turbo & check that as well. it can handle spikes at high boost but not sustained blasting for long periods.
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Old Dec 24, 2005 | 12:17 AM
  #66  
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From: Louisiana
you cracked the 4th piston and possibly floated some valves.... i did the same thing.... you don't need to pull the whole motor out.... you can replace the piston from the bottom.. also, you can check the valves to see if you dropped one or two..
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Old Dec 24, 2005 | 12:23 AM
  #67  
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From: in front of your car
Originally Posted by Fourdoor
This is on the Buschur setup, but the AMS works just as well.

The stock crank is used in virtually evey 2.0 liter buildup and people spin those to 9,500 all the time without issues, and people using a 2.0 crank in a 2.4 block (long rod configuration) are spinning them past 10,000 without issues.

Since the stock 2.0 crank takes 9,500 RPM in a 2.0 engine without problems I figure I am pretty safe at 8,000 RPM on a 2.4 crank used in the 2.0 block. It all will depend on what my dyno sheets look like though. If the engine makes good power at that RPM I will do it, but if power starts falling off in the upper RPM's I will back off a bit.

Keith
bcuz of the added stroke (& more cc's) you won't need to rev it high to make the same power. what i have seen is that a stroker motor has gobs more of torque & accelerate quicker due to that torque but revving to 7500rpm has been the key. the 2.0 on the other hand, will need higher revs & can make the same power but it's power will not fall off as sharply. 1 of the Mynes shop cars uses a 4G64 (2.4L) w/280 cams & the dyno graph held like a 2.0 even with the rev limiter set to 8K rpm!!!! i did alot of homework on strokers since they were offered early for evo's & decided against them. for the price of a stroker i could get a 2.4 block, modify the water pump, slap on the evo head & you're done.
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Old Dec 24, 2005 | 11:41 PM
  #68  
SpeehDemon's Avatar
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From: NYC
Soon as you pull the head off you will know whats going on, Shouldn't take you that long. Good Luck , do the 2.3 stroker with the 35r
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