TURBevO8

iTrader: (25)

I am doing this after work today. Finally! I will be following this write-up the whole time. Hopefully no snags and I can get it done before dark. I am starting work on it around 4:00 so hopefully no longer than 3 or 4 hours. Undertray is already off too so that should help. Wish me luck!

DrunkMunkyStyle

iTrader: (5)

Is it advisable to use the bolts that came with the eBay O2 housing to secure to the hotside or should I purchase new ones?

DrunkMunkyStyle

iTrader: (5)

Don't know if this helps any but the bolts have "AA 8.8" and "N 8.8" on the heads.

Mad_SB

iTrader: (8)

I went ahead and ordered new ones, not sure if it is required, bu the mitsu bolts seem to be far better quality.

DrunkMunkyStyle

iTrader: (5)

Ok, for people like me who had no idea what a grade 8 bolt was before screwing with this hotside, you will probably appreciate this.

I have found that grade 5 and grade 8 are standard sizes and "class 8 or 8.8" and "class 10 or 10.9" are the metric equivalents. Class 10.9 is the metric equivalent to grade 8. These are the bolts and nuts you are going to want when searching at the bolt store.

It seems like Georgia is a void of M10x1.25 class 10.9 bolts. I have searched at Lowes, Home Depot, Ace Hardware, Autozone, and Advanced Auto. Some of them do have 10.9 bolts but they won't have the right thread pitch. Or, the ones that do have M10x1.25 do not have them in anything over 30mm lengths. Very frustrating. I am going to check one last place (a specialty fastener store I just learned about) before I give up and go to Mitsubishi.

sonicnofadz

iTrader: (4)

Try http://www.fastenal.com/

MeKilla

iTrader: (2)

bump

AlexEvo

Not to beat a dead horse but my car has about 13k miles on it and im about to do this mod. Not entirely worried about snapping fasteners(Gotta love living in Southern California). And to clear some things up, BOLTS have a nut on the end of them. SCREWS have a piece of "material" that they screw into. So as not to confuse people, there are 2 SCREWS at the back of the manifold flange(the square portion that the turbo attaches to) and there are 2 studs at the front. People replace the front studs with SCREWS because it makes removing the manifold INFINITELY easier. My question for you guys is, we SHOULD be replacing all the gaskets right? I know they are multi-layer steel ones but if you look close you'll notice that the new gaskets have a section where they actually seal at in which when the 2 pieces of material are tightened together, that small section actually crushes to seal the gap/accomodate for any MINOR imperfections in manufacturing, if you reuse those gaskets with old/new parts you run a much higher risk of an exhaust leak due to the fact that the gasket has already been crushed once and will not spring back into its normal shape. Also, you can get the O2 sensor out very easy if you use the proper wrench for it. I've done the Up Pipe install on a WRX over a dozen times and its never easy but it is easier than usual if you make modifications to the lower heat shield and such is the case with the Evo it seems. Don't remove the heat shield entirely because it is there for a reason, just modify it to gain better access to the O2 sensor while still retaining as much as possible to serve its purpose of keeping heat away from other components. If you cannot reuse it due to the O2 housing you have, then if possible, wrap it, otherwise just hope for the best.

Now that all that BS is out of the way, i'm curious to know has anyone tried the Invidia O2 housing with the 10.5 Single Flapper hotside? It looks to be cast iron which is OK by me as long as it flows better, but possibly more importantly, it looks to have all the threaded holes in the right spots to attach the lower heat shield. Can anyone confirm this? Also, as a company how good would you guys say Invidia is when it comes to fitment/quality/durability?

EvoTio

iTrader: (10)

LOL, I live in California and have snapped studs/bolts so that doesn't prevent us from not having this happen. It's the constant heat cycles that those studs/bolts go through that can get them stuck in there. Use Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster to soak everything well overnight if possible for cheap insurance. As for gaskets, replace them with new ones. That's cheap insurance also. It's not a hard job, but I woudn't want to go back and do it all over again just to replace a leaky gasket.

whitersevo

iTrader: (15)

Yeah that is for sure.. I order a good amount of parts from Mitsubshi just for the insurance / less of a headache lol..

sonicnofadz

iTrader: (4)

Not sure if this has been mentioned before, but I believe it is much easier to just take out the entire manifold+turbo+o2 assembly as a whole. This requires disconnecting the oil + coolant lines (big deal) but it makes working on the turbo itself much easier (and safer). If you leave the turbo still attached to the oil + coolant lines, it sits horizontally, and if you have to take a hammer to tap the hotside loose, it might come off and crush the turbine blades (NOT GOOD). Instead, if you just take the turbo out completely, and sit it on a bench (vertically with the compressor side facing down), it makes it much easier to remove, and lessens the chance of fan damage. I have taken apart (and rebuilt) many different types of Mitsubishi & Garrett turbos and this is way is MUCH safer. Don't be a slacker and leave the turbo in the car.

AlexEvo

whiters, maybe i was just talking out of my ****. ill leave that post for AFTER i finish the 10.5 update and ill let you guys know what happens.

WarmPepsi

iTrader: (35)

amen, 100x easier to pull the whole turbo + mani.

i did it to swap out my gaskets, mani to turbo, turbo to o2.

Takes right at an hr to pull it.

AlexEvo

warm, doesnt that require pulling the radiator as well?

WarmPepsi

iTrader: (35)

i do it for ease. might be able to get it outwithout it, but it's cake to pull it, and coolant needs swapped every so often