Well I have a problem with the car having a rough idle and also stalling sometimes at red lights. After the stall it sometimes is hard to start. I also just changed the plugs cause I couldn't get it to start the otherday "possibly fouled plugs"? The mods I have are listed in my signature.

I am currently considering 3 ways to possibly fix it.

1. A'pexi SAFC 2 - I think the problem may be air/fuel ratio
2. HKS EIDS - this might help the idle but would it help the starting.
3. Another Dynoflash - First was a mail in

I plan on trying to get one of these or any other options done next week. Just wanted some of your guys input before I sank the cash into the wrong thing. Thanks your help is appreciated.

 

I don't know why everyone thinks the safc has anything to do with the idle. It doesn't unless it was installed wrong. Anyway, check your turboxs bov. It may be open during idle and causing the engine to stall. That's the most likely candidate.

 

^^^Very good point are you running rec. or vta??

 

Were you flashed for all the mods you have listed? I would look into the txs valve, or your intake.

 

I was flashed for the mods listed below. Also the Blow off Valve is a VTA. I also dont have a SAFC installed but was thinking of getting one to remedy this situation.

 

if you hook up you SAFC it will correct the problem! its all becuase of VTA

 

Thats what I thought also but anyone else have any input.

 

how much boost are you running & was this BOV included on the base flash?

i run all 6 washers in my turbo xs RFL with no probs. i tested it in 2 mile increments starting at 0 washers, 1,2, so on. i don't have any stalling or flutter problems.
the HKS EIDS will help tremendously if you're still on a stock ECU. if you run an aftermarket ECU, this problem can be tuned out.

you can also attempt to bypass the extra length in the BOV vacuum line (run line str8 from BOV to intake manifold) to see if that helps. it may respond a little better.

 

I dont believe an afc will help with those problems. Ive seen others who have an afc with a vta bov and still have the problems. I would ditch the cool pssh sound, and get a valve that will hold good boost and make the car run good. If anything you can get a aps dual vent valve for cheaper than the afc, and will make the car sound good and run awesome.

 

Its "probably" your BOV, the fact that its VTA isn't really the big problem, the fact that its probably partially open at idle and venting metered air is what is causing your problem.

When the valve opens easily, it makes for good drivability and reduces the risk of compressor surge, unfortunately, if its partially open at idle, a portion of the already metered air, is not being vented back into the intake, so basically its "lost" so the car will run extremely rich and idle poorly.

First thing I would check, feel the outlet on the BOV at idle, can you feel anything coming out (or sucking into) it.. (Place your hand over the vent and see if the idle improves)

The solution realistically if its the BOV is twofold..

1) Recirculate your BOV back to the intake
2) adjust the BOV so it remains closed at idle, but still opens adequately between shifts and part throttle boost conditions..

I would do both, but either should reduce the problem..

HOWEVER, there's a big caveat, it will not solve a stalling problem if you are driving and "Blowoff" and let the engine drop down to idle.. That can only be solved with recirculating your BOV, or using a device like an EIDS or blowthrough MAF sensor.. If you ask me, the best solution and cheapest will be to recirculate your BOV.

Hopefully this will help you out.. There are some other possible problems once you rule out the BOV.. That is, check for leaks in your intercooler piping, or not-so-obvious vacuum leaks.
(I had a vacuum line pop off my DV once, the obvious thing was the car wouldn't hold boost, but the side effect was the open hose resulted in a huge vacuum leak, and the car wouldn't idle)

 

Found the problem. Throttle cable had slack in it pulled it back tight and now good as new. Bolts might have vibrated loose but they have locktite on there now.

 

I'm running the same bov. Do you have washers? Mines will flutter and open when the throttle is half-way. This bov just like to open at the slightest touch of the gas pedal. I tried a 1g bov and the driveability was better but I felt a lost in power. The car just pulls harder and turbo seems to spool better with the turbo xs rfl. Have you tried a different bov and did you notice this on your EVO?

 

wow just went thru the same thing with another gsr, it was the ****ty turboxs bov, put the factory one back on and it will quit. that is unless it has gone stupid so many times it wasted the front o2 sensor like this one did. the turboxs bov sticks up when it should open, causing the evo to keep its boost pressure.

 

English please

What did you mean by quit? the fluttering? SO your 02 got hosed due to the turbo xs rfl bov? Hmm makes me want to take a look at my 02 sensor now. Stick up and keep boost pressure, is this why the turbo would spool faster?

Thanks

 

I am running 5 washers I took a few out and tried it and man the turbo lag is really noticable. Only other BOV I had was stock.I dont have any fluttering problems. Just the stalling and such which wasnt the BOV. Runs fin now that the cable is tight.