AFR 12's are for n/a cars or FI cars?

 

you'll only see forced induction engines around 12:1 on race gas. I believe its better to have near 11:1 and lower on 93 pump gas. could be wrong though.

 

Oh it will drop them down to the 10:1 for sure. First the pump will over run the regulator and base pressure is going to be like 52 psi. so not only are you fixing a supply problem you are going in the other direction.

 

ok, that's good. I'll actually be happy at around 11 straight from 3500 rpm.


I'll keep you posted guys. Thanks.

nothing but love in this room.

 

Look for afr in the 11.0-11.1 range once boost hits 20 psi on pump gas. That should be pretty safe. Running 12 on pump gas is asking for trouble with the differences you get.

 

yeh, that's fairely obvious as well AFR ratio, if you know your car.

I'm not asking because I don't know, I'm asking because I don't know about how the n/a cars are setup as far as AFR.

I'm setting mine at 11.2

 

Hey, a thought just occured to me today.

I bought my car with 14,000 miles on it. Now, mitsubishi dealership actually turn the whole car back into the stock and from the holes in the firewall, it looks as some mods were there.

What if my car is flashed before I bought it. Since the dealership can't detect that ECU's been flashed, they could of just well as put the car back to stock with the flashed ECU?

...

That worries me now.

 

looks lean to me

 

found these links to compare your plugs







http://www.centuryperformance.com/spark2.asp



http://www.bullittarchive.com/Mainte...g_Spark_Plugs/



http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/plugs.html



http://www.buckeye-illinois.com/sparkplugs.htm



http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/spkplghnbook.htm



http://www.ultralightnews.ca/article...sparkplugs.htm



http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tech/sparkplugs/

 

yeh, i've already seen all those before I posted.

but the thing is according to the good chart I saw, they're saying that without the hot spots on the cereamic foundation, it looks normal....

give me a sec.

I'm gonna pull my new plugs out.

 

An example of overheating is shown below. Note the dead white or gray insulator nose which appears "blistered." Electrode gap wear rate will be considerably in excess of that normally expected. This is often caused by overadvanced ignition timing, poor engine cooling system efficiency (scale, stoppages, low level), a very lean A/F mixture, a leaking intake manifold, or the use of a spark plug too hot for the application.

 

since i am no expert on spark plugs, it looks to me either to lean or normal. mine were not that white when i first looked at them(normal) =
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=115144 , after that i was i was running too rich and they turned black =

 

new plugs after quick WOT.

it's not as dark as burning's plugs.



it's hard to see in the picture above, but the timing mark is at the mark where it curves.

 

ok, last one.

 

it's a lot whiter than yours burning on that link. but it's not white, it's like... light brown.