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Help!!! Fuel Cut @ 1psi and 4K RPM

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Old May 6, 2005 | 12:14 PM
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34Turbo's Avatar
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Help!!! Fuel Cut @ 1psi and 4K RPM

Its kind of a long story but here is the short version. I took the car in for a clutch install a couple of days ago. After 4 days, finally, I was able to pick up the car. When I started the car it felt a little funny at idle so I thought, cool, its probably because of the ecu readjusting or the vta bov. However as soon as I started moving the car went into cut off. Literally my boost gauge was fluctuating around 1psi, and my RPM would not go above 3-4K RPM. Also my girlfriend noticed that the car was literally shooting out gas from the back (Full 3'' TB w/ test pipe). The mechanic looked more confused then me. He said he will send it out to Mitsubishi today to get it checked out. I am thinking maybe some kind of major boost leak, but the dealer said it may also be because of leaving out the battery for 4 days (I don't understand how thats possible)...

Has anyone experienced something similar? Any comments are appreciated.

Mods:
Hallman BC
Walbro Fuel Pump
Injen Air Intake w Upper Intercooler Piping
HKS SSQV VTA BOV
Dynoflashed ECU
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Old May 6, 2005 | 12:16 PM
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I've heard people having problems with certain intakes, but that would cause you to run 1psi. Is your bov on right? On tight? Venting to the atmosphere is not helping your problems.
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Old May 6, 2005 | 12:16 PM
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Most likely they didn't reconnect your MAF. Make sure that it is plugged in.
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Old May 6, 2005 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by RedUSEVO
Most likely they didn't reconnect your MAF. Make sure that it is plugged in.
MAF sensor and all connections were on the intake. The mechanic said he did not touch the intake, upper ic piping or any of the connections in that are. When I inspected it everything looked right...
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Old May 6, 2005 | 12:22 PM
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Interesting. The condition you describe is the exact problem you would have if the MAF was disconnected; I know from experience. Did you inspect it after the problem started? If not, you should, if so, disconnect the battery for a couple of hours, reconnect and try again. I still strongly feel it is MAF related.
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Old May 6, 2005 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by RedUSEVO
Interesting. The condition you describe is the exact problem you would have if the MAF was disconnected; I know from experience. Did you inspect it after the problem started? If not, you should, if so, disconnect the battery for a couple of hours, reconnect and try again. I still strongly feel it is MAF related.
I am going to call him up right now and see if he can tinker with it. If everything is tight then I'll tell him to disconnect battery and reconnect. Thanks!
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Old May 6, 2005 | 12:27 PM
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No problem. Post if the problem persists.
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Old May 6, 2005 | 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by RedUSEVO
Interesting. The condition you describe is the exact problem you would have if the MAF was disconnected; I know from experience. Did you inspect it after the problem started? If not, you should, if so, disconnect the battery for a couple of hours, reconnect and try again. I still strongly feel it is MAF related.
+1 on this opinion.

-Paul
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Old May 6, 2005 | 01:12 PM
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I know this may sound stupid as well, but check all i/c piping. Any leak might make that happen too. There may be a leak in one of the lower i/c pipng or even one to the cold side. Just a suggestion. You can also always tell me to take a leap off a cliff
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Old May 6, 2005 | 01:18 PM
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i can almost guarantee you that your maf is not conected. i'd like to know how they did your clutch job withought pulling off i/c piping or intake.
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Old May 6, 2005 | 01:20 PM
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From: DFW
i had that problem on a previous car i had and the maf sensor was broken, visual inspection showed nothing but after several tests thats what we narrowed it down to and after replaceing it everything worked fine
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Old May 6, 2005 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by WHTEVO
i can almost guarantee you that your maf is not conected. i'd like to know how they did your clutch job withought pulling off i/c piping or intake.
+1

There is no way he can install your clutch without removing UICpipes and Intake. There are alot of bolt and connections on top of the tranny thats needs to be removed for a clutch installation.
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Old May 6, 2005 | 01:46 PM
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From: Central MA
You checked the maf connection.. did you try following the wires back..... The clutch install requires them taking out a ton of stuff.. they may have left a sensor un hooked... Bool says its about 10 hr job... i picked up the mitsu manuals for 120$ either the maf or they didnt hook up one of the Vac lines on the bottom of the turbo... there are 2 i beleive down there.. check to see if there is water in with the spark plugs.. if you get water on top of one car will drive fine with no boost.. as soon as you hit boost.. youll short out which ever cyl has the water in the plug and shoot flames due to the fact that its just gas going through the cyl with no burn... your plug wires may not be seated properly... or your plug/plugs may be bad or loose....
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Old May 6, 2005 | 01:50 PM
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there was a wire grounded to the tranny I almost 4 got about it... maybe thats the prob... also U HAVE TO THAKE THE INTAKE OUT FOR A CLUTCH JOB... i dunno y he wouldn't ??? lol.
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Old May 6, 2005 | 01:52 PM
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From: Central MA
intake , battery, upp, both front axles, starter, center diff, dp are the only things that you need to actuall remove before you lower the tranny ....
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