dyno 10.5 + 280 + alky
IMO, reaching peak flow at 22psi is a bit late. A better setting would be ~20psi, especially with that nozzle size. However, if things are running on the rich side as-is, it may not help you (not without a retune anyway).
As for the difference noted in A/F between the dyno and the street, Al expressed that it may be due to a flaky sensor on the dyno, which is a possiblity. However, my hunch is that it may be attributable to an inability of the dyno to reproduce real-world loading conditions. If this is the case, it would not only affect A/F, but your power numbers as well.
As for the difference noted in A/F between the dyno and the street, Al expressed that it may be due to a flaky sensor on the dyno, which is a possiblity. However, my hunch is that it may be attributable to an inability of the dyno to reproduce real-world loading conditions. If this is the case, it would not only affect A/F, but your power numbers as well.
Remember the customer who made over 400 + tq on the stock turbo also had the nerve to push his car to the very limit of what could be made and was the kind of guy who wanted to push things on the risky side.
This car in this thread is tuned with a significant margin of saftey so that its engine will be safe and last.
IMHO 350 whp / tq is a good number on pump gas.
There is always more power left on the table - the trick to careful tuing for street driven cars is to strike a rational and reasonable compromise between ultimate power and saftey margin
This car in this thread is tuned with a significant margin of saftey so that its engine will be safe and last.
IMHO 350 whp / tq is a good number on pump gas.
There is always more power left on the table - the trick to careful tuing for street driven cars is to strike a rational and reasonable compromise between ultimate power and saftey margin
Originally Posted by Ted B
IMO, reaching peak flow at 22psi is a bit late. A better setting would be ~20psi, especially with that nozzle size. However, if things are running on the rich side as-is, it may not help you (not without a retune anyway).
As for the difference noted in A/F between the dyno and the street, Al expressed that it may be due to a flaky sensor on the dyno, which is a possiblity. However, my hunch is that it may be attributable to an inability of the dyno to reproduce real-world loading conditions. If this is the case, it would not only affect A/F, but your power numbers as well.
As for the difference noted in A/F between the dyno and the street, Al expressed that it may be due to a flaky sensor on the dyno, which is a possiblity. However, my hunch is that it may be attributable to an inability of the dyno to reproduce real-world loading conditions. If this is the case, it would not only affect A/F, but your power numbers as well.
In addition - dyno operators most typially measure a/f at the tail pipe - not the down pipe or mid section of exhuast
A dyno is a good reference tool when you know what to look for
BTW - when you tune rich and your alcohol system fails - you still are rich enough so the engine does not blow up. If you tune on the edge at high boost with a lean a/f and the alcohol fails then you instantly melt a piston
IMHO - if you can make decent power and have a clean spark at a richer a/f that is better for a street car. If you want more power, better to add more mods. My race car runs a 10.9 a/f and is the fastest evo without nos in the world, lean does not make fast.
Originally Posted by DynoFlash
Usually dynos are totally ineffective at accurately reproducing a real world load, this is particularly the case on a dyno jet...lean does not make fast.
And yes, "yesevo", if one is working with a dyno that cannot reproduce actual street loading, what's optimized for the dyno may not translate directly to the street.
As for the statement "Lean does not make fast", I wholeheartedly agree, especially since it is an established fact that the torque curve falls faster on the lean side of optimum as opposed to the rich side, which is more 'friendly' to error for obvious reasons.
Last edited by Ted B; May 23, 2005 at 07:00 AM.
Finally ran it. The stock intercooler is definitely hurting my trap speeds in this heat and humidty. It was a steamy 90 degrees and 80% humidity. Hoping for 11's when it cools off a bit. This was the best (3rd of 12) run of the day and the boost was still at 25psi which is what I run on the street. I turned up the boost later, but the trap speeds were the same whether on 25psi or 29psi.
nice
Sir Lurks Alot I just want to say this thread has been great, posted your mods, posted your dyno numbers, posted your time slip, these threads are exactly the type of thing evom needs, people who post up there info for others to learn from. Also the fact that you are open and openminded when people question your numbers and results is a breath of fresh air, instead of the usual *****ing and moaning.
Scorke
Scorke
Originally Posted by scorke
Sir Lurks Alot I just want to say this thread has been great, posted your mods, posted your dyno numbers, posted your time slip, these threads are exactly the type of thing evom needs, people who post up there info for others to learn from. Also the fact that you are open and openminded when people question your numbers and results is a breath of fresh air, instead of the usual *****ing and moaning.
Scorke
Scorke
355-360whp? So many people are pushing within 5-10 whp of those numbers on pump gas without alky. What's the point of running alky if you're only going to push pump gas numbers?
Your car should push 390-400whp with that setup.

Your car should push 390-400whp with that setup.






