After installing my hks vta bov everything worked fine, drives just like stock and has a cool chirping and whoosh noice at the same time. But some problems came up after I installed the Apexi intake. Remember I haven not tuned my car yet.

1. My ebc was set to 20.8 psi before with no problems and after the intake I got fuel cut when I floor it. When I turned it down to 19.5 psi it didnt have fuel cut. Any idea why?

2.Now with the intake my bov flutters/surges (what ever you call it) when I change gears at about 3-4k rpm. But it works fine changing gears at above 6k. Is this normal, how come it never happened before I installed the intake?

3.If I install the fuel pump I should be able to turn up the boost correct? Right now 1st and 2nd it doesnt pull as hard as before but in 3rd it feels the same. I want to turn up the boost to try and get some of that power back that I lost. Will be getting a tune in about 1 month so Im just gonna leave it as is. Too lazy to put back the thing again, unless I get bored again.

 

I would just wait to turn the boost up till you get tuned if you are getting it done soon.

The reason you are getting fuel cut is because fuel cut is caused by too high of an airflow reading through the mass air sensor. Intakes have been known to mess with the readings on evos mass air meters.

Not sure why your bov would be acting up now if you are venting to atmosphere. The intake shouldnt have much effect on it.

 

You must have been giving it more gas when you first did the BOV to listen to it... now you are used to it and drive normal again. Aftermarket BOV's are tighter than the stocker therefore take more boost to open it correctly. The HKS one is notorius for sounding retarded at low boost levels on our cars. I have one too.. I named it "Tom the Turkey" because he gobbles at low boost. Is what i am forced to do it accelerate more right before I shift when Im just cruising around. That way "Tom" opens correctly. The other thing that will suck is passing on the freeway... get used to giving it a little extra oomph before letting off... otherwise he surges and shakes the car.

My biggest problem with the BOV is my turbo takes a LONG time to spool compared to the stocker.. in fifth gear cruising I can't get it to spool enough to have the BOV vent properly.. I need to accelerate than push my clutch in to let the air out, then start cruising again. Oh well.

 

HKS BOV flutters all the time at low RPM's, i was getting the same thing (surge) on my old car, so i tightend the screw all the way and then it decided to work correctly

 

the best thing i think is never to VTA with out a standalone to eliminate the maf, otherwise the car will never run right. if you do have a piggy back it will set off a CEL when you VTA

 

dam I plan on getting the HKS Fcon Vpro, what should I do? So I should be able to turn the boost back up after I install the fuel pump?

 

I thought you werent suppose to touch that screw?

 

That screw is designed to ensure the BOV does not open at idle (Under vacuum). For our cars you should not need to touch it. To get rid of the fuel cut you should have it reflashed to remove it. Dynoflash will do it for $50. There are ways to cheat it out of cutting fuel by removing airflow signal to the ECU (Subtracting fuel using an AFC for example) but this will only get you so far. The easiest and safest way to get around fuel cut without a reflash would be to use an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, raise your fuel pressure and subtract airflow from the ecu using an AFC or like item. That would be perfectly safe and get around fuel cut for now. But all in all... get it reflashed and dont worry about fuel cut.