I did a search and it was pretty much fruitless in my case. So far all i saw was a couple people with IC hoses popping off giving similar symptoms, but not exactly like mine.

I was on race gas to day and iw ent to the store, came out of the store and started the car, the idle was a little bumpy and then the CEL came on. I thought maybe the p0300. I pull out of the parking lot and i drive off normally, reach 4500 rpm the car jerks. Like fuel, spark boost were all cut. It also seemed VERY VERY low on power. I put it in neutral and give it a rev and it wont rev past 4500. I limp home and pop the hood and check all my hoses and connections but i can see nothing. I start the car again and give a free rev, this time it's fine past 4500. i reset the ECU and the light doesnt come on anymore.

But im still stumped, anyone know the cause of limp mode? I now wish i hadnt reset my ECU so i could have read that code and maybe gotten al ittle more insight.

Anyways, any help would be really appreciated.

thanks

 

awesome, thanks for the help.

 

I'm sorry...I have no information useful to this thread. I just had to point out -- Your title choice....it's just BEGGING to be torn up. My answer: usually too much alcohol

 

That has happened to be, I pulled the code with my Pocketlogger from my DSM. It showed code p0300 which is Random Mis-fire from what im told, i still am not sure what it is from

 

LOL!

hmm...

 

What code was it? Paul's car has done the exact same thing with P0300s. After he shuts off the car and restarts, though, it seems to be fine.

 

sorry couldn't resist.

Limp mode is caused by all sorts of things. It's basically the ecu going into self protect mode as not to damage the motor. Most often too much boost or wrong a/f can send a car into limp mode.

The easiest way to get rid of it, is to clear the code or pull the power on the battery for 20 minutes.

 

i pulled the power on the battery for about 3 seconds and it cleared the code.

 

well 3 seconds isn't going to do it, in your case it probably was a matter of turning the car off and back on. You gotta give the car time to drain all the power from the resistors and such

 

no

3 seconds will do it.

i had a CEL, i removed the negative terminal for 3 seconds. I replaced the terminal, went to autozone got a code reader and there were no codes.

That is how i always reset my codes and keep my radio presets and clock etc. Try it and see.

 

Just because you reset the ECU doesn not mean that it has not stored the code into memory. If you take the car to a dealer they should still be able to pull the code. The computer will store it until they are deleted by the MUT tester. I think this is correct. I am not 100% sure. But I am pretty sure. The computer is able to store multiple codes.

Let say your car sets a code and over time shuts the light off. Well it stores that code into memory. Even if you remove the battery cable the computer keeps that code in memory. So the tech is able to see possible other causes for a certain code. Most people don't realize that a dealer is able to pull codes and see what you may have done to the car to cause a code to pop up.

 

Correct, if it's a critical code, then yes it'll store. However, resetting the ecu can reset things like adapted settings (driving style) and such. I did not mean to imply that pulling the battery will erase the ecu to default settings.

 

No, ECU doesn't have flash type of memory. It will go back to default mode and clear the code once you remove the battery. only way to stay in the memory is to reflash

 

look at my original post.

i went to autozone

got an OBDII scanner

plugged it into the car

turned the car on

checked for codes

there were no codes

 

It will retain codes, that you will NOT! be able to remove despite you removing your battery cable. It is not as simple as that. I just confirmed it this morning.