I really didn't have a problem with stalling. It stalled just a few times. Are you using the correct valve with the VTA mode?

 

I recently just got the Forge Type RS. It should be the right valve. I've only driven it like for 30mins and it only stalled once, so i'll go give it more test drives. I also did the tuning method. Thanks for the help.

 

stalled a few times? I was looking for 0 stalling. If it's going to stall I might be better off keeping the turbo xs rfl in my car since I have it recirculating and the turbo seems to spool a lot faster compare to the 1g and hks bov.

Waiting to get mine so I can test it. Fingers crossed.

 

Well when mine did stall, it was about 105 outside, A/C running, and I have 272 cams, so who knows if it was the valve, or the combination of everything on.

You won't have a problem with this valve.

 

The car completely stock almost stalls if you give it a bad combination of throttle inputs.

I've seen Scott drive, he probably popped the clutch,and missed the gas worring about trying to avoid a bug or something which could make his car dirty for more than 5 seconds.

The stalling is not BOV related.

 

Edit, this a great bov. I was just putting in the clutch way to fast. Put the clutch in slowly and you will have no probs at all. Driving for like almost an hour or so, the bov did not act up at all. Thanks FORGE.

 

is this on the stock ecu?

 

I have a reflash. But still running stock maf.

 

people on this site, including tuners, say that vta should only be used with the aem. does the same apply to this bov? i am not planning on getting the aem, right now i have a safc and will be purchasing a utec soon, so i was wondering if it still would be best to use recirulating rather than vta on this bov?

 

With any MAF equipped car, recirc. is always the best. Period.

Some design elements of our atmospheric valves (dual pistons), including the new RS, aid in their compatibility with some MAF applications, BUT you are still venting metered air, and the ECU, whether factory or aftermarket, may or may not be able to compensate for that.

- The ECU is expecting that the metered air will be dumped back into the intake.
- The ECU dumps fuel to mix with that air.
- When the air is not returned to the intake, the car runs rich.


If the rich condition is severe enough, the car MAY stall or experience drivability issues. If the rich condition is minor, little to no loss of driveability will be experienced.

Aftermarket ECU's, including standalone systems have the ability to compensate for this loss of air, and/or they are MAP sensor based and do not read the intake air in the same way preventing the need for compensation.

All of our dual-piston atmospheric valves have been used successfully on numerous MAF applications, but the majority of those vehicles were tuned to some level which changed the perameters with which the ECU would read the metered air.

 

Yea, with my car if you put the clutch in way too fast the rpm's will drop but the car doesn't die. As long as you watch your clutch engagement the car is running okay.

 

great bov! it does sound like a little rat on low throttle.
I did pressure test. it holds much better than my stock Bov. My cheap pressure guage wasn't correct when I tested. But, It seemed to hold almost double of the stock bov. my setting is currently at - 5 complete turns from the Max.

 

Anyone running the RS with an Injen intake and uicp?

 

With the stock ECU and an MBC holding 21psi to redline should I expect a sloppy idle with this Forge piece in VTA mode? Right now I have the JDM MR piece.

Also, I'm planning an EcuTek flash, intake and axle-back exhaust later this summer. Aside from adjusting the BOV for any changes in boost levels, are there any other changes I should plan on? My objective with the Evo (unlike some of my previous cars) is not to purchase any mods that will need to be eventually replaced or become obsolete as I build the car up.

 

Because the valve uses dual counter-balanced pistons (when used VTA), the valve is not open at idle as may other VTA valves would be.

I am currently working on an animated .gif image illustrating this.

At vacuum/idle, vacuum pulls the main piston open, but the secondary piston stays closed. Under boost, both pistons are closed just as any other valve, and at throttle lift, both pistons are forced open by the residual pressure in the system and return to vacuum in the intake manifold.

VTA valves are not ideal for all mass air-flow sensor equipped vehicles, but this design works well on the Evo's. You should expect a rich fuel condition, however, and a slight loss of gas-milage because of that rich condition.

If you are using a stand-alone engine management, and can tune around that, you have nothing to worry about.

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To illustrate how well this design works, I have been using this valve, setup VTA, on and off for 6 months with absolutely no decrease in driveability aside from a rich fuel condition and slightly lower mpg.

I am still using the stock ECU with the stock programming, but with a boost controller set to 22 PSI.