How important plug gap is...
#1
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How important plug gap is...
After owning my Evo for over two years now, I'm FINALLY getting the tune down.
I didn't realize how important the plug gap was. I always checked the gap and made sure it was as recommended (.030 depending on were you read).
My idle has always sucked. I blamed the 272 cams. Then I installed a H2O/Alcohol injection kit and cranked the boost to 24psi. I would get a high RPM miss. I was fouling plugs like crazy. Then a guy from a Supra forum recommended dropping the gap down .005.
So I installed a new set of NGK BPR7EIX plugs set at .025. WOW!
Car idles like a dream and pulls smoothly all the way to 8K (24psi with h2o/alc injetcion on) with no miss!
I just thought I would share this, because I know there are others out there that didn't know the importance of plug gap on our cars.
I didn't realize how important the plug gap was. I always checked the gap and made sure it was as recommended (.030 depending on were you read).
My idle has always sucked. I blamed the 272 cams. Then I installed a H2O/Alcohol injection kit and cranked the boost to 24psi. I would get a high RPM miss. I was fouling plugs like crazy. Then a guy from a Supra forum recommended dropping the gap down .005.
So I installed a new set of NGK BPR7EIX plugs set at .025. WOW!
Car idles like a dream and pulls smoothly all the way to 8K (24psi with h2o/alc injetcion on) with no miss!
I just thought I would share this, because I know there are others out there that didn't know the importance of plug gap on our cars.
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i guess i never relized how many people dont know the little things like this.. and you put a good heading for people when they search.. see people this is how it should be done when you have useful info..
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As a side note. I am building my own coil-on-plug set-up.
I already have the coils, (Chyrsler 300M sticks), I made the mounting plate, (work of art), I have two different power transister from DSMs, 5 and 7 pins style. Now sure which one will be best yet. I just have to buy an AEM C2DI, wire it and install. Then I CAN go back to a larger gap with no ill effects.
I should have it built for around $325 in parts.
I'd like to know where to get electrical connectors that match up to the transistor and the stock Evo coil connectors.
Anybodu know....Jack??
I already have the coils, (Chyrsler 300M sticks), I made the mounting plate, (work of art), I have two different power transister from DSMs, 5 and 7 pins style. Now sure which one will be best yet. I just have to buy an AEM C2DI, wire it and install. Then I CAN go back to a larger gap with no ill effects.
I should have it built for around $325 in parts.
I'd like to know where to get electrical connectors that match up to the transistor and the stock Evo coil connectors.
Anybodu know....Jack??
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Originally Posted by NOLIMITMOTORS
whats the difference between bpr7es and bpr7eix ???
Last edited by bigjhoney; Jul 5, 2005 at 08:57 AM.
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Originally Posted by bishiboy
After owning my Evo for over two years now, I'm FINALLY getting the tune down.
I didn't realize how important the plug gap was. I always checked the gap and made sure it was as recommended (.030 depending on were you read).
My idle has always sucked. I blamed the 272 cams. Then I installed a H2O/Alcohol injection kit and cranked the boost to 24psi. I would get a high RPM miss. I was fouling plugs like crazy. Then a guy from a Supra forum recommended dropping the gap down .005.
So I installed a new set of NGK BPR7EIX plugs set at .025. WOW!
Car idles like a dream and pulls smoothly all the way to 8K (24psi with h2o/alc injetcion on) with no miss!
I just thought I would share this, because I know there are others out there that didn't know the importance of plug gap on our cars.
I didn't realize how important the plug gap was. I always checked the gap and made sure it was as recommended (.030 depending on were you read).
My idle has always sucked. I blamed the 272 cams. Then I installed a H2O/Alcohol injection kit and cranked the boost to 24psi. I would get a high RPM miss. I was fouling plugs like crazy. Then a guy from a Supra forum recommended dropping the gap down .005.
So I installed a new set of NGK BPR7EIX plugs set at .025. WOW!
Car idles like a dream and pulls smoothly all the way to 8K (24psi with h2o/alc injetcion on) with no miss!
I just thought I would share this, because I know there are others out there that didn't know the importance of plug gap on our cars.
Last edited by IE Evo; Jul 5, 2005 at 09:03 AM.
#9
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Originally Posted by bishiboy
As a side note. I am building my own coil-on-plug set-up.
I already have the coils, (Chyrsler 300M sticks), I made the mounting plate, (work of art), I have two different power transister from DSMs, 5 and 7 pins style. Now sure which one will be best yet. I just have to buy an AEM C2DI, wire it and install. Then I CAN go back to a larger gap with no ill effects.
I should have it built for around $325 in parts.
I'd like to know where to get electrical connectors that match up to the transistor and the stock Evo coil connectors.
Anybodu know....Jack??
I already have the coils, (Chyrsler 300M sticks), I made the mounting plate, (work of art), I have two different power transister from DSMs, 5 and 7 pins style. Now sure which one will be best yet. I just have to buy an AEM C2DI, wire it and install. Then I CAN go back to a larger gap with no ill effects.
I should have it built for around $325 in parts.
I'd like to know where to get electrical connectors that match up to the transistor and the stock Evo coil connectors.
Anybodu know....Jack??
#10
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I am going off the DSM section on the AEM forums. The guys that built COP set-ups with the C2DI used the transistor (PTU).
I thought about just wiring the ECU in also. I need to find out the ECU voltage output and compare to the C2DI requirements.
I know the guys using the MSD DIS-2 use the PTU from DSM.
As for connectors, I'm going to shop the junkyards for a harness.
Once I finish and test everything, I'll post my results.
I thought about just wiring the ECU in also. I need to find out the ECU voltage output and compare to the C2DI requirements.
I know the guys using the MSD DIS-2 use the PTU from DSM.
As for connectors, I'm going to shop the junkyards for a harness.
Once I finish and test everything, I'll post my results.
#11
bishiboy,
I looked high and low for that 2G service manual. All I came up with was a Chilton and '90 service manual, which both pretty much blow. The Chilton doesn't do anything except tell you how to test the transistor (they use a 1.5V battery, though I doubt that's the V from the ECU?). I really don't know if the 5-pin transistor will work, but that should be pretty easy: 2 in's from ECU (one per coil), 2 outs (one to each coil) and a ground.
I will keep digging for the 2G service manual, but I expected it to be with the others (still packed in boxes from the move 2 years ago). I might have loaned it out and never got it back
The transistors are used to fire the coils (ie. would tell the CDI box when to dump the charge), so unless the C2DI has something to handle that on its own, I don't see any way around wiring the transistor. My buddy was supposed to send me his spare transistor, but I haven't gotten my hands on it yet. I have spare 2G coils from my Talon to "work with", but if things work OK, I'll switch to single COP.
Have you tried PepBoys by any chance? IIRC, they have a lot of GM-style connectors in there...one may be a close match for the pins.
I looked high and low for that 2G service manual. All I came up with was a Chilton and '90 service manual, which both pretty much blow. The Chilton doesn't do anything except tell you how to test the transistor (they use a 1.5V battery, though I doubt that's the V from the ECU?). I really don't know if the 5-pin transistor will work, but that should be pretty easy: 2 in's from ECU (one per coil), 2 outs (one to each coil) and a ground.
I will keep digging for the 2G service manual, but I expected it to be with the others (still packed in boxes from the move 2 years ago). I might have loaned it out and never got it back
The transistors are used to fire the coils (ie. would tell the CDI box when to dump the charge), so unless the C2DI has something to handle that on its own, I don't see any way around wiring the transistor. My buddy was supposed to send me his spare transistor, but I haven't gotten my hands on it yet. I have spare 2G coils from my Talon to "work with", but if things work OK, I'll switch to single COP.
Have you tried PepBoys by any chance? IIRC, they have a lot of GM-style connectors in there...one may be a close match for the pins.
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