That's not true. Most aircraft from before the jet-era used water injection. Almost all American WWII aircraft used it. It was even heavily researched by NASA. (Named NACA at the time.)

However, it is advisable to have a thermostat before the oil-cooler which doesn't open until beyond the boiling point of water to boil out any water that got suspended in the oil. After the oil-cooler, the oil should still be quite cool; it's really just a little extra insurance.

Water/methanol mixtures are highly corrosive, but only in liquid form. Once they evaporate they are no longer able to corrode significantly as electrolysis can no longer take place. However, since they are corrosive in liquid form, you cannot use an aluminum, or even most plastics, tank to store the mixture in. 316L stainless might work. You also need a special pump/nozzle. Aquamist sells nozzles and pumps which can handle many water/meth mixtures.

Water injection has been around a LONG time. When done properly it's quite safe.

Adrian~

 

H2O/MeOH or 100% MeOH can be stored in polyethylene aka milk jugs. Might want to use a heavier gauge container to prevent leaks. You can buy the high pressure pump/accumulator from shurflo, the combo cost about ~$120. Nozzles can be bought from McMaster Carr, get the copper/nickel ones, good as 316SS. You can also get the fittings/solenoid from mcmaster too. alternatively, swagelok fittings are great too but pricey. keep the tank/pump/accumulator/solenoid in the trunk, run a heavy wall PFA(perfluoroalkoxy) tubing thru the passenger compartment into the engine compartment.
btw coolingmist uses a shurflo pump, with their own label pasted over the shurflo label

 

man all i asked for was water injection and im getting alky instead,there are other threads for alky injection

what do you guys think of this
http://www.aquastealth.com/index.asp...PROD&ProdID=88

 

I would really spend some serious amount of time reviewing the control systems and safeguards that each system provides. I haven't done any research since last fall but at that time the Aquamist systems, in particular the 2D, hands down had the best controllers. As others have said, it is pricey but it can be set up to prevent your motor from grenading should you run out of water, a pump fails or a nozzle clogs. Basically it can trigger a relay to kill boost or switch maps if any failure condition should arise.

Also the Aquamist systems will scale the water output to injector duty cycle so that you are always pumping the same ratio of water to fuel, regardless of throttle position or boost level.

 

With water inj, how much of a difference and/or hp/tq gain will there be, using a stock turbo? Any ideas anyone?

 

It's really going to vary from motor to motor depending on how much more timing advance you can run and how much boost you think you can get away with. My goal with WI is to be able to run 24-25psi on pump versus a more "normal" 20-21psi.

AMS was doing some dyno tuning with a 2.3 stroker running a GT35R. At 20psi the car was putting down 430whp/400ft-lbs. By running water injection and turning the wick up to 24psi, it was putting down 501whp/430ft-lbs.

 

so far theyre the only kit thats showing a strong potential compared to the other kits maybe i can ask my buddy to buy it for me there so i dont have to deal with overseas transaction