ACT after break in question
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From: Oak Creek, WI
ACT after break in question
Well I put about 600 miles on the clutch for break in driving out of boost. Then last night i try to do a small launch and the clutch slipped real bad, the stocker never slipped that bad. Is there any type of adjustment I can do? Im wondering if I take the restrictior out of it will help, I dont do much drag racing so Im not too worried about the t-case giving out on me. Any other suggestions.
If it is slipping where the stocker wasn't then something is seriously wrong. Definitely check adjustment at the pedal assembly to make sure there is adequate free play on the master cylinder rod. Where is the release point at? Is it near the top of the pedal stroke? If so, it shouldn't be. Let me know what you find. Removing the restrictor will help prevent slippage, but it puts the driver in control of the engagment, so be careful not to break parts. Personally that's what I would do anyway, but I am afraid to pay the piper when I screw up due to stupid driving.
Originally Posted by ACTman
Where is the release point at? Is it near the top of the pedal stroke? If so, it shouldn't be.
Look for the ACT to be much grabbier than stock, especially in the first 1000 miles or so. I like my ACT. Pedal pressure is a little heavier, but you only really notice it the first couple of days. Make sure you have a place that knows what the heck they're doing, though. I've read many people having problems after a clutch install and I can only attribute it to the place that put it in.
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From: Oak Creek, WI
Originally Posted by ACTman
If it is slipping where the stocker wasn't then something is seriously wrong. Definitely check adjustment at the pedal assembly to make sure there is adequate free play on the master cylinder rod. Where is the release point at? Is it near the top of the pedal stroke? If so, it shouldn't be. Let me know what you find. Removing the restrictor will help prevent slippage, but it puts the driver in control of the engagment, so be careful not to break parts. Personally that's what I would do anyway, but I am afraid to pay the piper when I screw up due to stupid driving.
Ahhhhhh, that makes sense. I never thought of that. So what your trying to say is that the clutch isn't fully engaged even with the pedal out? The clutch does start to grab about 3/4 of the way up, meaning towards the top of the pedal travel it seemed a lot higher than what the stocker was. Going outside right now to do this, I'll report back what I find.
I will be taking the restrictor out, I don't drag race the car. Just have to wait for the SS line to come in.
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Originally Posted by dryad001
UPDATE-
The adjustment did work, grabs about an 1" off of the floor.
The adjustment did work, grabs about an 1" off of the floor.
Originally Posted by ACTman
I would recommend raising it just a bit, but obviously not preloaded. The reason is that for some reason the EVO shifts better with the engagment point higher than what I would consider normal. On most cars it doesn't matter as much.
I have the ACT clutch and have problem quick shifting at high rpm. Tried adjusting the rod already but no luck. Not sure if I adjust it too much. Any ideas? Is my synchros bad?
Thanks,
Thread Starter
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From: Oak Creek, WI
Originally Posted by ACTman
I would recommend raising it just a bit, but obviously not preloaded. The reason is that for some reason the EVO shifts better with the engagment point higher than what I would consider normal. On most cars it doesn't matter as much.
It works great, get quite a bit of wheel spin now, no clutch smell. This clutch grabs great now. I never had a problem shifting at high rpms, you really cant be a sissy when shifting these trannys. They are very notchy trannys, kinda feels like a dogbox.
dryadd01,
please elaborate on the 'adjustment' for us noobs. I want to improve the feel of my Mitsu'd 'warranty proofed' tranny.
So remove the restrictor by replacing the line?
Remove the restrictor that is in the master cylinder?
Rod adjustment, how do I go about this?
please elaborate on the 'adjustment' for us noobs. I want to improve the feel of my Mitsu'd 'warranty proofed' tranny.
So remove the restrictor by replacing the line?
Remove the restrictor that is in the master cylinder?
Rod adjustment, how do I go about this?
Clutch pedal adjustment info:
http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tech_id=28
Braided Clutch Line Install / Restrictor Removal:
http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php...=3_4&tech_id=4
http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tech_id=28
Braided Clutch Line Install / Restrictor Removal:
http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php...=3_4&tech_id=4
Originally Posted by GOKOU
I have the ACT clutch and have problem quick shifting at high rpm. Tried adjusting the rod already but no luck. Not sure if I adjust it too much. Any ideas? Is my synchros bad?
Thanks,
Thanks,
Improper release bearing instalation: If the bearing is not "clicked" in all the way it will not pull uniformly and it takes more travel.
Aluminum flywheel: On the inferior ones, the steel insert warps and lifts between the bolts preventing complete disengagment.
Increased torsional vibrations (rotational pulses): Hard to explain but I will give it a shot. With extraordinarilly high boost, a super light flywheel or aftermarket front dampener, torsional vibrations increase which can try and buckle the drivestraps of the pressure plate. This causes the casting to move toward the disc when the clutch is supposed to be disengaged.
Drop damage to the pressure plate: If the pressure plate was dropped really hard, the straps become damaged (either buckled or bent) and the pressure plate will not lift from the disc correctly. This could even happen during shipment. One time we had a box of 5 pressure plates that obviously was dropped before we got it because all 5 clutches had bent straps.
Originally Posted by ACTman
There are several causes on the EVO.
Improper release bearing instalation: If the bearing is not "clicked" in all the way it will not pull uniformly and it takes more travel.
Aluminum flywheel: On the inferior ones, the steel insert warps and lifts between the bolts preventing complete disengagment.
Increased torsional vibrations (rotational pulses): Hard to explain but I will give it a shot. With extraordinarilly high boost, a super light flywheel or aftermarket front dampener, torsional vibrations increase which can try and buckle the drivestraps of the pressure plate. This causes the casting to move toward the disc when the clutch is supposed to be disengaged.
Drop damage to the pressure plate: If the pressure plate was dropped really hard, the straps become damaged (either buckled or bent) and the pressure plate will not lift from the disc correctly. This could even happen during shipment. One time we had a box of 5 pressure plates that obviously was dropped before we got it because all 5 clutches had bent straps.
Improper release bearing instalation: If the bearing is not "clicked" in all the way it will not pull uniformly and it takes more travel.
Aluminum flywheel: On the inferior ones, the steel insert warps and lifts between the bolts preventing complete disengagment.
Increased torsional vibrations (rotational pulses): Hard to explain but I will give it a shot. With extraordinarilly high boost, a super light flywheel or aftermarket front dampener, torsional vibrations increase which can try and buckle the drivestraps of the pressure plate. This causes the casting to move toward the disc when the clutch is supposed to be disengaged.
Drop damage to the pressure plate: If the pressure plate was dropped really hard, the straps become damaged (either buckled or bent) and the pressure plate will not lift from the disc correctly. This could even happen during shipment. One time we had a box of 5 pressure plates that obviously was dropped before we got it because all 5 clutches had bent straps.
Thanks for the information. I bought the ACT clutch and had a friend of a friend install it so not sure if release bearing was install properly. I would hope it did. Re-used the stock flywheel but resurfaced it.
Just problems quick shifting at high rpm. Under normal driving it goes fine.


